The official "Stray Current II" thread. '07 260DA

Lazy Daze · Dec 23, 2019

FYI, injectors can be tested/serviced/rebuilt. Most injection shops charge about $20 per injector. You probably have one around you, but if not, there's a place here in Allentown that I have used many times - Metro Fuel Injection. Will be as good as, or better than, new.

Stray Current · Dec 23, 2019

Lazy Daze said:
FYI, injectors can be tested/serviced/rebuilt. Most injection shops charge about $20 per injector. You probably have one around you, but if not, there's a place here in Allentown that I have used many times - Metro Fuel Injection. Will be as good as, or better than, new.

Allentown PA? Not too far at all.

I think my cost on a new one is under $70. Definitely going to get the old one rebuilt as a spare though, they're kind of known to be a little finnicky.

Stray Current · Dec 26, 2019

Dug a little deeper into the genset today. I had to cobble together a few parts from the plumbing supply and Napa to get a fuel pressure tester on the Schrader.

Lift pump helped some, but the pressure is still low and slow to build. When the stove burner (1.1kW) and space heater (.75kW) was turned on the pressure just about flatlined.

Needs a fuel cooler module. Sadly I think that's still a big dollar hit even at my dealer price. Boats...

I did take a stab at my fairing block for my hailer speaker, its not great but life seal makes it what it ain't...

Time to start figuring for the totalscan transducer tomorrow.

Between the drive, tabs, genset pickup, engine pickup, strakes, and ac pickup there is not a lot of real estate on the transom with clean water.

Definitely looking for any input on that. Considering possibly replacing the thru-hull smartcraft ducer with a unit that will be compatible with Simrad bottom imaging.

Lazy Daze · Dec 26, 2019

I'd say that that fairing block looks pretty darned good. For something you won't really see, I think it looks absolutely great!

It's OK to put the transducer on the lifting strake flat (horizontal surface), if you need to, fyi. Just keep it away from the inboard and outboard "edges" of the strake.

Stray Current · Dec 28, 2019

Yesterday was a pretty productive day, got just about everything with the NMEA2K, Ethernet, and Simnet systems roughed into the dash (no small feat working through tiny holes!). Mounted and connected my flood light controller, Got my secondary fuse blocks and ground buss tied in, and even set the go12 up temporarily and tested the radar! I also got the Livorsi Mercmonitor harness modified and roughed in, and did a preliminary test with the ignition powered up. Apparently this needs to be programmed by a dealer. Not sure if any Mercruiser dealer can do it, or if I need a Livorsi dealer specifically, but I’ll find out Monday.

I have flounder pounder making a second custom key switch panel to accommodate the larger mercmonitor where the stereo remote used to go. they’re also making a square black stardust panel to cover the old ns100 speaker and microphone plug hole.

Still debating on location and type of transducer. Between equipment, strakes, and through hulls on the bottom, clean water is scarce at the transom.

Also, if anyone would like to share a powerful replacement for the duck horn, or prime location to mount dual trumpets I’d be interested in your input. I have a NIB ongaro dual stainless trumpet like on my previous boat. It was excellent and powerful but I just can’t seem to come up with a good mounting location.

Finally, if you think the fuse panels with the equipment tied in is ugly you're absolutely right.

Next season or the season after the console is coming off for some sliding door repair and new tracks. I'll make everything pretty and electrician OCD worthy at that time.

But for now, that sh** is electrically solid, ship it!

pyro · Jan 11, 2020

I may do a similar type of mounting block on an irregular curved surface. I've been thinking about putting down wax paper, then a single layer of fiberglass cloth soaked in resin. Press it down and let it dry. It can be your base layer to make the rest of the block out of fiberglass. Never tried it, but I think it would work.

DWABoat · Jan 11, 2020

When you first made the clay mold, it got me to thinking about fiberglass. Of course, the starboard idea is great for that.

If you want to use fiberglass instead, I would try making a open-top box frame from thin luan panels. They are easy to shave to fit the precise contour. Use small 90 degree angle hardware to hold them together at the corners. When the box is fit properly, line the inside with wax paper then multiple layers fiberglass cloth saturated with resin. Leave it open on the bottom. When cured, remove the wood and fit a top plate of luan saturated and layered in fiberglass. Tab over the sides to hold in place. When cured, sand smooth and coat with a pretty layer of white gel coat. Mount and wire in. Done. Whole mount could likely be done for less than $30 and would be very light but strong. Of course, dropping off the clay mold and picking up the starboard mount later is the best way!!

Stray Current · Jan 14, 2020

Not too much in the way of progress since my last post. Got it shrink wrapped so I could continue working somewhat out of the weather. Unfortunately the only place to put the door with the hatch open is 10’ off the ground!

Got the radio cut in and wired up, and discovered that my hailer will be essentially usesless from feedback. Way worse than my center console I sold. Automatic fog signal will still be a useful function though.

I installed a few of the new dash panels and got the Livorsi mercmonitor wired up. I need to get it programmed

the generator fuel pump/cooler module and injector have been ordered. I had the wrap cut to let the exhaust out, so hopefully with a few co detectors and a ducted blower I’ll be able to get a good test run on that shortly

Stray Current · Jan 21, 2020

Freshened up the compass with some mother's back-to-black and see red led lights for reduced glare.

Stray Current · Jan 25, 2020

I finally got my Mercruiser tech in to program the ECM to work with the Livorsi gauge. Pretty cool seeing all the data up on the screen. Way more information than my Yamaha would display on my Simrad on my center console

Stray Current · Feb 2, 2020

Got the upper dash all wrapped up, permanently installed and wired today. Still have a black stardust panel I need to install over the old ns100 radio cutout

once that’s done I have some fusion audio components and hoses to get started on.

Little teaser for next winter’s projects

vector4 · Feb 3, 2020

Stray Current said:
View attachment 77914 View attachment 77915 Unfortunately, we found out that the cabin was less than watertight in the first particularly nasty rainstorm after we bought it. 2 of the cabin portlights needed to be re-bedded, as well as the drain fitting for the cabin door well.

Resealed all 4 portholes. All watertight now.

Don't use 5200 for this! EVER!

What did you use to rebed the portholes?

Stray Current · Feb 3, 2020

vector4 said:
What did you use to rebed the portholes?

I can’t remember now if it was life caulk or life seal, but either one is appropriate. I think it was life caulk.

Stray Current · Feb 18, 2020

A little more progress. 4 new fusion 6.5” 2 way speakers, each on its own channel instead of sharing. Tied into the mfd for control from the helm, and with Sirius radio.

I added a small fusion zone amp and made the existing cabin speakers zone 3. Sounds pretty damn good for powered from the head unit with no sub yet.

I’ll be finalizing the wiring and pulling the feeders for the sub this weekend. Torn between a bazooka tube down by the ac unit or a jbl powered 10” sub in the cockpit where there is a molded spot.

unfortunately it would seem my genset fuel module is on a national back order, and with the Viral situation in China shipments are on an indefinite hold.

Stray Current · Feb 27, 2020

Got my fuel module and injector. All primed up

Stray Current · Mar 1, 2020

Got my sub and amp cut in and wired up. I went with a free air sub since it’s a fairly large unsealed box. All dialed in on the settings and it sounds great for what it is. It’s tied to the cockpit zone, so I can shut them and the sub off in the head unit if I just want some quiet music using only the arch zone. I mounted the amp on an access panel so it can be easily removed to access the setting knobs.

I use a carbide tile cutting bit in the roto zip for cutting thicker glass. The oscillating tool works great for thinner stuff like the dash. A shop vac with a fine dust collection bag and hepa filter held close makes the whole process much more pleasant. Very happy with the outcome. Big sound on a small budget.

Next up will be the replacement hoses as I’m still waiting for my 3/8npt x 1/2barb brass fittings for the fuel cooler water hoses.

getting closer!

once that’s all done, I have some seablaze2 lights, drive shower, new bootstripe tape, and a transducer to install. At that point it gets a full compound and detail (outsourcing), new canvas from GLBT installed, bottom paint, outdrive paint, and anodes. I’ll also be replacing the 27s with twin group 31 deep cycle batteries.

I’ll need to descale and clean the freshwater system as well, I guess there was hard water where the previous owner was docked, but I’m sure I’ll get to that much later

I just got my props back from reconditioning, what are you all using for anti fouling on ss props?

Stray Current · Mar 13, 2020

Got my module installed and thankfully it hot restarts and carries load properly now!

I had my water heater, electric stove, space heater, and microwave running for approximately an hour and it restarted and continued without issue many times.

I unplugged the high pressure pump and it reverted back to the original symptoms, so I only had lift pump previously.

Hoses next! Getting closer!

Stray Current · Mar 14, 2020

New exhaust hoses and clamps complete. My god what a miserable experience working on these! I was the arthritic contortionist today but they’re done. Hardest part was getting the old hoses off the barbs.
Water hoses tomorrow should be much easier

Stray Current · Mar 16, 2020

Raw hoses complete

Stray Current · Mar 29, 2020

In spite of my previous, and now deleted post, I’m pushing forward with the boat regardless of the economic uncertainty. Fortunately I’m what would be considered “essential personnel” for the time being and emergency power generation is just as busy as ever.

Finished up a few odds and ends today. I replaced all the stainless clamps on the exhaust boots since 2 were cracked. Cut out a dozen bad splices at the blower, sump, and bilge pumps and replaced them with proper heat shrink crimps. I also remounted the auxiliary bilge pump and float under the step that were loose.

Now I’m trying to figure out replacement o-rings for my power steering hoses. They’re weeping hydraulic fluid. I assume that they were damaged when the transom assembly was changed. Would anyone have an o ring number or size for these?

Also, would anyone know why my gallons used creeps up with the key on, engine off? Engine has not run since this gauge was installed, but it uses the factory smartcraft metering.

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