Caulk at bottom of windshield 2010 450

Richey rich

Richey rich

Active Member
Sep 23, 2012
393
Lake St Clair
Boat Info
2010 Sea Ray 450 SunDancer
Engines
Twin 480 Cummins w/Zeus pods
Hey Guys. Looking to replace all the caulk on the exterior of the boat. Normal caulk lines aren’t a big deal but around the base of the windshield on my 2010 450 there is a really big caulk line... I’d say it’s bigger than 1/2 inch but smaller than 3/4 inch. Any recommendations on what to use so that it doesn’t look like crap? I’ve just never seen that big of a caulk line.
Thanks
 
I have used something like this. I use painters tape above and below the joint, caulk then smooth with the tool
71RsWLK-FFL_1024x1024.jpg
 
Are you using
Blueone said:
I have used something like this. I use painters tape above and below the joint, caulk then smooth with the tool
View attachment 99318
Click to expand...
4200 for something like that though? Heard something about the gasses in it because it’s such a big gab will cause bubbles a day after you do it?
 
Richey rich said:
Are you using

4200 for something like that though? Heard something about the gasses in it because it’s such a big gab will cause bubbles a day after you do it?
Click to expand...

I use Seal Bond 105
 
Don't use 4200 - wrong application for that stuff. Use a quality "sealant" only, not an adhesive sealant. Plus, it's not very UV resistant.

That's a HUGE gap. Dig some out and see what's behind it... I'm curious...

Definitely put some tape down - the little time it takes to mask is well made up for in cleanup. A thumb could work... the tool that Blue shows is a good idea, too. You can get those at HD or Lowes.
 
@Lazy Daze
the gap at the bottom of our windshields between the bottom of the glass and the deck is definitely wide.
Without measuring i would say 3/4 of an inch.
 
Shaps said:
@Lazy Daze
the gap at the bottom of our windshields between the bottom of the glass and the deck is definitely wide.
Without measuring i would say 3/4 of an inch.
Click to expand...
Never having worked on one, before, I was curious if it was meant to be caulked? Or is it a drain channel that a previous owner mistakenly caulked?
 
Lazy Daze said:
Never having worked on one, before, I was curious if it was meant to be caulked? Or is it a drain channel that a previous owner mistakenly caulked?
Click to expand...


No I’ve seen several of same boat and it is definitely some type of “caulk” on all of them. Not the normal channel with black trim piece.
 
Lazy Daze said:
Never having worked on one, before, I was curious if it was meant to be caulked? Or is it a drain channel that a previous owner mistakenly caulked?
Click to expand...

Agreed. It is definitely designed to be caulked
 
@Richey rich
I got to the sikaflex from the parts manual fwiw.
I noted that they had both the 295 uv and the 291

Edit:
Have you given a lot of thought on how to remove the original caulk?
 
Richey rich said:
Are you using

4200 for something like that though? Heard something about the gasses in it because it’s such a big gab will cause bubbles a day after you do it?
Click to expand...
No don't use 4200... I am pretty sure I used a Sika product ..it was a few years ago now
 
Shaps said:
@Richey rich
I got to the sikaflex from the parts manual fwiw.
I noted that they had both the 295 uv and the 291

Edit:
Have you given a lot of thought on how to remove the original caulk?
Click to expand...

I have thought about it but have not came up with any great ideals. If anyone has something that has worked for them I welcome the advice!
 
To remove the old caulk, the easiest way I have found (although I'm sure there are other ways) is to use a plastic razor blade. You slide it right along the top and bottom edge, cutting a deep "V" groove, then pull the old stuff out. You don't have to go super deep and get everything out. Just enough so there's some room for the new stuff. You also come back and slide the blade a very shallow angle to the work surface to scrape off any "thin" residue remaining.

Oh, OK, so this is in lieu of the black rubber/foam? I was imagining this "gap" between the boat and the bottom of the windshield frame - as if the frame was sitting 3/4" above the fiberglass.

Tip... if you end up pulling too much caulk out and there's a large area to fill, don't try to fill the whole thing with caulk. Instead, stuff something in there - like foam gasketing used to seal doors/windows - to take up most of the space. But, again, with never seeing one in person, maybe the area is shallow so it won't matter.
 
Mine and the others I have seen have white caulk along the bottom and black on the sides and between the panels
 
I have use the 3M 4000 white caulk on both my 320 & 420DAs, this has some UV protectant in it and has worked well for me. On both boats I removed the old caulk and cleaned with Acetone, the window frame was no more than a 1/4” off the fiberglass, with the amount of caulk you mentioned, sounds li,e they just caulked over the old.
My seam is about 3/8”, I would rather see the stainless frame than a big seam of caulk.
 
J.Wilt said:
I have use the 3M 4000 white caulk on both my 320 & 420DAs, this has some UV protectant in it and has worked well for me. On both boats I removed the old caulk and cleaned with Acetone, the window frame was no more than a 1/4” off the fiberglass, with the amount of caulk you mentioned, sounds li,e they just caulked over the old.
My seam is about 3/8”, I would rather see the stainless frame than a big seam of caulk.
Click to expand...

This is the same 3/4” gap on all the newer rays I’ve seen that have a full glass windshield from the deck to the hardtop. I agree on my other boats with “half “windshields there has been a much smaller seam
 
Richey rich said:
This is the same 3/4” gap on all the newer rays I’ve seen that have a full glass windshield from the deck to the hardtop. I agree on my other boats with “half “windshields there has been a much smaller seam
Click to expand...
Agreed here
 
Ah, now I see what you guys are talking about with the frameless glass (no external frame visible). Thanks for the pic and the description. Basically, the glass is glued to the frame, correct? My "guess" is that the reason for the larger gap is to protect against possible flexing of the boat and breaking the glass... although I find it hard to believe that it would flex THAT much. Better safe than sorry, I guess! Regardless, it is what it is.

There could be a spot at either end that could allow a little water to trickle in without sealing that gap but the window, itself, should be solidly sealed. In other words, don't go overboard with the resealing process - dig a little bit out, then apply new. Dig out just enough to get a decent thickness of new stuff for better adhesion.
 
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