185 Sport - Second Bilge Pump Selection

So in theory, if you had a huge wave break over the bow swamping the boat just after the pump went through its check cycle, it would be 2-1/2 minutes before it cycled again and finding water would begin pumping. That becomes a long 2-1/2 minutes at that point.

I can definitely see the value of having it on a manual switch also.
 
Seems as though cycling that often would shorten the life of the pump itself. I think I'd rather have a real float switch which just kicks on when enough water is there to run the pump.
 
Okay, Rule has 3 series of pumps available. First is the non-automatic - you need a separate float switch to activate the pump automatically in the bilge.

Second is the Rule-mate series - the float switch is built in to the pump itself. When water gets 2-1/2" above the bottom of the strainer, it turns on.

Third is the fully automatic. If there is 3/4" or less of water in the bilge, the pump cycles trying to determine resistance of water against the impeller -1/2 second on, 2-1/2 minutes off, 1/2 second on, 2-1/2 minutes off, etc. If it senses 1-1/2" or more of water, it goes on fully.

I can see the benefit of having a fully automatic pump where its computer chip controlled and not off of a float; I think it would be good piece of mind for a boat continuously in the water.

But I guess for a trailer boat the Rule-mate is perfectly adequate. You don't need to worry about the pump cycling when the boat is out of the water draining the battery.

While I realize you can put a switch on a fully automatic pump, it kind of defeats the purpose of it being fully automatic.
 
rktktpaul said:
But I guess for a trailer boat the Rule-mate is perfectly adequate. You don't need to worry about the pump cycling when the boat is out of the water draining the battery.
Click to expand...

I'm a bit confused by this statement. My boat came from the factory with the Rule-Mate (Fully Automatic) pump and it cycles constantly...whether the boat is on or off. I've watched it pump rain water out of my boat sitting in the driveway. The only way around this would be to wire it up to a switched power source when you install it.

Edit:
Hmmm, I think I mis-read your post. Are you saying you'll get one with a float?

Edit #2:
Ok, I have the "Rule - Automatic" not the Rule-Mate. I give up...just ignore this post, I understand what you are saying now.
 
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Guys, this is a second bilge pump. If Mark gets swamped, he'll turn the first pump on instantly (if it's float doesnt kick on)
 
I guess I don't know my boat as well as I thought I did. I just took another look in the bilge and noticed a Rule-A-Matic float switch in there...that actually makes me feel a little better.
 
Brad, you had me wondering there for a minute about the constant cycling. That would eventually drain the battery over a stretch of time. I do have one of those automatic ~1800gph pumps in my basement as a backup to my sump pump. It does cycle every 2-3 minutes as stated. The pump I am going with, Rule-Mate 1100 has the built in float switch (as Paul clarified). My primary pump has a float switch and is an Attwood. I think they are a less expensive alternative. Regardless, I dont take chances and wanted a second pump. Murphy lives on boats.... :)
 
I really want to add a second pump but after checking it out I'd have to rip half of my boat apart to add one in there. Good luck with your install.
 
I ended up doing part of the install yesterday afteroon. I sawed a hole in the side of the boat!!! The outlet was a Stainless Attwood 1 1/8" fitting. The hole saw I used was 1.5"
The fact I drilled a hole in my own boat was somewhat disturbing.....LOL. The procedure so far:

1) Find a suitable location for the outlet. In my case, there was room just aft of the original SS fitting on the Stbd side (existing fitting is about 1.5 feet forward from the transom). There seemed to be some additional chopped mat in that general area and seemed thicker than the rest of the immediate area further forward of the outlet. So I went with it... The second hole centerline was exactly 4.5" from the centerline of the original. That gave me room between them to allow for the existing vented loop. Yes, it has a loop in the hose to avoid water injestion when the boat is heavily loaded. Nice touch i think.

2) I masked off the area with blue tape and marked the area to be cut with a sharpie to get a centerline for the hole.

3) Drilled a smaller pilot hole all of the way thru to insure I wasnt pulling a Homer Simpson (i.e. DOH!!!). Once that was all OK.....

4) Started drilling into hull about 1/4 of the way thru from the outside.

5) I then went inside and cut into the hull from there about 1/4 of the way to insure a clean cut and no shearing off of the chopped strand when i finally cut the entire hole.

6) Finished up on the outside again going all the way thru.... The hull is 7/16" thick for those who care. No coring, just fiberglass it seems.

7) Got some quick set epoxy and applied to exposed glass with a small kids paint brush....sorry kids!!! Dad needs it more than you do right now. After it was set I could install the thru hull itself.

8) Installed thru hull by creating a bead of pure 100% silicone (rated for marine use) around the outside fitting and another on the inside surface of the bilge (just around the hole). Apply a lot of it and as it tightens, it will ooze out.

9) Tighten down fitting and interior nut. This will take 2 people since someone has to bilge dive, the other has to hold the fitting. This turned out to be a pain to find something to go on the inside of the fitting that would catch on the tabs. I used a handle of a wire crimper (the cushioned end).

10) Clean up the excess silicone....

Next will be the mounting of the pump as soon as the side mount bracket arrives. We'll see how that works out.
 
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LOL. Yeah Brad, that and getting root canal are right up there in my book. :)
 
Mark
Eric always gives me crap when I drill holes in my boat. I have no problem with it. Just used to drilling, I guess!
 
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