1998 185 Bow Rider

D

Donut1

New Member
Feb 9, 2017
7
Columbus
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I have tried searching and read some things, but wanted to post to gather more specific information...

I am a first time boat buyer and not too experienced at looking at boats. I am looking at a 1998 185 Bow Rider this weekend and want your guys input on it and also some common things to look for, watch out for.

It is cold in Ohio, so unfortunately I cannot test drive the boat. I want to see ways around that to make sure the boat is good to go. The pictures make the interior and exterior appear very well taken care of and its always been stored inside during the winter and on a lift during the summer with a canopy cover.

The boat has had 3 owners and the current owner has owned it since 2010. It comes with a bimini top, cockpit and full cover and a single axle trailer with newer tires.

It is currently on sale for $6,900.

Any advise and recommendations are greatly appreciated in advance!

https://columbus.craigslist.org/boa/5975025075.html

Thanks,
Alex

00D0D_9S4QY1RL8PF_600x450.jpg00D0D_7BmZFkQPCbM_600x450.jpg
 
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I have a 1999 of the same boat and same engine. Mine has the sunpad with bucket seat configuration. Same deal with mine, it is dry stored indoors and previously was on a lift at our house. I bought it in 2006 with 120hrs, at 550hrs now. Boat engine have been pretty much problem free, only work is what I would consider maintenance for a boat that age. I've replaced my bellows (lasted 15yrs) and had to rebuilt the carburetor and replace the fuel lines (due to using ethanol fuel). These boats / motors are solid there just is not much to go wrong. Simple carburetor motor, Alpha I drive is a proven package - just check that the water pump and bellows maintenance has been done. There is very little wood used in their construction, some in the transom I think and a few areas inside, but not the floors, hull or stringers. Regarding the motor, I don't see where the hours are noted. The one think to look for that is somewhat of an issue with the GM 4.3 is oil leaks around the timing cover. This one looks clean in the picturs. I would insist on it being run before I would buy it - it takes 15min to winterize it again. That boat should turn 4600-4800rpm at WOT and run around 45mph. I

It's a good boat -- good luck.
 
Speaking from experience I would get an engine and hull survey. My experience(I did not get surveys ) cost me $1,800. You can pay $500 - $800 for surveys now or THOUSANDS later.

The boat looks like it is in great condition, so was mine. I bought mine from a "reputable" dealer. Mine had 280 hours and came with a 30 day warranty. Less than 10 days after warranty, the stern drive blew. Dealer said oh well, in other words, you're ship out of luck!
 
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I wouldn't worry about driving it as much as seeing it run before purchasing the boat. If you can't hear it run due to winterization I'd wait until spring to buy when you can put it in the water or start it on the muff's. Looks like it was run over some rough bottom and had the skeg busted off. I can understand a little bit of paint being worn off the skeg but there's paint missing from the lower unit gear housing. Maybe that's normal for Ohio boating :grin:
 
It's gonna be warm again this weekend, have the owner do a sea trial with you and put it through the paces. I agree, don't buy it without running it. I also agree that a survey is a good idea.
 
Thanks for the help everyone, much appreciated. I tried looking for surveyors but did not have much luck finding anyone near where I am at.

Do they usually come to the location, or do I need to go to them? It looks like the closest one is 40 miles/50 minutes away.

I am going to have him run it for me and tell him I will pay to have it re-winterized if it doesnt work out. If he is not willing to run it, then that will throw up a flag.

Does anyone else have advice for buying a boat in the winter time?
 
It's better to run it in the water under load, if possible. In a small boat like this, the most important thing to survey is the propulsion. The rest is probably going to be okay. Just turn on and off all the switches, make sure everything works. Look for signs of neglect, soft spots, water stains.
 
The skeg was definitely replaced. Not a deal breaker by any means, but I'd ask about it. It might open up the conversation and you may get more history on the boat. How'd it break off? Did you hit a rock? Was any other damage done? Act like that's a concern of yours and use it to try to get some more money off. :)

The pics look great, but remember, it's nearly a 20 year old boat. There's going to be things wrong with it. And just like buying a used car, service history records can be very valuable.
 
The silver part you see in the picture has been bolted on to the lower unit to replace the original that has been broken off. Notice the scuffed paint a little higher up the skeg to the gear housing.
 
I have a 2007 185 with the 4.3 carburetor version. I personally wouldn't worry about the stainless steel skeg guard. I boat on Lake Champlain which has many areas where you can bump the skeg if you are not alert. I can't imagine going 20 years without needing a skeg guard. I dinged my skeg up pretty good and installed the SS skeg guard which is much stronger than the original.

I agree with the others that you should test drive the boat in the water to make sure the engine and stern drive are OK, as this will be where big dollars might be needed if something is wrong.
 
Peter Reed said:
I have a 2007 185 with the 4.3 carburetor version. I personally wouldn't worry about the stainless steel skeg guard. I boat on Lake Champlain which has many areas where you can bump the skeg if you are not alert. I can't imagine going 20 years without needing a skeg guard. I dinged my skeg up pretty good and installed the SS skeg guard which is much stronger than the original.

I agree with the others that you should test drive the boat in the water to make sure the engine and stern drive are OK, as this will be where big dollars might be needed if something is wrong.
Click to expand...

The boat does not have a skeg guard. A skeg was bolted on. Question is, any damage done to prop? Was the stainless steel prop on when damage occurred? If stainless steel with no give like an aluminum one, there could be internal damage in the sterndrive.

IMG_3373.jpg
 
Thanks for this. I'll definitely ask about it.

Another question - what should I look for in a trailer?
 
I went and looked at the boat today and it looked very nice like the pictures. Everything was solid and no signs/smell of rotting. All gauges and electronics worked. He turned it on for me and it ran and sounded fine.

I did notice some oil specks in the engine area. I took a picture. Has anyone seen this before and know what could cause it? The oil on the dipstick was clear and translucent like it was brand new. Is it something to stay away from?

Thanks!
Alex

Im not able to post picture. Still figuring it out. I have a link to my photobucket, if you want to take a look at what I saw.

http://s787.photobucket.com/user/donut1240/library/Boat?sort=3&page=1
 
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