210 SD Battery Switch

Steve Craig

Steve Craig

Member
Jul 26, 2011
453
Saint John, N.B.
Boat Info
'07 260 Sundeck
Engines
6.2l & Bravo III / Corsa
Like to install a battery switch in mine over the Winter. Believe they were a factory option but no images in the parts manual.

Can anyone tell me where they were mounted ?


Thank You.
 
Usually under aft, corner seat. But put it anywhere you want that makes the most sense for you. The shorter the battery cables, the better though.
 
Hi Dennis,
Will do.
I'll know more when I have the switch in hand but believe I'll be cutting a +/- 3" round hole to mount it ?

Thanks for the reply.
 
It depends on which style you prefer, Steve. You can get flush mount or surface mount. Totally personal preference and how you prefer to run the cables. Take a look in the boat and try visualize everything the way you want it to be. Then just build what you see in your head. Don't skimp on cable or connector quality - do it once and do it right.
 
Dennis,
Looking at this one or something similar.
http://www.bluesea.com/products/9001e/e-Series_Selector_Battery_Switch

Looks like about a 4/0 existing cable from the battery bank to the starter. I can easily make up some short cable lengths from each battery to the switch.
What size cables have you seen/used for for the short cables.
Full current draw for the starter will be going through the cable, I'm thinking I'll need a 4/0 cable for the starter side & a #4 for the instrument/accessory side.

Another question:
Both current batteries are a deep cycle variety. One is on the way out & I dropped them off for load testing today.
Thinking of getting a new pair. One will be of the deep cycle variety for the radio while the other will be a high cranking variety.
Am I over thinking this ?
The 5.7 starts instantly everytime, once the starter is turning over

Cheers,
 
Last edited:
(1) deep cycle and (1) starter = good idea.
 
Hi Dennis,
Batteries back from load testing, both had excellent results. Both were fully charged at time of testing.

Thinking 1 of the 2 has an issue. Last two trips out I got the boat into the water only to have batteries in a drained state. Believe 1 bad one is dragging the 2nd with it as they are in parallel. I've become really efficient in taking the battery out of the truck & down to the wharf. Boost the boat & re-install battery in truck. The batteries behaved differently on the charger over last Winter which had me thinking something was up. Once a month I would place them under charge. Battery 1 would run 4-6 hours & shut off the charger. Battery 2 would run on forever, it would never get to the point where the charger was shut down.

Engine running I can see 13.5 - 13.7 volts across the terminals which eliminates the alternator.

Spent a couple hours last night with an in-line DC ammeter, batteries showing 12.8V.

#2 conductor leaving the + post to the starter: 0 amps
#10 leaving the + on the starter to the helm fuse panel via a 50A breaker mounted on the engine: 0 amps.
#10 leaving the + post to the stereo amp via a separate fuse: 0 amps
#12 leaving the + post to the bilge pump via a separate fuse: 0 amps.
#12 leaving the + post to the stereo memory via separate fuse: 0.003 amp which is what I'd expect to see.

I isolated the batteries from any loads & from each other. I'll be checking & recording voltage drops over the next 2-3 days.
Hopefully it's as simple as a bad cell, electrical gremlins can be a royal treat to diagnose.

This all started recently after I had the engine starter changed. Once batteries are full everything behaves normally. Believe a leak/crossed wires at the starter would show as a self cranking or a no crank issue.

Anything else you can think of ?

Cheers,
 
Last edited:
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