300 Sundancer questions.

Terri, mine run right at 157 to 160, even at idle. I'm not sure if the 2002 Mags used hotter T stats or not... Get a Raytek IR thermometer, every boater should have one on board, shoot your thermostat housings, manifolds, and risers to get the actual temps of your engines at those locations.
 
Terri, the good thing is that you seem very knowledgeable in the boating subject and are able to work on it! :smt038

My boat surveyor missed several things. He didn't check the genset. I found out because when I took delivery, it was not working. Several gages were not working. Drive trim does not go all way up on starboard side, have to use trailer switch to bring them both up at the same level. Worst was that we went for our first trip in the lake and came back when dark, just to find out that we had no nav lights at all. I was super pissed.

I just don't have time for it. Busy weekdays, busy weekends, I just wanted someone else that knows their stuff to do it for me. Now, I am trying to get the boat to a heated storage and use the winter to learn about all the systems on board. I don't even know how the engines are cooled! (I have a slight idea...)

On the engines, both of my engines right slightly above 170C. Another thing I noticed is that I don't know how accurate the gages are. One engine reads about 500 to 1000RPM higher while sync gage is at the middle. At some point I will try to measure temps and revs manually and check the status of the gages.

You need to post pictures :)
 
Jim....my sinks all drain to a common header which connects to an overboard drain port. This is a gravity drain system. The only feed to my shower sump is from the shower drain but A/C would also drain there if I had it. I checked the sump recently and it was bone dry as I haven't used the shower. If you don't get an answer here on your grey water system, you can start a new thread as there are others that have the system.

Good luck.......


JimFromMD said:
The boat ran great. Luckily had a high tide to creep my way out of the narrow channel from the marina where the boat was kept for some hull detailing. The Chesapeake was flat on saturday so the boat got up on plane nicely and had an uneventful hour and a half ride back. Performed great. Spend the rest of the day cleaning and figuring out the drain system. Sunday we spent on the hook in Harnass Creek with the nettle pool out behind the boat. Perfect weather. Hopefully Hurricane Earl will leave us alone this thursday/friday so that we can have a good Labor Day weekend on the bay too!


So your sinks and shower all drain into that shower box though correct? My discharge line from that shower box is white and goes back to the holding tank. There is a fatter black line coming off the bilge pump outside the shower box which goes overboard when you run it. I looked in the owners manual and in the diagram the line that goes to the holding tank is labeled "overbard discharge" and the thru-hull from the other bilge pump is labeled "central drain"... So I'm thinking I have some alternate configuration for lake boats.

Definitely plan on getting that straightened out so the gray water goes over the side. Do you know how your drain from the shower box connects to the "central drain" line that comes off the other bilge pump? There's a blue connector in that hose, but it is not a "T" or "Y" valve... just looks like a blue plastic fitting inline with the hose so I assumed it was a check valve or something.
Click to expand...
 
Hi all,
Anyone ever try to access the starboard side windshield wiper motor? Mine is not moving and dash lights up so assume fuse is ok. There is a slanted panel above the mid salon area that seems like it would be behind the dashboard and possibly the wiper motor will be in there, but not sure how to remove it. There is nothing that indicates fasteners.

Thanks for any help.

Terri
 
Yea, I know the feeling on the survey..wow did I find extra things and like I think I said before, I complained enough that he refunded me...but doesn't cover the cost of missed issues.
The latest thing I've found is that the cabin fridge will not work on 120V.. works fine on DC.

I will try to take some pics today. It's not been detailed yet but am doing a little bit of cleaning and putting our name on 'Therapy IV'.




mfilippa said:
Terri, the good thing is that you seem very knowledgeable in the boating subject and are able to work on it! :smt038

My boat surveyor missed several things. He didn't check the genset. I found out because when I took delivery, it was not working. Several gages were not working. Drive trim does not go all way up on starboard side, have to use trailer switch to bring them both up at the same level. Worst was that we went for our first trip in the lake and came back when dark, just to find out that we had no nav lights at all. I was super pissed.

I just don't have time for it. Busy weekdays, busy weekends, I just wanted someone else that knows their stuff to do it for me. Now, I am trying to get the boat to a heated storage and use the winter to learn about all the systems on board. I don't even know how the engines are cooled! (I have a slight idea...)

On the engines, both of my engines right slightly above 170C. Another thing I noticed is that I don't know how accurate the gages are. One engine reads about 500 to 1000RPM higher while sync gage is at the middle. At some point I will try to measure temps and revs manually and check the status of the gages.

You need to post pictures :)
Click to expand...
 
Theresamarie11 said:
Hi all,
Anyone ever try to access the starboard side windshield wiper motor? Mine is not moving and dash lights up so assume fuse is ok. There is a slanted panel above the mid salon area that seems like it would be behind the dashboard and possibly the wiper motor will be in there, but not sure how to remove it. There is nothing that indicates fasteners.

Thanks for any help.

Terri
Click to expand...

Terri, did you check both of your EIM's? (electronic interface module) I think.....the one for the wipers is under the steering wheel behind the inspection door, if not, check the one in your engine room. Make sure a breaker didn't pop first.
 
Hey everyone,

I'm thinking about replacing all my head plumbing. It appears to be the original plumbing lines and I'm hoping new lines might get rid of the "stink" that is evident. Has anyone done this and can comment on the level of effort involved? I already know its gonna be a crappy job.
 
villain style said:
Hey everyone,

I'm thinking about replacing all my head plumbing. It appears to be the original plumbing lines and I'm hoping new lines might get rid of the "stink" that is evident. Has anyone done this and can comment on the level of effort involved? I already know its gonna be a crappy job.
Click to expand...


Hi,
What "Stink" are you talking about, something black-water related or just head plumbing in general? Is this something that is common for the 300 or you think more unique to your boat?

I just bought my boat about 3 weeks ago, and I think it had a tank of untreated fresh water in it for quite a while. When you turn the water on it smells rancid almost like someone got sick (enough to make you sick if not!). I've flushed 2 fresh tanks of water through the system, and its not nearly as bad, but still a hint of that smell. Also added water treatment that's supposed to keep the water fresh and also remove odors. Hoping this knocks it out. Back to the head "connection". The water in the head sink seems to smell the most funky of them all.

-James
 
I have the same issue on my new (used) Sundancer 300 2005. But it only stinks when I use the hot water. From what I've read so far in the heater manual there seems to be an expected chemical reaction...

I still need to try these procedures to see if it fixes it... Good luck, let us know how that goes.

I'm quoting the manual:
"FLUSHING TO REMOVE UNPLEASANT ODOR
A rotten egg odor (hydrogen sulfied) may be produced when the electro
galvanic action of the cladding material releases hydrogen from the ater.
if sulfur is present in the water supply the two will combine and produce
an unpleasant smell.
1. Turn off main water supply. Drain the water heater tank and reinstall
drain plug. Remove the pressure-temperature relief valve. Mix
solution of 4 parts white vinegar to two parts water. With a funnel,
carefully pour solution into tank.
2. Cycle water heater with the above solution, letting it run under normal
operation 4-5 times.
3. Remove the drain plug and thoroughly drain all water from the tank.
Flush the water heater to remove any sediment. You may flush the
tank with air pressure or fresh water. pressure may be applied
through either the inlet or outlet valves on the rear of the tank or
through the pressure-temperature relief valve coupling located on the
front of the unit.

TO FLUSH TANK WITH AIR PRESSURE:
Insert your air pressure through the pressure-temperature relief valve
coupling. With the drain valve open, the air pressure will force the
remaining water out of the unit.

TO FLUSH TANK WITH WATER PRESSURE:
Fresh water should be pumped into the tank with either the onboard
pump or external water pressure. Continue this flushing process for
approximately 5 minutes, allowing the fresh water to agitate the
stagnant water on the bottom of the tank and forcing the deposits
through the drain opening.
4. Replace drain plug and pressure-temperature relief valve.
5. Refill tank with fresh water that contains no sulphur.
The Atwood water heater is designed for use in a recreation vehicle. If
you use your vehicle frequently or for long periods of time, flushing the
water heater several times a year will prolong the life of the storage
tank."

You can download the manual from here: http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/waterheaters/MPD 93757 PS 11.19.07.pdf
 
Anyone in the group replaced their TV by the galley or done a digital/analog converter box retrofit? Just curious what brands or models fit nicely in that space.
 
Stray Cat said:
Terri, did you check both of your EIM's? (electronic interface module) I think.....the one for the wipers is under the steering wheel behind the inspection door, if not, check the one in your engine room. Make sure a breaker didn't pop first.
Click to expand...

The breaker hasn't popped and the EIM's, I think, are just the control panel switches from the wiring diagram. I did find that the wiper motor can be gotten to from the light fixture right above the couch. I took the fixture out and there was the wiper motor. It's tight, but assume I can get it out through there if I need to.

Terri
 
jrirvine, I noticed your 300DA is on a trailer. Do you have any hight issues with it when trailering?
 
JimFromMD said:
Anyone in the group replaced their TV by the galley or done a digital/analog converter box retrofit? Just curious what brands or models fit nicely in that space.
Click to expand...

I don't have a TV in the factory location but did do the D/A conversion. Pretty straight forward with the box but if you are replacing the TV with a digital set, you won't need it. There are some great posts here on TV retrofits for various models and D/A converters.

Modifications forum....

http://clubsearay.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=46&order=desc

"digital" search........

http://clubsearay.com/forum/search.php?searchid=2896528&pp=25
 
PS....I thought the easy way to find info was to search for "tv replacement" but forgot that the search engine won't recognize words less than four letters, as in "tv".
 
Well, we sold our 260 and here's our new baby.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0804.jpg
    IMG_0804.jpg
    94.1 KB · Views: 337
  • IMG_0816.jpg
    IMG_0816.jpg
    66 KB · Views: 340
We are a newbe to this site, bought a 300 a month ago. 2003. We just love it. Just wondering were do you sleep?? V-berth or aft?? Does anyone make bedding to fit? We have been sleeping in the v-berth. Does the side cushions come off?? They feel like the are fixed permamently. Has anyone removed them. It sure would give you more sleeping room. Any suggestion would be welcomed.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,282
Messages
1,430,007
Members
61,151
Latest member
KMadden
Back
Top