310 Sundancer Thread (2007 & newer)

[JimFromMD]

Thanks JimFromMd!! Yeah I gathered that as I called them already and they suggested the 1250p....very helpful and friendly. Was it easy to install??

Mine was. I did a direct replacement with minimal relocating. One thing to note is that (at least in my boat) Sea Ray did not include much extra length or service loop on the wires connected to the charger, so I had to move slightly up and left in order to get enough lenth to reach the new configuration. Secondly, do yourself a favor and take the charger with you to your local auto store to make sure you find crimp-on closed loop wire ends that will fit both the gauge of the wire itself (I only had crimp on ends for smaller gauge wires), and also that the hole in the crimp on closed loop connector will fit over the nut/bolt terminals on the charger (I ended up having to drill out the end of the connector a bit). Also unlike the old charger, my 1240p had plastic dividers between each post for the + - Ground and 3 bank setup. The closed loop connector has to fit inbetween those too (I almost had to file them off a bit to reduce the diameter enough to fit between the dividers. All doable... just take it with you so you dont have to make 3+ trips for the right parts you thought you had already

Wishing I had a picture for you right now so you could see the dividers I'm talking about. Either way its no big deal to work around. I would say probably an hour to 1.5 hour job, if you have everything ready and in place for the job.


If you have room for the remote monitor screen, it would be a nice addition. I have to tip up my cockpit floor to peek down and see how close to fully charged my batteries are if I'm charging from the generator on the hook. May end up adding the remote monitor screen if I can find a way to snake up the cable to my cockpit battery control switch area. (Which I already know has minimal slack line to work with in the wires, thanks to Bill zz13 who attempted to take his out for another project).

James

 

[IT'LL DEW]

Just ordered a 1250p!! U busy this weekend Jimbo???? Lol

 

[JimFromMD]

Just ordered a 1250p!! U busy this weekend Jimbo???? Lol

If summersville lake is in Hawaii or another gardenspot... count me in

Update... jsut googled. Looks like WV? Nice looking lake.

 

[JimG]

Just ordered a 1250p!! U busy this weekend Jimbo???? Lol

You know I'm there for ya!

 

[IT'LL DEW]

JimFromMD....c'mon!!!! Cleanest lake east of the Mississippi!!! Definitely a little slice of heaven! Jimbo....I know you r buddy!!! Guess I could turn the on board genny just to charge the batteries...or do I won't to scrap and by the 30 amp charger??? Confused!!!!

 

[JimG]

Definitely a little slice of heaven! Jimbo....I know you r buddy!!!

PM'd you...

 

[Seastheday2]

Have you had any luck with your cabin door? We just bought a 2009 310DA with 125 hours. The cabin door was chewing itself up, but it moved easily. The dealer had to take it out, repair the fiberglass, and gel coat the worn area. This came out great, but now the door is so hard to move that my wife was stuck in the cabin last weekend. I've asked a few others to try the door, and all have agreed that it is extremely difficult to operate. It looks to me like there are plastic blocks in the tracks above and below, not wheeled trucks. Should this door have wheels in the bottom track?

I applied a lithium grease to the track to try and ease the movement. The dealer gave me a hard time, saying that only dry lubricants can be used as others will accumulate debris and eventually bind the door in the track. I cleaned the track out thoroughly and applied graphite with no improvement.

I'll hold the dealer accountable to make it right, but I'd appreciate any perspective gained from someone whose run into this problem.

I just had the door repaired by the dealer. I had the tracks and guides replaced. Working great I just hope it holds up. I have plastic blocks that I hope hold to wear and tear.

 

[kaz911]

thanks for the confidence Jim

but the 20 amp charger is FAR to small to drive the SR310. It is only 20 Amps - turn on your fridges and a few lights and that was it. And it really does not deliver 20 amps - closer to 15 according to my measurements. This is of course mostly a problem when running on Generator. But I have not "upgraded" my charger yet.
.

Just correcting my own mistakes My SR310 standard is a 30 amp charger - but mine seem to be outputting max 8-9 amps. So I guess it has a few blown power transistors. So 1250p here I come.... at some point soon

 

[rwf]

Just correcting my own mistakes My SR310 standard is a 30 amp charger - but mine seem to be outputting max 8-9 amps. So I guess it has a few blown power transistors. So 1250p here I come.... at some point soon

For our size boats/batteries, the typical charging current is 10 amps. 30 amp chargers have three 10 amp charging circuits, which is interesting when you have 4 batteries. A pair is charged off of each rail, or at least two batteries are done on one rail.

Your charger is very likely fine. It is also likely to be enough. Even if the load you describe exceeds 10 amps the batteries catch up while you sleep.


Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

 

[kaz911]

For our size boats/batteries, the typical charging current is 10 amps. 30 amp chargers have three 10 amp charging circuits, which is interesting when you have 4 batteries. A pair is charged off of each rail, or at least two batteries are done on one rail.

Your charger is very likely fine. It is also likely to be enough. Even if the load you describe exceeds 10 amps the batteries catch up while you sleep.


Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

That is not the configuration... open your charger.... and check for yourself. A 30 Amp charger with AGM batteries should push out at least around 25-28 Amp if all batteries are low and there is consumption in the system. And as far as I can see on the circuit - the PD2130 charger - is actually a "single" 30 Amp charge pump - not 3 individual circuit outputs of 10 amp. So theoretically it should be able to push out 30 amp on one circuit.

I have 4 batteries in two banks - giving me equal 2 x 150 Ah batteries.

But my TOTAL output on all 3 charger "legs" has NEVER been above 10 amp. That is 5 amp / battery bank and only 2.5 Amp / battery - and that is = trying to damage my AGM batteries. Too little juice into the batteries while charging from a discharged state is equal to early battery retirement. My stupid optima bluetops are not "like other" AGMs so recommended charge speed for them is "only" < 10 Amp / battery = < 20 Amp/bank for me. But 5 Amp / bank is nowhere near enough.

And here is what Lifeline writes in their manual about charging

The charging current during the Bulk stage should be set as high as practical; higher current levels means faster recharge time. For repetitive deep cycling chargers should have an output current of at least 0.2C (20 Amps for a 100 Ah battery). If the output current is less than this value, the cycle life of the battery may be negatively affected. Due to the low impedance design, Lifeline batteries can tolerate in-rush current levels as high as 5C (500A fora 100 Ah battery).

But the above of course is only for my favourite Lifeline batteries and they will go in the boat once the bluetops give up.

 

[MExcelsior]

A couple of quick questions:

Does everyone's boat list a bit to starboard while no one is on board? My fuel tanks are filled at the same level, and when you have all the seating on the starboard, it seems to exaggerate when people are seated in the cockpit. Maybe it's the nature of the beast, but thought I would check with everyone.

Also, why is there a white line returning to the pump from the AC unit? I don't remember having this on my 280.

All the best,
Mike

 

[rwf]

If I remember right it is the port tank that has more capacity for the Genny, and the boat is balanced for that extra 17(?) gallons or so. That's about 103 pounds. I'd expect a very slight list starboard if all is equal, including gas in each tank.

When I fill up I fill to the brim and the boat is pretty level. On plane is a different story, port high without trim, something is out of alignment.

R.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

 

[JimG]

A couple of quick questions:

Does everyone's boat list a bit to starboard while no one is on board? My fuel tanks are filled at the same level, and when you have all the seating on the starboard, it seems to exaggerate when people are seated in the cockpit. Maybe it's the nature of the beast, but thought I would check with everyone.

Also, why is there a white line returning to the pump from the AC unit? I don't remember having this on my 280.

All the best,
Mike

I don't notice mine listing. (Fuel tanks are 94 starboard, 107 port to be exact.) The drain line from the A/C to the sump box is to pump the condensation overboard... is that the one you're speaking of?

 

[bryan25rs]

Anyone know anything about those speakers mounted on the bow, on each side of bow cushion. Are they factory? Where can I buy replacements. Has anyone replaced or removed them?

 

[MSNavigators]

I think the speakers are standard car speakers. Just need to be the correct size speaker to fit in that space.

Couple of questions...
1) Anyone having trouble with the rumble seat opening up spontaneously? Keep locking it, then it'll pop open again by itself.
2) When you're up on plane, are you able to add in any engine trim? Seems to get cavitation at minimal elevation with my BIII.
Thanks

 

[A1308]

Does anybody know how to open the hatch when the breaker went off? my hatch is fully closed and the breaker is inside the bilge! I can't access the bilge anymore and do mot know what to do.

andrea

 

[kaz911]

Does anybody know how to open the hatch when the breaker went off? my hatch is fully closed and the breaker is inside the bilge! I can't access the bilge anymore and do mot know what to do.

andrea

that is a tough one.. I think if you look where your electricity plug gets in - in the floor there is a screw access hatch - and the same under the back seat around the middle. If you open the screw hatches you can remove the safety pins from the lift mechanism as far as I remember - so you can manually lift the hatch up - but it is darn heavy - so it is a 2-4 man job.

 

[MExcelsior]

Does anybody know how to open the hatch when the breaker went off? my hatch is fully closed and the breaker is inside the bilge! I can't access the bilge anymore and do mot know what to do.

andrea

Someone had mentioned that if you supply power to the 12V receptacle at the helm (via 12v male pigtail from a jump pack), it will bypass the breaker and allow the hatch to work. Please let me know if this works. It seems still unclear whether this really bypasses the circuit, or if it is a way to lift the hatch on dead batteries only.

 

[kaz911]

Someone had mentioned that if you supply power to the 12V receptacle at the helm (via 12v male pigtail from a jump pack), it will bypass the breaker and allow the hatch to work. Please let me know if this works. It seems still unclear whether this really bypasses the circuit, or if it is a way to lift the hatch on dead batteries only.

I would like to know that as well that would make it easier apart from bringing a spare battery.

 

[A1308]

thanks! I gound the pins just cant get to remove them they
wont move at all..

that is a tough one.. I think if you look where your electricity plug gets in - in the floor there is a screw access hatch - and the same under the back seat around the middle. If you open the screw hatches you can remove the safety pins from the lift mechanism as far as I remember - so you can manually lift the hatch up - but it is darn heavy - so it is a 2-4 man job.