40 sedan bridge forum

[CaptRonn]

And, here we go again.

Had the boat out today, after 30 plus minutes running, the starboard engine dies.

Engage emergency start, and the engine comes back, but as soon as I release the emergency start switch, the engine dies.

Pushed the emergency start, and shoved a piece of cardboard under it to hold it ON. Started the starboard engine and drove home.

In the slip, as soon as I pulled the cardboard out, the engine quits. No voltage on the starboard ignition.

Just for curiosity, I swapped port and starboard batteries to see if the problem followed. No change, problem is still the same.

It acts like a bad ground. I’ve checked all grounds and cleaned them.

This started in the spring when my starboard battery died and I replaced it, before that I never had a problem. The only other thing that changed is I replaced the 90 amp fuse to the engine.

The battery charger.

Disconnected port and starboard engine batteries, and still had voltage to the 90 amp fuse. Radio was still playing.

Turned off the battery charger and voltage goes to zero.

Reconnected the batteries, went to the flybridge and both engines started.

Apparently the battery charger was supplying voltage, just no amperage.

 

[Pierpressure1]

And, here we go again.

Had the boat out today, after 30 plus minutes running, the starboard engine dies.

Engage emergency start, and the engine comes back, but as soon as I release the emergency start switch, the engine dies.

Pushed the emergency start, and shoved a piece of cardboard under it to hold it ON. Started the starboard engine and drove home.

In the slip, as soon as I pulled the cardboard out, the engine quits. No voltage on the starboard ignition.

Just for curiosity, I swapped port and starboard batteries to see if the problem followed. No change, problem is still the same.

It acts like a bad ground. I’ve checked all grounds and cleaned them.

This started in the spring when my starboard battery died and I replaced it, before that I never had a problem. The only other thing that changed is I replaced the 90 amp fuse to the engine.

Did you check the connection on the back of the switch?

 

[CaptRonn]

Did you check the connection on the back of the switch?

Yes.

When I turned off the battery charger (AC Converter) the problem vanished.

So now my question lies with the battery charger, and how it could possibly create this problem.

 

[Gregl]

The reversing switch sticking would be my first suspect.

I can't imagine both units having the same problem at the same time.

 

[CaptRonn]

What AC water pumps are folks here using?

Looking at the March pump. Do our boats use the 1000gph pumps?

Probably going to change mine out this winter.

 

[dgerrit]

The Saloon Couch is not level when it is folded out. Try to sleep on it and there is a good chance you'll wake up on the floor. It's the powered fold down couch on the port side. I've been told its a pretty simple adjustment, but I do not see any form of adjustment in the mechanism. The frame appears to be attached to a wood subframe that is screwed to the floor. The back edge appears to have about a 3/8" gap underneath that may be the source of some of the alignment however it seems like its positioned that way on purpose (based on bracket locations). Anybody else deal with this?

 

[my3sons]

What AC water pumps are folks here using?

Looking at the March pump. Do our boats use the 1000gph pumps?

Probably going to change mine out this winter.

Yes. The ac pump on mine has a rated capacity of 985 gph @ 3’ head

 

[scooper321]

So I resplashed today. You may recall I had a low RPM issue on my port engine. Couldn’t get to cruising RPM, much less WOT. Replaced all fuel filters with no change. Diver found the port prop hard to turn, on which I knew I needed a cutlass bearing. So I thought the shaft may be binding. Got her hauled and the cutlass bearings replaced on both sides. There was some pier wood (as opposed to tree wood) wedged in the port bearing. Also, the port shaft was quite scored, with a groove all the way around. It needed to be replaced. The port strut was also bent. Fast forward a week and a new shaft was put in and the strut straightened. Dropped her in today and noticed immediately some of the low speed vibrations were gone. Both engines accelerated much more easily and she got to cruising speed just fine. Also, I picked up about 2mph at cruise. Ran her for an hour home and it’s like a different boat. I am having to get used to slightly different engine and drive sounds, so I need to put a few hours on to make sure there’s no vibrations. I didn’t get the engines aligned, as the shaft was within 5 thousandths. But I need to ride and see. Cautiously optimistic that the bearing, strut and shaft were the issue. Still getting the mechanic out next week to look over the engines. I did go WOT on the way home and didn’t come close to 2700 on either side. So I need to Calibrate the tachs,or see if that’s a fuel issue before deciding i need to tweak my props. Just glad to be back in the water!

 

[scooper321]

So, changing topics drastically. We’ve discussed the forward bilge bump notification on the Sea Ray Systems monitor before. Mine now reports forward bilge pump alarm all the time, not just up on plane. But the pump isn’t running not stop. There IS some water in that bilge area, and I need to verify that the pump is working. The float may be stuck, but then wouldn’t the pump be running non stop (assuming it’s not burned out)? As I leave her in all winter, I may just replace both the pump and float and clean out that area well so that I’ve got a known working system, but do I need a special float or pump with a sensor of some sort that connects to the Systems Monitor?

 

[ttmott]

I didn’t get the engines aligned, as the shaft was within 5 thousandths. But I need to ride and see. Cautiously optimistic that the bearing, strut and shaft were the issue. Still getting the mechanic out next week to look over the engines.

Typically the strut, shaft, and engine alignment is different in the water than on land due to the way the hull takes a set in the water vs on blocks (the boat hull is not a rigid structure). Always do a final shaft alignment after the boat is in the water for several days.

 

[ttmott]

So, changing topics drastically. We’ve discussed the forward bilge bump notification on the Sea Ray Systems monitor before. Mine now reports forward bilge pump alarm all the time, not just up on plane. But the pump isn’t running not stop. There IS some water in that bilge area, and I need to verify that the pump is working. The float may be stuck, but then wouldn’t the pump be running non stop (assuming it’s not burned out)? As I leave her in all winter, I may just replace both the pump and float and clean out that area well so that I’ve got a known working system, but do I need a special float or pump with a sensor of some sort that connects to the Systems Monitor?

Nope - just make sure to reconnect the wiring correctly. One of the solid brown wires is the wire to the systems monitor module and it needs to connect between the float and pump. The other solid brown wire goes to the helm switch and also connects with the systems monitor brown wire between the float and pump. The brown and white wire is the +12V always hot that connects to the float wire not connected to the pump.

 

[ZZ13]

So I resplashed today. You may recall I had a low RPM issue on my port engine. Couldn’t get to cruising RPM, much less WOT. Replaced all fuel filters with no change. Diver found the port prop hard to turn, on which I knew I needed a cutlass bearing. So I thought the shaft may be binding. Got her hauled and the cutlass bearings replaced on both sides. There was some pier wood (as opposed to tree wood) wedged in the port bearing. Also, the port shaft was quite scored, with a groove all the way around. It needed to be replaced. The port strut was also bent. Fast forward a week and a new shaft was put in and the strut straightened. Dropped her in today and noticed immediately some of the low speed vibrations were gone. Both engines accelerated much more easily and she got to cruising speed just fine. Also, I picked up about 2mph at cruise. Ran her for an hour home and it’s like a different boat. I am having to get used to slightly different engine and drive sounds, so I need to put a few hours on to make sure there’s no vibrations. I didn’t get the engines aligned, as the shaft was within 5 thousandths. But I need to ride and see. Cautiously optimistic that the bearing, strut and shaft were the issue. Still getting the mechanic out next week to look over the engines. I did go WOT on the way home and didn’t come close to 2700 on either side. So I need to Calibrate the tachs,or see if that’s a fuel issue before deciding i need to tweak my props. Just glad to be back in the water!

Congrats on fixing the running gear. Sounds like previous owners hit a submerged log. Are you still seeing just 2800rpm at high idle? If so, find out why that's not at least at 2950 and resolve that before you look anywhere else.

 

[ZZ13]

What AC water pumps are folks here using?

Looking at the March pump. Do our boats use the 1000gph pumps?

Probably going to change mine out this winter.

I need to replace mine as well and then keep the current one as a spare. Can you post where you end up sourcing yours.

 

[scooper321]

Congrats on fixing the running gear. Sounds like previous owners hit a submerged log. Are you still seeing just 2800rpm at high idle? If so, find out why that's not at least at 2950 and resolve that before you look anywhere else.

That’s the task for this weekend. I should’ve done it once i docked yesterday. But it was a windy docking experience so I totally forgot after getting her in the slip. But yes, I want to check that, and that’s one of the reasons my mechanic is coming out next week too! I’ll keep y’all posted.

 

[CaptRonn]

I need to replace mine as well and then keep the current one as a spare. Can you post where you end up sourcing yours.

I took mine apart yesterday and found the O ring needed replacing. Found an o ring local, cleaned everything up and reinstalled, works fine. The slight leak around the o ring was losing water flow. Flow increases significantly afterwards.

https://www.marchpump.com/pump/ac-5c-md-magnetic-drive-pump/

Oiled the motor, it runs fine, smooth and cool with no noise. So right now I'm going to carry on with this one

For buying, here's what I found: https://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Air-AQP...ocphy=9027632&hvtargid=pla-567978811629&psc=1

 

[Johnny Utah]

Hi guys, I need to replace the OceanAir screen/shade for the hatch in the Master stateroom. Anyone know the part number? The "Passed Inspection" sticker is there with a spot for date and model number but it is blank.

Also, Thinking about removing the cabinet and TV in the salon. Can you post some pictures of how you changed it? Looking for ideas and inspiration.

Thanks in advance.

I need the same thing. Have you had any luck in finding the correct replacement?

 

[CaptRonn]

I need the same thing. Have you had any luck in finding the correct replacement?

West Marine carries them.

 

[bbwhitejr]

I need the same thing. Have you had any luck in finding the correct replacement?

Shoot them an email. I dealt with them several years ago and great resource.

info@oceanairmarine.com

Bennett

 

[Johnny Utah]

Thank you!

I changed all my cabin lights on my 2001 to LED but I still have two that I want to change. Do you guys know the size of the lights for the bilge and closet?

Do you guys know what each fresh water pump handles? My fresh water pump 1 runs and runs for hours. My fresh water pump 2 seems to handle everything and runs normal. Do I have a bad pump?

Have any of you changed the waste tank senor or changed out the tank? My tank goes to 1/2 tank pretty quick and then when I pump out, it seems like I was not close to 1/2 tank full.

How often do you change the oil on the generator? How often do you change the belt or impeller?

 

[ZZ13]

Thank you!

I changed all my cabin lights on my 2001 to LED but I still have two that I want to change. Do you guys know the size of the lights for the bilge and closet?

Do you guys know what each fresh water pump handles? My fresh water pump 1 runs and runs for hours. My fresh water pump 2 seems to handle everything and runs normal. Do I have a bad pump?

Have any of you changed the waste tank senor or changed out the tank? My tank goes to 1/2 tank pretty quick and then when I pump out, it seems like I was not close to 1/2 tank full.

How often do you change the oil on the generator? How often do you change the belt or impeller?

The bilge lights are an automotive 1141 bulb. The closet lights are a festoon bulb. But I don't know the size. Just measure the length in millimeters and that's the size.

Sounds like one of your pumps may have a leak at the pump head. That would explain why it never builds enough pressure to turn off.

On generator change oil and impeller annually. Change belt when it's needed based on inspection. Keep a reserve supply of at least one impeller and belt. Never know when they might prematurely fail.