40 sedan bridge forum

Does anyone else have trouble with their boat violently yanking back and forth on the hook? Not really much current in a small little cove. We have all chain rode. It was only like 5-8 mph breeze last night. The chain violently was rocking back and forth the bow and then the stern followed. The sailboats were all pretty much unfazed. Any thoughts ?
I’ve read some boats are worse on a single hook.
 
Does anyone else have trouble with their boat violently yanking back and forth on the hook? Not really much current in a small little cove. We have all chain rode. It was only like 5-8 mph breeze last night. The chain violently was rocking back and forth the bow and then the stern followed. The sailboats were all pretty much unfazed. Any thoughts ?
I’ve read some boats are worse on a single hook.

You could make a anchor snubber for the bow.

anchor-charter-yachts.png
 
Does anyone else have trouble with their boat violently yanking back and forth on the hook? Not really much current in a small little cove. We have all chain rode. It was only like 5-8 mph breeze last night. The chain violently was rocking back and forth the bow and then the stern followed. The sailboats were all pretty much unfazed. Any thoughts ?
I’ve read some boats are worse on a single hook.
Do you tie off the chain to the boat with a rope snubber to absorb the shock? Or is the chain clamped right to the top of the deck? If the latter than there is nothing elastic to absorb the shock and you'll need a snubber as posted above.
 
I had considered that. Does that eliminate the swinging too or just the chain grinding on the front. What size line would you recommend for our size boat?
 
I had considered that. Does that eliminate the swinging too or just the chain grinding on the front. What size line would you recommend for our size boat?

The harness will lessen the swinging. You can make one fairly easy and experiment with it to get your desired results. Google anchor snubbing.
 
Mother nature whipped up a hail storm here last week and the guestimates from the canvas guys are that in excess of 500 boats in the immediate Buffalo area are damaged.
My canvas is all original but the glass was replaced 3 years ago. Overall it was in great shape. Now not so much. 6 of the 11 panels are scratched and pitted with 4 of the panels with several holes blown right through. For right now, clear Gorilla Tape is my friend. To those of you that have recently done a full bridge replacement, no metal work, how much can I expect the cost to be? Yes some of it will be paid for by insurance, but do they prorate that based on age or does it pretty much get replaced to its previous self? TIA.
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With that many damaged boats, the canvas shops will be loaded up, which means the price goes up.

Cost is also dependent on the grade of plastic being used. I'm going to redo the front panels of my flybridge because the shop that did it used cheap plastic and it's deteriorating. My cost on materials just for the front panels is about $500 using quality polished plastic. I do my own sewing.
 
Mother nature whipped up a hail storm here last week and the guestimates from the canvas guys are that in excess of 500 boats in the immediate Buffalo area are damaged.
My canvas is all original but the glass was replaced 3 years ago. Overall it was in great shape. Now not so much. 6 of the 11 panels are scratched and pitted with 4 of the panels with several holes blown right through. For right now, clear Gorilla Tape is my friend. To those of you that have recently done a full bridge replacement, no metal work, how much can I expect the cost to be? Yes some of it will be paid for by insurance, but do they prorate that based on age or does it pretty much get replaced to its previous self? TIA.
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Boatswains Locker in Jacksonville, FL charges about $6,000 for ready to install full bridge canvas including the bimini top, based on the template they have for when Sea Ray had them make the canvas for this model. Thats with 40 gauge Strataglass. Includes all the fasteners and a loaner tool to install the fasteners.
 
Does anyone else have trouble with their boat violently yanking back and forth on the hook? Not really much current in a small little cove. We have all chain rode. It was only like 5-8 mph breeze last night. The chain violently was rocking back and forth the bow and then the stern followed. The sailboats were all pretty much unfazed. Any thoughts ?
I’ve read some boats are worse on a single hook.
First, you really need a bridle/snubber to prevent the windlass from taking all of that load and it quiets down the chain. Both my 400DA and 52DB windvane'd significantly on anchor; snubber or not. I think it's part of having a plaining hull and how much anchor scope is played out. We were out on the hook with friends who own a 50 Hatteras (big displacement boat) a couple of weeks ago and my 52 was swinging back and forth in a 40 foot arc; I had about 80 feet of chain out in 9 feet of water. Their boat didn't move an inch....
 
Does anyone know where actual radio unit is for the Raymarine 240 VHF? I looked in the starboard side glove box and didn’t see it. I want to check connections before I break out boat dollars to replace it.
Looking in the starboard side access door, mine is mounted on the front inside wall of the bridge. I’ll send a pic tomorrow if it helps
 
Here's an update on my sliding door track refurbish. After filing down the high spots the bottom of the rear part of door touched the track base at the rear rollers. You can see the rub marks in one of the photos. I was unable to turn the hight adjustment screw on that roller as it is corroded and stuck. So I bought a stainless track cover online for $31. As you can see it's rounded. When I cut it to length I was left with about a two foot scrap piece. So I tested install with it. First I gently tapped it on over the bad area. It is just long enough to cover the whole bad area. Then I used big channel locks to press it in to the shape of the existing track. This also served to hold it in place.

So, the result with just the scrap piece over the bad area is great. Old rollers still work good and it all rolls great now. Even where the rear roller steps on and off the end of the scrap piece is not noticeable. I'll eventually take the entire door out and replace the scrap piece with the full length. But got a feeling the scrap piece may be there a while.
 

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Well, looks like the scrap piece has to come off and the full piece go on. The added piece raised the back roller enough to angle down the vertical of the door. It messed with the alignment of the clamp latch on the door and the strike latch on the frame. I tried raising the front roller but it was already adjusted to its max height. The door latch got messed up while testing, but fortunately I was able to take it all out, clean it and reassemble it properly. An internal screw had come loose and fallen out. My guess is its been loosening out for a long time. The strike latch is adjustable both up and down and in and out. So for now I adjusted that to work.
 

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Boatswains Locker in Jacksonville, FL charges about $6,000 for ready to install full bridge canvas including the bimini top, based on the template they have for when Sea Ray had them make the canvas for this model. Thats with 40 gauge Strataglass. Includes all the fasteners and a loaner tool to install the fasteners.

Just looked at my invoice from last summer. About $7000 (installed) for custom canvas with high quality glass (Strataglass and Markalon). That price included the cockpit canvas/glass, too.
 
Swim platform question. Has anyone lifted their swim platform? Or, replaced the OEM one with one that rides higher and is wider? I thought someone had done this, but I looked back through the forum didn't quickly see any discussion on it. I did see questions about ow much weight the platform can hold and if anyone had replaced it with a hydraulic one. But no discussion about what it would take (and what it would cost) to put a higher, wider platform on.

Anyone have experience with this?
 
Just looked at my invoice from last summer. About $7000 (installed) for custom canvas with high quality glass (Strataglass and Markalon). That price included the cockpit canvas/glass, too.

That's a great price, at least for around here. The fabricator that I want to use is more $ than the others of course, but that's probably why I want to use him.
138 Tenara thread, adhesive sewn seams and Velcro on the flaps. The Velcro on the flaps for sure, but what about the 138 vs 92 thread, says besides being stronger, it fills the holes better. Don't they use smaller needles for smaller thread? Any fabricators out there that can give me an unbias opinion?
Thanks
 
That's a great price, at least for around here. The fabricator that I want to use is more $ than the others of course, but that's probably why I want to use him.
138 Tenara thread, adhesive sewn seams and Velcro on the flaps. The Velcro on the flaps for sure, but what about the 138 vs 92 thread, says besides being stronger, it fills the holes better. Don't they use smaller needles for smaller thread? Any fabricators out there that can give me an unbias opinion?
Thanks

Good question about the thread. I don't know the thickness, but I know thicker thread is something he promotes. So I'm guessing he used the 138. He did use #10 YKK zippers, Tenara Gortex thread and yes, the Velcro. We got 40g Strataglass for the rollable sections and 60g hard panel (Markalon) for the fixed panels.
 
Swim platform question. Has anyone lifted their swim platform? Or, replaced the OEM one with one that rides higher and is wider? I thought someone had done this, but I looked back through the forum didn't quickly see any discussion on it. I did see questions about ow much weight the platform can hold and if anyone had replaced it with a hydraulic one. But no discussion about what it would take (and what it would cost) to put a higher, wider platform on.

Anyone have experience with this?


I am also interested in doing this
If anyone has done it can you please post some pics
 
The plot thickens on the door track thing. I measured the height of the track along its full length in preparation for building it up to a uniform height before putting on the new track cover. The factory installed height is 5/8" and should be that height along its entire length. But it's not. The first foot and a half from each roller in the closed position drops as much as 3/32" in waves. I suspect that is from the design of the door requiring a downward force to unlatch it at the same time a horizontal force is needed to open it. That downward force at the start has slowly compressed the soft aluminum track along that first 18" length over 20 years. Previous owner must have been really strong because the first couple inches from the front roller is really down low. So low that the roller has been adjusted to the full max height. So, in order to save the cost of a new door I'm going to fill the voids with epoxy putty to put the entire track back to the same height. Then I'll install the new track cover over that with a little sealant in there to keep it in place. Stay tuned for pictures (whenever I get around to it).
 

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