40 sedan bridge forum

Gregl said:
Hi all, my wife and I decided to sell our boat and get something else. We have a 1999 with Volvo 410 diesels with about 1400 hours and lots of new stuff and in great shape. We are on the upper Chesapeake Bay. Putting this out there before I talk to my broker. Thanks, Greg
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I have people at my club looking to upgrade. I will pass it along when you know the asking price Greg.
 
Hi all,

The chrome handle on the sliding door came off a few weeks back and I can't seem to find the plastic bag with the hardware. Do you guys know the screws and plastic pieces I need to buy to replace the old parts? Thanks in advance!
 
Pgeee said:
I don’t use a/c much so rusty here but I thought the a/c drain run into the sump ?
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I stand corrected on this now that I really looked at my sump today. Both a/c's run into my sump not into my forward engine room bilge. Now I have another issue, where does that drain hose lead to that's in my forward engine room bilge? I am getting fresh water inside.
 
Do you mean the hose that‘s for flushing the a/c, it should be shut off via a stop cock, ive Never used it but you connect a hose to it to flush the a/c. Others here would have more hands on with it . Still, Maybe you don’t mean that hose as any leak would be raw water , not fresh
 
ddx77 said:
I stand corrected on this now that I really looked at my sump today. Both a/c's run into my sump not into my forward engine room bilge. Now I have another issue, where does that drain hose lead to that's in my forward engine room bilge? I am getting fresh water inside.
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Post a picture off it. The shower sump has an overflow drain hose that dumps any overflow into the forward emergency bilge. Some here have modified their boats to continue that hose through the bulkhead into the forward engine room bilge.
 
Well it’s official I am part of the “club” now, closed on a 2001 400 Sedan Bridge, survey went well. I’ll fol up w pictures and questions soon!
 

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ZZ13 said:
Post a picture off it. The shower sump has an overflow drain hose that dumps any overflow into the forward emergency bilge. Some here have modified their boats to continue that hose through the bulkhead into the forward engine room bilge.Thank
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ZZ13 said:
Post a picture off it. The shower sump has an overflow drain hose that dumps any overflow into the forward emergency bilge. Some here have modified their boats to continue that hose through the bulkhead into the forward engine room bilge.
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Thanks Bill, I may have figured it out. For sure that hose that's in my forward bilge is the sump drain. Seems my sump bilge had failed and the over flow water traveled down to where that hose goes through the bulkhead. The seal was not good enough so the water was passing through the hole into my bilge. Sump pump fixed and water dried up. Now the backflow preventer in the bilge line in the engine room seems to be faulty, so when it pumps, some of the water backs back into the bilge through the pump. Going to fix that this week, that should fix the wet bilge area there. Thanks to you and everyone else with the replies, the help is always appreciated.
 
Been quite a while since I’ve been on here. Just saying hi. Spent the majority of our summer living on the boat in Block Island, RI. Pic is from the 4th when it was pretty crowded.
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ZZ13 said:
Hi John. How did the bow cushions work out for the girls?
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Awesome. They loved them! Unfortunately they’re coming off this weekend to have a long nap in the basement. At least that should keep them in good condition for a few more years!
 
Anyone know now to remove the sliding screen saloon door can be removed to replace the rollers? I have run a search but no luck. Looks like the fixed glass panel might have to be removed?
 
New to the vacuflush this sounds and acts different what am I looking at or listening too? I have read about duck bills…this seems to take a bit to recover. Like 15-20 seconds?
 
Njlarry said:
Anyone know now to remove the sliding screen saloon door can be removed to replace the rollers? I have run a search but no luck. Looks like the fixed glass panel might have to be removed?
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Adjust the roller tension screws up to allow the rollers to move away from the tracks and the screen door comes right out. No need to remove the big doors. There are several sliding door posts here but you are right, the search function here is awful. One of my posts is #5405
 
Dbrownie said:
New to the vacuflush this sounds and acts different what am I looking at or listening too? I have read about duck bills…this seems to take a bit to recover. Like 15-20 seconds?
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20 sec seems about right. Since we switched to Boaters Mate No Flex aka Carters Powder no problems in three seasons. Search here for Carters recipe.
 
ZZ13 said:
Cored hull mid 2001 and earlier. Solid glass hull after that. Mine was built in May ‘01 and is solid glass. But no one has reported here any wet hull issues with the cored hull. Deck to hull joint is likely leaking water into the bilge if it hasn’t been resealed by now. Especially the transom rubrail joint. Not a deal breaker at all. Easy to reseal. Just pull rubrail off, recaulk joint, then screw rubrail back on. Many here have resealed the transom joint and some have taken the time to do the full rubrail. The three glass pieces of the Windshield tends to leak if not resealed by now. Tedious labor to reseal but not hard. Several here have done that. Bow hatch can break its seal and leak into headliner of master stateroom. Another easy reseal job. Deck at cutout is blocked with wood so the leaking water generally doesn’t weep into the core and soften it.
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I am starting to get leaks for m my windshield in my 2001. How do you reseal the windshield? Have folks replace the forward hatch as well?. Thanks.
 
Boston-boater said:
I am starting to get leaks for m my windshield in my 2001. How do you reseal the windshield? Have folks replace the forward hatch as well?. Thanks.
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Its not hard, going around the out side frame is easy. Going around the glass and frame is harder and you need to remove all the rubber trim which you can get from taylor made then remove all the old sealant. Did mine right before the last tropical storm here in NC about a month ago and not one leak! the trim takes about 2 weeks to get from taylor made if its in stock but the price was 5.75 a foot and i got enough for the 3 front windows and both side windows which I figured out was close to a 100' which would allow to errors. I haven't got the trim back on yet but windows are sealed up. I posted the part # for the trim in another post but if you need it I can look it up but mine is a 1998 40SD so hopefully yours is same trim.
 
Boston-boater said:
I am starting to get leaks for m my windshield in my 2001. How do you reseal the windshield? Have folks replace the forward hatch as well?. Thanks.
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Here is a summary of what I did. I didn’t completely clear the channel of all sealant. I just cleared enough of it out to expose the edge of the glass. Also step 5 is optional. It isn’t necessary for sealing. It was just something I came up with to “glue” all of the trim to the glass so it wouldn’t shrink as quickly.

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/40-sedan-bridge-forum.53961/post-950143
 
david_h said:
I am wondering if this post may have solved a mystery for me......

Does rain water that enters these vents
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get directed to this drain (red circle below) via a hose?
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Looking for one of my mysteries to be solved.

tks

Dave
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Hi Dave,

Did you have any luck with this. My starboard side has a little water but port side is moving alot of water in heavy rain.
Would love to keep the water going over the sides rather the. Into the boat.


Jamie
 
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