410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

If I can find the correct O ring I am going to do it myself (with some competent help nearby). If it solves the problem I won't ever let the other mechanic touch my engine again.

Anyone know the part #?
 
gmaki said:
If I can find the correct O ring I am going to do it myself (with some competent help nearby). If it solves the problem I won't ever let the other mechanic touch my engine again.

Anyone know the part #?
Click to expand...

7W-2398 is the gasket on the turbo side and 9M-4849 is the O-ring on the block side (for our 1Zj 3126's, that is)

plug your SN's into SIS and its the Lines-GP Turbocharger diagram
https://sis2.cat.com/#/
 
Added some bling to the engine room. Replaced the old blistering exhaust hose with some shields blue silicone. I also gelcoted the port engine tube white since the factory black had all but fallen off. I still need to source additional hose clamps.
7777CCAD-34BF-46FC-A7F2-D45C01B51A1B.jpeg
063303C6-BE04-4D77-A4AD-12503D4AAFAC.jpeg
 
Riptide III said:
Added some bling to the engine room. Replaced the old blistering exhaust hose with some shields blue silicone. I also gelcoted the port engine tube white since the factory black had all but fallen off. I still need to source additional hose clamps.View attachment 133111 View attachment 133112
Click to expand...

Fancy! Did you just buy stock lengths of that tube and cut to size? Looks nice.
 
Riptide III said:
Added some bling to the engine room. Replaced the old blistering exhaust hose with some shields blue silicone. I also gelcoted the port engine tube white since the factory black had all but fallen off. I still need to source additional hose clamps.View attachment 133111 View attachment 133112
Click to expand...
That looks great!!

One note...not sure if your just mid stream on the project, but make sure the SS elbows are bonded.
 
Riptide III said:
Added some bling to the engine room. Replaced the old blistering exhaust hose with some shields blue silicone. I also gelcoted the port engine tube white since the factory black had all but fallen off. I still need to source additional hose clamps.View attachment 133111 View attachment 133112
Click to expand...

this place is brutal, now I have another winter project ;)

looks great
 
Strecker25 said:
this place is brutal, now I have another winter project ;)

looks great
Click to expand...

You're not kidding. Just ordered a Lewmar stainless anchor this morning and hoping to get these installed on each side of the arch over Labor Day weekend. Got them from Nauticalite.com...RGB and on separate controllers so you can do red and green if you wanted to. I'll post a finished pic once I get them installed and working...
20220823_185517.jpg
 
Both of my alternators have a disconnected orange wire on them. They have been cut and taped Is this normal? I have had the boat for 6 years and it has always been like that. I'm just now getting to the point where I care. They have a red and black wire attached as one would expect. I thought it might have been a tach, however, the pickup is magnetic on the flywheel. Curious minds want to know.
 
OK, thought I'd give you all an update on getting "Ziveli" ready for the water. Just a quick review I am waiting for a resolution to the port engine oil leak, although I intend to actually resolve that myself by replacing an O ring on the oil return tube.

Been spending weekends on the boat in the meantime and recently things have begun to stop working. Like.. lights, faucets, stereo, etc... Now it took my head awhile to grasp the whole AC power vs DC power while hooked to shore power thing so I am embarrassed to admit that I realized it was my batteries dying far too late.

Took a look below and sure enough the Blue Sea charger has an internal fuse fault that is not user serviceable. Worse yet, I am pretty damn sure I've destroyed all my batteries, save the gen battery which may have been shot anyway.

There is a number I can call at Blue Sea, but frankly I don't want a charger that has non replaceable fuses that can randomly allow my batteries to deplete. So I ordered a Victron Centaur 12/50. Seems pretty well regarded according to my Google education, and it was in stock and ready to ship.

Now I have to get all the batteries out so I can test them and then replace as necessary. Now it appears to me that removing the port exhaust tube would not only make that job much easier, but also the O ring job.

My only question is, is there a preferred way to remove that tube? I can see several hose clamps that look easy to remove but which ones are the most effective? and even though the hose clamps are easy, I imagine sliding the hoses themselves off will not be so easy. I am sure this has been done many times so if anyone has any advice on how best to tackle it please let me know.

I am COVID positive and have been banished to the boat, so I literally have all the time in the world to do this. Which is good, cause I work slow.
 
gmaki said:
OK, thought I'd give you all an update on getting "Ziveli" ready for the water. Just a quick review I am waiting for a resolution to the port engine oil leak, although I intend to actually resolve that myself by replacing an O ring on the oil return tube.

Been spending weekends on the boat in the meantime and recently things have begun to stop working. Like.. lights, faucets, stereo, etc... Now it took my head awhile to grasp the whole AC power vs DC power while hooked to shore power thing so I am embarrassed to admit that I realized it was my batteries dying far too late.

Took a look below and sure enough the Blue Sea charger has an internal fuse fault that is not user serviceable. Worse yet, I am pretty damn sure I've destroyed all my batteries, save the gen battery which may have been shot anyway.

There is a number I can call at Blue Sea, but frankly I don't want a charger that has non replaceable fuses that can randomly allow my batteries to deplete. So I ordered a Victron Centaur 12/50. Seems pretty well regarded according to my Google education, and it was in stock and ready to ship.

Now I have to get all the batteries out so I can test them and then replace as necessary. Now it appears to me that removing the port exhaust tube would not only make that job much easier, but also the O ring job.

My only question is, is there a preferred way to remove that tube? I can see several hose clamps that look easy to remove but which ones are the most effective? and even though the hose clamps are easy, I imagine sliding the hoses themselves off will not be so easy. I am sure this has been done many times so if anyone has any advice on how best to tackle it please let me know.

I am COVID positive and have been banished to the boat, so I literally have all the time in the world to do this. Which is good, cause I work slow.
Click to expand...

i love the boat quarantine lol

the tubes are a bit of a bear if they haven’t been off in a while. Get your selhya hose hook tool and a couple plastic putty knives. Once you work those in a bit the rubber will let go and you can get it apart.
 
Riptide III said:
Both of my alternators have a disconnected orange wire on them. They have been cut and taped Is this normal? I have had the boat for 6 years and it has always been like that. I'm just now getting to the point where I care. They have a red and black wire attached as one would expect. I thought it might have been a tach, however, the pickup is magnetic on the flywheel. Curious minds want to know.
Click to expand...
What brand of alternator? If a Delco 10SI or 12SI (cast in the back of the aluminum housing) and that wire is from the plug Pin 1 on the side of the housing?? If so that wire is probably actually Brown in color and for a charge indicator light which is not used in marine applications. The red wire coming from that same plug (pin 2) goes to the ignition switch.
 
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gmaki said:
OK, thought I'd give you all an update on getting "Ziveli" ready for the water. Just a quick review I am waiting for a resolution to the port engine oil leak, although I intend to actually resolve that myself by replacing an O ring on the oil return tube.

Been spending weekends on the boat in the meantime and recently things have begun to stop working. Like.. lights, faucets, stereo, etc... Now it took my head awhile to grasp the whole AC power vs DC power while hooked to shore power thing so I am embarrassed to admit that I realized it was my batteries dying far too late.

Took a look below and sure enough the Blue Sea charger has an internal fuse fault that is not user serviceable. Worse yet, I am pretty damn sure I've destroyed all my batteries, save the gen battery which may have been shot anyway.

There is a number I can call at Blue Sea, but frankly I don't want a charger that has non replaceable fuses that can randomly allow my batteries to deplete. So I ordered a Victron Centaur 12/50. Seems pretty well regarded according to my Google education, and it was in stock and ready to ship.

Now I have to get all the batteries out so I can test them and then replace as necessary. Now it appears to me that removing the port exhaust tube would not only make that job much easier, but also the O ring job.

My only question is, is there a preferred way to remove that tube? I can see several hose clamps that look easy to remove but which ones are the most effective? and even though the hose clamps are easy, I imagine sliding the hoses themselves off will not be so easy. I am sure this has been done many times so if anyone has any advice on how best to tackle it please let me know.

I am COVID positive and have been banished to the boat, so I literally have all the time in the world to do this. Which is good, cause I work slow.
Click to expand...
Good call on the Victron charger - the best.
I would recommend getting set up with a shunt based battery monitor; they are not expensive and needed in our boats. One of the biggest problems with our boats is we have no idea what the state of charge is on the battery banks. And, the battery banks are one of the most important things on the boat.
 
ttmott said:
Good call on the Victron charger - the best.
I would recommend getting set up with a shunt based battery monitor; they are not expensive and needed in our boats. One of the biggest problems with our boats is we have no idea what the state of charge is on the battery banks. And, the battery banks are one of the most important things on the boat.
Click to expand...

For sure, that is part of the reason I bought the Victron, so I could add battery monitoring.

since the Victron is 3 banks, can I have it charge the gen battery as well?

Also, I would like to add solar charging at some point.
 
Got all the battery cables off the morning and tested each battery. Good news is the starboards are OK and taking a charge. They are Interstate GP31 flooded cells btw from 2017.

No reading at all on the tester on the port side. Not ready to give up on the ports yet after all though. Once I've got the stbds topped up I am going to jump the port batteries from the stbds and try and get them charging.

Haven't removed the exhaust tube yet either. Starting to think maybe I won't have to.
 
gmaki said:
Got all the battery cables off the morning and tested each battery. Good news is the starboards are OK and taking a charge. They are Interstate GP31 flooded cells btw from 2017.

No reading at all on the tester on the port side. Not ready to give up on the ports yet after all though. Once I've got the stbds topped up I am going to jump the port batteries from the stbds and try and get them charging.

Haven't removed the exhaust tube yet either. Starting to think maybe I won't have to.
Click to expand...

I know it’s easy to spend other peoples money but I would consider replacing them all when you do your charger. Mine were 3-4 years old when we took posession but the original charger was cooking them so I had no idea how bad of shape they were in. I buy all my batteries at Walmart for $90 each and they last a very long time on a proper charger.
 
Going to attempt to replace the cabin door track on our 2000 410, wondering how and if the door needs to come off as it looks like the track runs beyond where the door slides into.
image.jpg
 
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