410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

Thank you all. I've read thru all 5400 posts on this thread hoping to learn as much about this boat as I can. I have also watched every Youtube video on the head system that I could find. I came from a 350 Sundancer so should not be that different.
 
Just did this yesterday. "hand tight"-what does this mean? When everything is brand new and sitting on your desk hand tight may be possible but on your stomach stretching over the engine with a pipe wrench that wants 90degrees to engage hand tight to me is of limited value. IN PRACTICE-tighten them to your best guess for just bottoming, err on the less tight side. Assuming that your vacuum tank is "clean" power up master head breaker and pump will run to build vacuum. Check for leaks. tighten as necessary. Flush probably more leaks-tighten as necessary. "rinse and repeat" as req.
You definitely do not need a pipe wrench...at least going back together!

Yep unfortunately best guess err on light side is correct. If still leaking down you can always give it another go.

From personal experience. It doesn't take much to crack thus stuff.

I don't rebuild in the boat anymore...I pull and rebuild on the bench.
 
I've purchased all the parts to install the tunnel trim tabs this spring. What is everyone using for sealant? I see Bennett recommends 5200 but I'm a little hesitant as these parts could need to be removed at some point in the future. Any issues using 4200 or something similar?
 
I've purchased all the parts to install the tunnel trim tabs this spring. What is everyone using for sealant? I see Bennett recommends 5200 but I'm a little hesitant as these parts could need to be removed at some point in the future. Any issues using 4200 or something similar?
Yup - 5200. It has a tenacious bond and that's what is needed.
Things bonded with 5200 can come off it just takes a bit more work.
 
Thank you all. I've read thru all 5400 posts on this thread hoping to learn as much about this boat as I can. I have also watched every Youtube video on the head system that I could find. I came from a 350 Sundancer so should not be that different.
Welcome and congrats.
I am next door to you at the “other” marina.
 
Longshot but figured I'd ask. Need to replace my throttle cable that goes from the helm to my sturdy synchronizer on my 1998 400DA w/ 3116 cats. Inspected both ends of the cable and its so old all the markings that would denote model # and length are unreadable. I would rather not pull and measure the old cable as I intend on using it to pull the new one through. Can anybody take a look-see at their cable and find the length? Worse comes to worse I'm able toread the measurement of the cable that goes directly to the starboard engine. I can disconnect it, move it to the synchronizer and subtract the excess.

Thanks in advance
 
Longshot but figured I'd ask. Need to replace my throttle cable that goes from the helm to my sturdy synchronizer on my 1998 400DA w/ 3116 cats. Inspected both ends of the cable and its so old all the markings that would denote model # and length are unreadable. I would rather not pull and measure the old cable as I intend on using it to pull the new one through. Can anybody take a look-see at their cable and find the length? Worse comes to worse I'm able toread the measurement of the cable that goes directly to the starboard engine. I can disconnect it, move it to the synchronizer and subtract the excess.

Thanks in advance

Different boat so I can’t help with the measurement but did you check the SR parts manual for your year? Not being smartass, they listed the cable lengths and models in the manual for my 290DA, so it might be in there
 
Different boat so I can’t help with the measurement but did you check the SR parts manual for your year? Not being smartass, they listed the cable lengths and models in the manual for my 290DA, so it might be in there


Checked and found the cables to be way too long so assumed they were the listed cable lengths without the sturdy synchronizer and left it at that. Looked again just now and found another entry buried in the parts manual section for the synchronizer that listed cable lengths w/ the synchronizer. Looks like the length is about right (12'). Will eyeball it and guesstimate lenght to confirm tomorrow when I get to the boat.

Thanks for making me look again.:)
 
Checked and found the cables to be way too long so assumed they were the listed cable lengths without the sturdy synchronizer and left it at that. Looked again just now and found another entry buried in the parts manual section for the synchronizer that listed cable lengths w/ the synchronizer. Looks like the length is about right (12'). Will eyeball it and guesstimate lenght to confirm tomorrow when I get to the boat.

Thanks for making me look again.:)

Nice!
 
Checked and found the cables to be way too long so assumed they were the listed cable lengths without the sturdy synchronizer and left it at that. Looked again just now and found another entry buried in the parts manual section for the synchronizer that listed cable lengths w/ the synchronizer. Looks like the length is about right (12'). Will eyeball it and guesstimate lenght to confirm tomorrow when I get to the boat.

Thanks for making me look again.:)
Ain't none of us gettin any younger. Cheers Ryan.
 
Longshot but figured I'd ask. Need to replace my throttle cable that goes from the helm to my sturdy synchronizer on my 1998 400DA w/ 3116 cats. Inspected both ends of the cable and its so old all the markings that would denote model # and length are unreadable. I would rather not pull and measure the old cable as I intend on using it to pull the new one through. Can anybody take a look-see at their cable and find the length? Worse comes to worse I'm able toread the measurement of the cable that goes directly to the starboard engine. I can disconnect it, move it to the synchronizer and subtract the excess.

Thanks in advance

You could pull it out with another line/rope/cable attached to use for pulling the proper cable through once you've confirmed what you've got? Though I'd also probably only want to do this once :)
 
You could pull it out with another line/rope/cable attached to use for pulling the proper cable through once you've confirmed what you've got? Though I'd also probably only want to do this once :)

I could but I HATE routing wires cables on the starboard side as its so packed with cabling. Doing it once and done is enough...
 
It was 60 degrees here yesterday...time to get serious about Spring I guess!

I ordered up four new batteries today. I'm replacing two Duracell's that were installed in 2020 and two that were installed in 2018. I can't say for sure which bank is failing but 3-4 seasons has always been an acceptable life span to me at this price point. I figured I'd do all 4 since the newest pair is going into their 4th season this year. Even if they are still good, might as well do this just once.

$144 plus a 10% discount for ordering online. Screaming deal...I think.

1708620787611.png
 
There was another thread going on AGM's recently. Just some quick math based on what I'm getting (mine are in water year around, no winter layup to consider).

For Flooded @$145 that last 4 years = $36/year

For AGM's @$215 that last 8 years = $26/year.
 
There was another thread going on AGM's recently. Just some quick math based on what I'm getting (mine are in water year around, no winter layup to consider).

For Flooded @$145 that last 4 years = $36/year

For AGM's @$215 that last 8 years = $26/year.

I saw some deals on AGM this morning as well. Ultimately, I didn't want to go searching for the manual for my charger to change battery type :). Switching to AGM would also mean I'd need to replace my generator battery....so...yeah...excuses.

AGM is appealing but I stuck with the easy button this time around.
 
I saw some deals on AGM this morning as well. Ultimately, I didn't want to go searching for the manual for my charger to change battery type :). Switching to AGM would also mean I'd need to replace my generator battery....so...yeah...excuses.

AGM is appealing but I stuck with the easy button this time around.
Yeah with the genny battery, I get it
 
The trouble with flooded batteries for me was location. I knew I would be lucky to check the water level even once per year. My 2006 stock charger is supposed to handle AGM charge profile. I switched to AGM last year.
 
So this happened Sunday\. Fired up both engines to run for about 15mins since I haven't cranked them in a couple of months due to it being cold in Ga. After I shut down the starboard engine I noticed my bilge coming on every 5mins, which is not normal. So I then go into the engine room to find the cause of the leak. Somehow the cotter key worked its way towards the front of the pump plate and rounded out a hole in the plate. Has anyone ever experienced this before? CAT 3126
 

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So this happened Sunday\. Fired up both engines to run for about 15mins since I haven't cranked them in a couple of months due to it being cold in Ga. After I shut down the starboard engine I noticed my bilge coming on every 5mins, which is not normal. So I then go into the engine room to find the cause of the leak. Somehow the cotter key worked its way towards the front of the pump plate and rounded out a hole in the plate. Has anyone ever experienced this before? CAT 3126
No that is the first time I've seen/heard of that failure.

How old is the impeller? Who changed it last? I'm thinking the Hub must have split for that to happen.
 

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