Work up to 28 degrees at my house this AM. Cooollldddd out there.
Hopefully winters last gasp in our lovely parts of the country.
Checked the bilge and it’s a nice 45 degrees with outdoor temps around 29 so the big hunks of iron are safe
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Work up to 28 degrees at my house this AM. Cooollldddd out there.
Around here we don't get worried until we get several days in the single digits. Water acts as a big heater (even cold water).Hopefully winters last gasp in our lovely parts of the country.
Checked the bilge and it’s a nice 45 degrees with outdoor temps around 29 so the big hunks of iron are safe
Yup. That's easily sourced. Thanks. What I'm really looking for is the bracing/mounting hardware that attaches them to the V-drive and to the stringer. Fabricating those are beyond my expertise.You can buy it online or Mcmaster Carr. I think these are aluminum. There is some rectangular bracing on the underside thats likely necessary.
The bracing underneath is 1x2 aluminum and at least the middle one is screwed strait into the stringer. I’d just line the up and drill new holes in the aluminum.Yup. That's easily sourced. Thanks. What I'm really looking for is the bracing/mounting hardware that attaches them to the V-drive and to the stringer. Fabricating those are beyond my expertise.
Ill post up a few pics next time up.The bracing underneath is 1x2 aluminum and at least the middle one is screwed strait into the stringer. I’d just line the up and drill new holes in the aluminum.
As far as the hardware to mount on the transmission…don’t know.
www.flounderpounder.com makes them1998 400DA Cabin door upper tracks-the ones for the top sliding section. Are they still available? The last time we did them was probably 10 years ago or more and could still get them. If not what are the options? One side has a groove to hold the rollers and the other side is just the L shaped cover.
I got around to adding an anchor washdown this past weekend. For anyone else that doesn't have this option from the factory you can tee into the fresh water supply behind the shower. From there it's a simple run straight forward to the anchor locker. Here's the parts I used.
20' of 15mm tubing - https://www.fawcettboat.com/products/wws-wx7162b
15mm tee conector - https://www.fawcettboat.com/products/wws-wx1502b
15mm to 1/2 adapter - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YI8I59I?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
hose bib w/ flange - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6L9NW5N?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
for the hose bib mount I used part of a 1/2 thick cutting board and some stainless angle brackets from the hardware store
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It should start on a completely dead battery bank. I think @dtfeld just replaced that solenoid, that’s probably the issue. You could see if you’re getting 12 V on the post while someone presses the button.Last weekend, we returned from our weekend outing and it seems I neglected to switch over to shore power. Thankfully, I went back to the boat on Wednesday to do a couple things and discovered my mistake. The result was a dead starboard bank of batteries (2). The port batteries and gennie battery were fine. What surprised me was when I tried to start the starboard engines with the emergency start switch, it would click, but not turn over. I waited 30 mins for charging the sb batteries on the charger, and it would turn over slowly but not start. Went back a few days later and all was back to normal. My question is about the emergency start...on my previous 340, I had to use it a couple of times and it worked well. Maybe i just never had a completely dead bank of batteries. Should it start with only one good bank, or does a dead bank draw it down too far? Just want to know if a have a problematic solenoid before it happens when I am not at the dock.
Last weekend, we returned from our weekend outing and it seems I neglected to switch over to shore power. Thankfully, I went back to the boat on Wednesday to do a couple things and discovered my mistake. The result was a dead starboard bank of batteries (2). The port batteries and gennie battery were fine. What surprised me was when I tried to start the starboard engines with the emergency start switch, it would click, but not turn over. I waited 30 mins for charging the sb batteries on the charger, and it would turn over slowly but not start. Went back a few days later and all was back to normal. My question is about the emergency start...on my previous 340, I had to use it a couple of times and it worked well. Maybe i just never had a completely dead bank of batteries. Should it start with only one good bank, or does a dead bank draw it down too far? Just want to know if a have a problematic solenoid before it happens when I am not at the dock.
Edit...Last weekend, we returned from our weekend outing and it seems I neglected to switch over to shore power. Thankfully, I went back to the boat on Wednesday to do a couple things and discovered my mistake. The result was a dead starboard bank of batteries (2). The port batteries and gennie battery were fine. What surprised me was when I tried to start the starboard engines with the emergency start switch, it would click, but not turn over. I waited 30 mins for charging the sb batteries on the charger, and it would turn over slowly but not start. Went back a few days later and all was back to normal. My question is about the emergency start...on my previous 340, I had to use it a couple of times and it worked well. Maybe i just never had a completely dead bank of batteries. Should it start with only one good bank, or does a dead bank draw it down too far? Just want to know if a have a problematic solenoid before it happens when I am not at the dock.
Given a completely dead and a less that fresh other bank, no. My understanding of the emergency start system is intended to get you going after your at the sandbar and run one bank to 50%. However, I was advised to never start unless you have shore power/generator powering the charger. Once your off the shore power, the generator battery charger is your "jump starter" of last resort.
I assume that you left the DC power on, hence the fridge was on? I usually turn the DC power off, the critical DC systems like the bilge pumps are "always on".
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