420 DA Thread

Which battery bank feeds the house on our boat? I am guessing starboard. The reason for my question:

We recently replaced our 4 engine cranking batteries. Since then, I have twice run down the starboard side so low that the starboard engine would not crank. This was on mild days when we did not have the genny running. This never happened with the old batteries (how frustrating is that). Around the same time, I noticed that my fridge and freezer are not keeping cold on 12V. They work fine on genny or shore power, but not on 12V.

I am guessing that one of my new starboard batteries is weak or bad, and can't keep up with the current draw of the fridge, freezer, lights, and stereo. The old batteries (6 years old when replaced) handled that load fine and would fire the engine up without hesitation.

Note that I *always* combine both battery banks (emergency start) when starting the engines.

Thanks, all.
As swaterhouse said, the PORT battery bank is your house batteries. Could it be a bad battery? I suppose so. But more likely you don't have a good clean connection on your starboard shore connector/power post. You should see a green light on your power panel if it is properly connected. Additionally, the starboard battery solenoid switch (inside your power panel) needs to be on (another green light but this time on the toggle switch). Another possibility is that the toggle switch that needs to be flipped to "on" inside your aft storage locker or on your shore connection power post is "off." If any of these are not confirmed you will simply drain down the starboard battery bank.
 
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Which battery bank feeds the house on our boat? I am guessing starboard. The reason for my question:

We recently replaced our 4 engine cranking batteries. Since then, I have twice run down the starboard side so low that the starboard engine would not crank. This was on mild days when we did not have the genny running. This never happened with the old batteries (how frustrating is that). Around the same time, I noticed that my fridge and freezer are not keeping cold on 12V. They work fine on genny or shore power, but not on 12V.

I am guessing that one of my new starboard batteries is weak or bad, and can't keep up with the current draw of the fridge, freezer, lights, and stereo. The old batteries (6 years old when replaced) handled that load fine and would fire the engine up without hesitation.

Note that I *always* combine both battery banks (emergency start) when starting the engines.

Thanks, all.
Hi Mightychan....looking back on your postings and questions I noticed a "common theme" in that all of your concerns point to your batteries as the source of your boat issues. From the bow thruster failure, to the weak starboard bank, to the refrigerator, to the tachometer jumping when you key the mic...and then I read about 6 year old batteries.... I think if you replace your batteries (all of them) and then follow the procedures discussed above, most, if not all of these problems will disappear. My last post assumed you had good batteries. Remember that as batteries age, especially batteries that aren't recharged constantly, plates on the inside degrade and can no longer hold charge. As such, part of routine maintenance of the boat is changing to fresh batteries every 4 seasons. That's my 2 cents....As always we are here to help :)
 
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Hi there Brewster. I appreciate you taking the time to post back on this. As mentioned in the first sentence of my second paragraph, all 4 engine cranking batteries are new. We have also recently replaced the thruster batteries (which solved that problem). The only battery with age at this point is the genny start unit, and my understanding is that it is on a separate circuit so it could not be the cause of the current problem.

I am headed to the boat today and plan to test the 4 engine start units to see if perhaps I have a defective one, and check all the connections. And here is an odd little twist...the "tach jump" problem (which I have chosen to ignore for now), I never noticed *until* the new batteries we installed.

Totally agree with you on the "every 4 seasons" idea. We were lucky to get six out of the old set!

Cheers, and thanks again for all your help and input.

Hi Mightychan....looking back on your postings and questions I noticed a "common theme" in that all of your concerns point to your batteries as the source of your boat issues. From the bow thruster failure, to the weak starboard bank, to the refrigerator, to the tachometer jumping when you key the mic...and then I read about 6 year old batteries.... I think if you replace your batteries (all of them) and then follow the procedures discussed above, most, if not all of these problems will disappear. My last post assumed you had good batteries. Remember that as batteries age, especially batteries that aren't recharged constantly, plates on the inside degrade and can no longer hold charge. As such, part of routine maintenance of the boat is changing to fresh batteries every 4 seasons. That's my 2 cents....As always we are here to help :)
 
Hi there Brewster. I appreciate you taking the time to post back on this. As mentioned in the first sentence of my second paragraph, all 4 engine cranking batteries are new. We have also recently replaced the thruster batteries (which solved that problem). The only battery with age at this point is the genny start unit, and my understanding is that it is on a separate circuit so it could not be the cause of the current problem.

I am headed to the boat today and plan to test the 4 engine start units to see if perhaps I have a defective one, and check all the connections. And here is an odd little twist...the "tach jump" problem (which I have chosen to ignore for now), I never noticed *until* the new batteries we installed.

Totally agree with you on the "every 4 seasons" idea. We were lucky to get six out of the old set!

Cheers, and thanks again for all your help and input.

Weak batteries can kill alternators, with the generator off, did you happen to notice how many volts you had while the engines were running?

When we purchased our 44DA we knew from the survey the batteries were weak, but good enough to start and run. On first 20 minutes of two day delivery trip home the port alternator stopped working, and we ended up running the generator to keep batteries charged while under way. We replaced the batteries and port alternator, only to have the starboard alternator stop about 6 weeks later. My mechanic pointed to both failures due to the batteries being so low the alternators "over worked".

Right before the starboard stopped working I had noticed one day that under way without the generator/charger running the voltage was just over 12v, where the port was 13+. The next time we went out the voltage was closer to 11v and that was the end of that alternators life!

Th second set of batteries barely lasted 4 seasons, that I blamed on the chargers so swapped batteries and chargers.
 
I think I may have found the problem...
Battery.jpg
This battery is only 2 months old!

SWaterhouse, both alternators were recently rebuilt. The meters show them putting out strong current. But I understand how a weak battery could toast them.

We are still on the original 2005 charger, I am thinking that I need to put that on my list of "soon to do" things.
 
I think I may have found the problem...
View attachment 105081
This battery is only 2 months old!

SWaterhouse, both alternators were recently rebuilt. The meters show them putting out strong current. But I understand how a weak battery could toast them.

We are still on the original 2005 charger, I am thinking that I need to put that on my list of "soon to do" things.
I just replaced mine with similar issues.... not the easiest DIY project
If you go my route the battery lugs on the 1240P are bigger so you have to replace eyelets...another pain.. look at my post #3364 back one page
 
Route cause -Wet floor under rear cockpit seat and in trunk. I noticed this After a heaver rain. Should I be caulking some area? The PO had webbed Grip Lock Tiles on floor in both. I like to find route cause and attack it from there. Have factory slant back canvas now. BTW I am in line for new camper back.
 
Should I be caulking some area? The PO had webbed Grip Lock Tiles on floor in both.

My PO also installed the Grip Lock Tiles in those two locations. I am under the impression that water is supposed to drain through those areas.

Jaybeaux
 
Route cause -Wet floor under rear cockpit seat and in trunk. I noticed this After a heaver rain. Should I be caulking some area? The PO had webbed Grip Lock Tiles on floor in both. I like to find route cause and attack it from there. Have factory slant back canvas now. BTW I am in line for new camper back.

Any water that drains onto the aft seats or the cockpit floor will drain into that area.

If your canvas is getting old it may be leaking through the cloth, or in heavy rains its getting driven in any seams.
 
Any water that drains onto the aft seats or the cockpit floor will drain into that area.

If your canvas is getting old it may be leaking through the cloth, or in heavy rains its getting driven in any seams.

I have the DriDek tiles in mine as it is designed to drain there.....

Bennett
 
Seat and floor inside boat stayed dry. Canvas and zippers no leaks. Just need to find where it is getting in then attempt to solve. And no I will not have a weight watchers meeting on platform in the rain to guide this water out! Did I just say that? My Bad!
 
Seat and floor inside boat stayed dry. Canvas and zippers no leaks. Just need to find where it is getting in then attempt to solve. And no I will not have a weight watchers meeting on platform in the rain to guide this water out! Did I just say that? My Bad!
Several of us have posted about the water that runs along the channel at the base of the window frames (inside cockpit) in heavier rain, then flows directly on to the cockpit floor. Have a look back in this thread and you will see pics. I believe it is due to gapping of the seal on the windshield base. When I have time I will look for the pictures.
 
Several of us have posted about the water that runs along the channel at the base of the window frames (inside cockpit) in heavier rain, then flows directly on to the cockpit floor. Have a look back in this thread and you will see pics. I believe it is due to gapping of the seal on the windshield base. When I have time I will look for the pictures.
I have posted the question for a solution with pics.... but no one gave me a definitive answer.
I just replaced all my rubber screw cover molding at it didn’t make a difference
 
I have posted the question for a solution with pics.... but no one gave me a definitive answer.
I just replaced all my rubber screw cover molding at it didn’t make a difference
I have had this issue for several years too. Escapade, this is likely what you have too. In heavy rain water runs like a river right down the channels, at the base of the windshield (port more than starboard), then on to the sink top, then right on to the floor. I always assumed it was the worn and shrunken windshield frame screw cover molding. Perhaps its deteriorated caulking at the windshield base instead?
 
I have had this issue for several years too. Escapade, this is likely what you have too. In heavy rain water runs like a river right down the channels, at the base of the windshield (port more than starboard), then on to the sink top, then right on to the floor. I always assumed it was the worn and shrunken windshield frame screw cover molding. Perhaps its deteriorated caulking at the windshield base instead?
Where the window frame V's... I had a gap to what I thought was to let water out but I felt it was letting water in... I siliconed over the gap and still got water.
 
Where the window frame V's... I had a gap to what I thought was to let water out but I felt it was letting water in... I siliconed over the gap and still got water.

That gap is to let water out.....my boat is in a covered slip so I get minimal water on the inside and what I do drains out of that gap....

Bennett
 
That gap is to let water out.....my boat is in a covered slip so I get minimal water on the inside and what I do drains out of that gap....

Bennett
Ya I know that is the intent...but mine would pool on both the inside and outside ...like there isnt a slant
 
Thank you for the input, you all know where I'll be the next rain fall. Both areas are clean and dry now.
 
I also fought the windshield issue, but even worse since my isinglass was shot and leaked like a sieve onto the dashboard.

I also think it wicks through the canvas of the slant back. The canvas touches the top of the aft seat back cushion, or at least it did on mine, I would often notice a ton of water sitting under the aft cushions after a rain even though the cockpit itself was dry.

In the end the fix is easy, add a dry deck grid on the floor to keep items off the floor. You should anyway as any water you use to wash the cockpit goes through that area anyway.
 
I also fought the windshield issue, but even worse since my isinglass was shot and leaked like a sieve onto the dashboard.

I also think it wicks through the canvas of the slant back. The canvas touches the top of the aft seat back cushion, or at least it did on mine, I would often notice a ton of water sitting under the aft cushions after a rain even though the cockpit itself was dry.

In the end the fix is easy, add a dry deck grid on the floor to keep items off the floor. You should anyway as any water you use to wash the cockpit goes through that area anyway.

This is an older thread but some owners have resealed the screws when they replaced the screw cover molding, doing every other screw so there is no shift in the windshield. I have the same issue with the water intrusion and will try this hopefully next week and report back.

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/windshield-screw-cover.86145/page-2#post-1026628
 

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