Blown284
Well-Known Member
Update: I replaced the bellows, the duck bill valves and all the O-Rings. However, I am getting a leak at the top of the pump where the 6 bolts are and have no idea why. Anyone have a clue?
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VG4 right?Update: I replaced the bellows, the duck bill valves and all the O-Rings. However, I am getting a leak at the top of the pump where the 6 bolts are and have no idea why. Anyone have a clue?
Yea it is the pump housing not seating properly. I installed that O-Ring but then it kept dropping down into the bellows... NOT FUN! Turns out that being (!$!$#!#$!#) and rushing to get this job done, I used my drill to speed through getting the screws on and off and have stripped a few of them pretty good. I might end up having to just get a new top piece ..... can't anything be easy? LOL.VG4 right?
First those two nested duckbills that install down into the box must be installed dry - no lube at all and they must nest into the groove in the spacer and the groove on the pump housing interface. Otherwise they will not allow the pump housing to properly seat and seal on the O-Ring. Now that O-ring needs a very light coat of silicone grease. If the pump housing rocks when in place before the bolts are installed then the duckbills are not correctly seated. The second thing and it's tricky is the O-Ring seal between the bellows and pump top housing. Again a light coat of silicone grease then install it inside of the bellows and slide it on to the pump top before putting the top with the retaining rings down on the pump housing. The trick here is to align the actuating rod so the motor easily installs and is perfectly aligned for the bearing to slide right in.
The alarm still sounds. Just can’t read the screen. And the $ isn’t a problem. It’s finding someone here in Nashville that’s qualified and willing to tackle the re-fit. So far no luck. It if I can find a replacement sea ray display panel I can swap out myself.You really need something to let you know if there is an issue going on in the bilge and it's being flooded. A couple grand isn't worth the potential consequences. Especially in the insurance world we live in now.
I bought my replacement DDU from a Sea Ray dealer. But it was 8 years ago and was a part still installed on their new boats at the time.The alarm still sounds. Just can’t read the screen. And the $ isn’t a problem. It’s finding someone here in Nashville that’s qualified and willing to tackle the re-fit. So far no luck. It if I can find a replacement sea ray display panel I can swap out myself.
Also consider taking it to a tv repair shop to see if they can replace the display…
Yea it is the pump housing not seating properly. I installed that O-Ring but then it kept dropping down into the bellows... NOT FUN! Turns out that being (!$!$#!#$!#) and rushing to get this job done, I used my drill to speed through getting the screws on and off and have stripped a few of them pretty good. I might end up having to just get a new top piece ..... can't anything be easy? LOL.
100%. I have a new assembly enroute.Likely your issue, the video instructions I watched were very specific about not using a drill/driver because they don't need to be that tight and can easily be stripped!
All fixed now with reboot unitLikely your issue, the video instructions I watched were very specific about not using a drill/driver because they don't need to be that tight and can easily be stripped!
I was wondering which tank the gauge reads from? Why is there a senor in both tanks?More questions about the head and the sensor that reads (empty / half full / full). Safe to say that the actual sensor is in the master tank itself? Easy to get out? I suspect I need to clean it... my waste tank is empty but reading 1/2 full.
I am *thinking* it's in the main tank because when you turn off the other "guest head", nothing shows up on your panel.I was wondering which tank the gauge reads from? Why is there a senor in both tanks?
I did the replacement 3 years ago. (Did you check Nova Kool? Same footprint, larger fridge.) It was a squeeze but do-able for two guys. Door lower track was fussy.Hi Everyone. I'm planning to replace my old Norcold fridge with the Vitrifigo 2600i. Before it gets here, I've ordered new tracks/truck rollers (top 25mm and bottom 23mm). I also have moving blankets for the companionway and down the steps where the new fridge will go. Anything else I need/should consider before tackling this job? is it easy to remove the old rollers and replace them? Any gotcha's I need to be aware of?
Yes I looked at it and it was an option. I am in favor of the same type setup as the nor cold (freezer up top vs. bottom). Yes, I know NOVAKOOK has a little bit more space and also could not find stainless Nova KOOL. Oh well... the Vitrifigo should work better than the tired 20 year old NORCOLD.I did the replacement 3 years ago. (Did you check Nova Kool? Same footprint, larger fridge.) It was a squeeze but do-able for two guys. Door lower track was fussy.
Tim,Yes I looked at it and it was an option. I am in favor of the same type setup as the nor cold (freezer up top vs. bottom). Yes, I know NOVAKOOK has a little bit more space and also could not find stainless Nova KOOL. Oh well... the Vitrifigo should work better than the tired 20 year old NORCOLD.
How much fun was it to replace the roller cams on the sliding doors from a 1-10 scale?