460 DA Owners Thread

[Jaws]

When you re-did the panel how did you re-attach it? The new panels do not come with the machine screws epoxied

I had Technographix do the panels and couldn't be happier. They attached the machined studs in exactly the correct spots. I previously specified the components and spacing and Sam sent a layout for approval.
The only challenge was to determine what sequence to attach components and panel. I left the VHF out until the end after installing everything else, then reached up from below to secure the radio.
Hope that helps.

 

[Blown284]

Anyone know if there is a separate fuse for the air conditioner pump relay? If so, where is it located?

 

[Joint Custody]

I posed this question before and my apologies for asking again as I can't find the the post to the post.

I will be serving my aftercoolers in a couple of week. Obviously the port one on a 460 is easy to get to .
Those Of you that have done it. Could you walk me through the best and easiest way to remove the starboard one.
Thanks for the help.

Bump!

 

[Captain Brian]

I had Technographix do the panels and couldn't be happier. They attached the machined studs in exactly the correct spots. I previously specified the components and spacing and Sam sent a layout for approval.
The only challenge was to determine what sequence to attach components and panel. I left the VHF out until the end after installing everything else, then reached up from below to secure the radio.
Hope that helps.

I just purchased the new panels from Flounder Pounder and they did not attach any studs. Once I get the old one off I will need to epoxy new studs on to it. Flounder Pounder was great to deal with, they asked what new electronics I was going to add and they cut out the openings for me. I can't wait till spring to start the retrofit.

 

[Captain Brian]

Has anyone pulled their engine air intake side vents out to re-bed them? I will be pulling mine this spring and looking for any advice on how they come out.

Thanks!

 

[TN370]

So I had one of my ER blowers go out. The two installed are the yellowtail inline type. I was told these move more air and are quieter. So I thought “ok let’s upgrade”. Now that I’m into replacing the first one I’m learning that these draw more amps than the breaker will allow. They draw 11 amps on a 6 amp breaker. SO, do I upgrade the breaker? Or just return these and put back the yellowtails? These are quiet a bit more $ so I won’t feel bad returning them…

 

[ttmott]

So I had one of my ER blowers go out. The two installed are the yellowtail inline type. I was told these move more air and are quieter. So I thought “ok let’s upgrade”. Now that I’m into replacing the first one I’m learning that these draw more amps than the breaker will allow. They draw 11 amps on a 6 amp breaker. SO, do I upgrade the breaker? Or just return these and put back the yellowtails? These are quiet a bit more $ so I won’t feel bad returning them…

You'll really like the Jabsco continuous duty. Change the circuit breakers to12 amp. The wiring will be just fine.
I did it and never looked back. My only concern was if the blower control module could take the extra current. So far no issues.

 

[TN370]

You'll really like the Jabsco continuous duty. Change the circuit breakers to12 amp. The wiring will be just fine.
I did it and never looked back. My only concern was if the blower control module could take the extra current. So far no issues.

I was afraid someone would say that. I’ll stick with the plan. Glad to hear you’ve done it without any problems.
Now… to find those breakers…
If you know where to order them please point that way. Thanks!

 

[ttmott]

These are 10 amp that I used albeit yellow - couldn't find the black with red rockers.
https://fpmarine.com/products/ao1-c...-symbols-ign-protected?variant=46206614208799
You'll have to take a look on the configuration on the back but mine are 10-32 screw Buss type.
They are restricted OFF for use in a main Breaker Panel - the ones in yellow in this pic -

 

[TN370]

I have a crack in this this panel. My local canvas shop says the thickest her can get is 60 mil but thinks this might be thicker. And he wants $1350 to do it in 60 mil because he has to order a minimum order of 3 large sheets. Does anyone know a canvas shop I can send this to that might have this thinker glass in in stock and typically works with it?

 

[Jaws]

Okay, a couple of comments here because I have just been through it, once again. The original canvas had vinyl in there from the factory. I had it changed out in 2011 to polycarbonate and it was Makrolon AR. It might have been 60 gauge. The vendor did a great job in SE Michigan and eliminated two of the joints, leaving seams and zippers only around that smaller center panel. If you're doing it over, I suggest to eliminate two seams. The job was $2500 back in 2011.

Seven years later, UV finally killed it and started cracking it. So, I had just the panels replaced but this time with Tuffak (new name for Makrolon) GP or General Purpose. It was only 40 gauge and scratched but deteriorated at six years. The cost to replace the panels in total (remember that I have three panels) was just a hair over $1000 in 2018.

So this year on the replacement was a new product called Tuffak Marine 5 which is both AR, Abrasion Resistant, and UV protected. Great stuff, right? But at three sheets to a set you might as well replace everything. Material alone was $2K, labor was stupidly expensive because it is 60 gauge and the guy wasn't used to that. (Marine 5 also has 80 gauge.)

So, my advice to you is either just replace the one panel with a 40 gauge General Purpose and get a few years out of it (the cheap method), OR bite the bullet, re-do the framework to three panels, it will look a lot better, and get something like Tuffak Marine 5 with a 10 year expectation. Picture below from a couple of years back showing three panels with the 40 gauge Tuffak GP. I have just replaced it with 60 gauge Tuffak Marine 5. Picture will follow in the future.

 

[TN370]

I was afraid someone would say that. I’ll stick with the plan. Glad to hear you’ve done it without any problems.
Now… to find those breakers…
If you know where to order them please point that way. Thanks!

Got em done. Here some pics of what I did for anyone else wishing to tackle it.

 

[Dougvol]

Hello. What is the best transmission fluid to use. SAE 30 but no idea what is the best to put in. TIA

 

[ttmott]

Got em done. Here some pics of what I did for anyone else wishing to tackle it.

Did you already purchase the breakers? I said 10 amp but actually 20 amp. Sorry for the error. The 10 amp will most likely work however.

 

[dtfeld]

Did you already purchase the breakers? I said 10 amp but actually 20 amp. Sorry for the error. The 10 amp will most likely work however.

They are also available in red if the color matching matter.

 

[TN370]

Did you already purchase the breakers? I said 10 amp but actually 20 amp. Sorry for the error. The 10 amp will most likely work however.

Yes I found 10 amp ones on FP that matched.

 

[TN370]

Replaced my old VHF. Now I have this hole to fix. I could just replace the panel and have it blank. But also considering having a cubby hole or glovebox with a hatch made out of starboard.
If I replace the panel I feel like I need to install something in it. But I don’t know what I’m missing.
Would love to hear some ideas!

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

Replaced my old VHF. Now I have this hole to fix. I could just replace the panel and have it blank. But also considering having a cubby hole or glovebox with a hatch made out of starboard.
If I replace the panel I feel like I need to install something in it. But I don’t know what I’m missing.
Would love to hear some ideas!

Fusion Entertainment System and a BOREL raw water alarm for each engine, genny and backup high bilge.

Garmin Fusion® Apollo™ MS-RA770 Marine Stereo | Head Unit

Fusion Apollo RA770 is a marine entertainment system with the world’s first touchscreen marine stereo with AirPlay® 2 software feature & built-in Wi-Fi® connectivity.

www.garmin.com

Borel Manufacturing – Marine products for professional and recreational use.

BEST !

RWS

 

[TN370]

Fusion Entertainment System and a BOREL raw water alarm for each engine, genny and backup high bilge.

Garmin Fusion® Apollo™ MS-RA770 Marine Stereo | Head Unit

Fusion Apollo RA770 is a marine entertainment system with the world’s first touchscreen marine stereo with AirPlay® 2 software feature & built-in Wi-Fi® connectivity.

www.garmin.com

Borel Manufacturing – Marine products for professional and recreational use.

BEST !

RWS

I have a fusion 770 just outside of the picture beside the sliding door. I put a remote station for it at the helm. You can see it in the pic just to the right of the throttles. So I’m covered there.
That alarm isn’t a bad idea but I’m pretty sure there’s already alarms for raw water temp in the sea ray system monitor.

 

[TN370]

Replaced my old VHF. Now I have this hole to fix. I could just replace the panel and have it blank. But also considering having a cubby hole or glovebox with a hatch made out of starboard.
If I replace the panel I feel like I need to install something in it. But I don’t know what I’m missing.
Would love to hear some ideas!

I thought about adding a second MFD below the existing one. Would be tricky since the surface of the dash isn’t level across these two panels. But I think I could build it up by layering in dash panels where needed. Anyone have dual displays? Curious if you really use both? Map on one and night vision camera on the other maybe?