480 DB Owners Club

It seems to me that exiting the marina at 190 degrees is too high a temp. Definitely check or change impellers. Flush systems for barnacles and exit marina again. Don’t go over 1000rpm until temp reaches 180 if they are Cummins
 
Does anyone know the Taylor made gasket number for the side windows on the 480 DB? I could have sworn it was posted somewhere here but can't find it.
 
Does anyone know the Taylor made gasket number for the side windows on the 480 DB? I could have sworn it was posted somewhere here but can't find it.
So post 1168 from this thread (Jan 15, 2015) had the info but it's gone now.
 
So post 1168 from this thread (Jan 15, 2015) had the info but it's gone now.
Found it. I'm an idiot. Here is the post hidden is some other database.

Thanks to everyone for the replies. Yesterday I called Taylor Made and spoke with Andy Coco who was extremely helpful. The part # for the side window gasket is #41100011 (both port and SB sides). The part # for the front window gasket (all 3 pieces) is #8319400. The cost is $2.92/ft and $2.70/ft, respectively. As a previous poster noted, there is also a $25 handling fee plus freight. Andy was also kind enough to email the exact drawings from the company who made the die. I'll cut a small piece out of each and compare to the drawings before ordering. If anyone wants a copy of the drawings, send me a pm with your email. Next week, I have someone coming out to caulk the entire boat, top to bottom. He is coming with a strong recommendation and that's the majority of the type of work he does (also repairs/paints window frames that are blistered or need paint). Although I do not have any leaks coming inside the boat, my caulk seems to be drying out and cracking. The window seal on the SB side has hardened and shrunk. The port side still seems pretty good and the front windows is in between. I'll order all the material and have my caulk guy replace the bad side first to see how well he does and what issues we have. Then, I'll evaluate whether or not to continue with the other windows.
 
Generator question.

I fired up the Westerbeke genny today and it ran fine. I powered up the boat and poof….nothing. The genny ran but I got no power in the boat. Nothing. No air conditioning or outlets. I checked the breaker on the genny and it was not tripped. The breakers on the panels looked fine also.

Is there another breaker somewhere that I’m not seeing? Any help or ideas is appreciated.
 
Generator question.

I fired up the Westerbeke genny today and it ran fine. I powered up the boat and poof….nothing. The genny ran but I got no power in the boat. Nothing. No air conditioning or outlets. I checked the breaker on the genny and it was not tripped. The breakers on the panels looked fine also.

Is there another breaker somewhere that I’m not seeing? Any help or ideas is appreciated.
Nope. You can check the diodes/stators for amperage, but it sounds like you lost the back end. I had mine rebuilt about 3 years ago. Basically the windings lose connection as the salt air will slowly rust them up and then we use on the weekends. This will wear them down over time.
 
Nope. You can check the diodes/stators for amperage, but it sounds like you lost the back end. I had mine rebuilt about 3 years ago. Basically the windings lose connection as the salt air will slowly rust them up and then we use on the weekends. This will wear them down over time.
I have a 9.4BTBD Westerbeke. I looked for a capacitor and did not find one. I’m a lifelong freshwater boat so the salt is not the issue. If the back end is gone, rebuild it or buy a new genny? My genny has over 5000 hours.

Keith
 
Found it. I'm an idiot. Here is the post hidden is some other database.

Thanks to everyone for the replies. Yesterday I called Taylor Made and spoke with Andy Coco who was extremely helpful. The part # for the side window gasket is #41100011 (both port and SB sides). The part # for the front window gasket (all 3 pieces) is #8319400. The cost is $2.92/ft and $2.70/ft, respectively. As a previous poster noted, there is also a $25 handling fee plus freight. Andy was also kind enough to email the exact drawings from the company who made the die. I'll cut a small piece out of each and compare to the drawings before ordering. If anyone wants a copy of the drawings, send me a pm with your email. Next week, I have someone coming out to caulk the entire boat, top to bottom. He is coming with a strong recommendation and that's the majority of the type of work he does (also repairs/paints window frames that are blistered or need paint). Although I do not have any leaks coming inside the boat, my caulk seems to be drying out and cracking. The window seal on the SB side has hardened and shrunk. The port side still seems pretty good and the front windows is in between. I'll order all the material and have my caulk guy replace the bad side first to see how well he does and what issues we have. Then, I'll evaluate whether or not to continue with the other windows.
Hi Four Suns - Thank you for your post. I need to re-seal front windshield and both side windows; and small windscreen surround in the sedan bridge (2001 480 DB). I have done significant researched and still confused if there is another vinyl gasket/seal underneath the trim (#8319400) for the front windshields (x3) or just caulking used to bed the glass into the frame. Also not sure if I have leak between frame and fiberglass - wondering if I need to remove window frame to re-seal?. Would you be so kind as to send me Andy Coco's email and the drawings; and it would be good to see what your 'expert caulk guy' thinks?. I am new to this group and cannot see how to Personal Message (PM) - thanks in advance
 
clip_image004.png

Thanks Q-T :)

The bow thruster zinc is part # SET0151 (BP-195) .

https://www.vetus-shop.com/vetus-bow-thruster-anode-for-130160-kgf-p-1075.html
 
480 DB Bow Thruster again.... got the zinc only to find out that there's a blade missing on the thruster's prop and I need to order one. From the multi-model Vetus documentation on board, I'm deducing that I have a 130 kgf installed but have to take off covers to actually see the unit. Can anyone confirm that the 480 DBs have Vetus 130 kgf bow thrusters? TIA...

Hi CLC3
My Part Manual list = 1047422 BOW THRUSTER, 130/160KGF 24VDC 9.84"TUNNEL
Which I am 90% sure is the Vetus 130 you refer to above - seed attached manual and parts listed below - Hope this helps


The bow thruster zinc is part # SET0151 (BP-195) .

https://www.vetus-shop.com/vetus-bow-thruster-anode-for-130160-kgf-p-1075.html

The Prop part # is SET0090 part is the same for both 130 and 160 kgf

https://www.vetus-shop.com/vetus-bow-thruster-propeller-blade-dia250mm-for-125130160k-p-948.html

Gear Oil:

https://www.vetus-shop.com/vetus-special-gearbox-oil-ep90-05-litre-p-2241.html

The complete tail piece part # is SET0080:

https://www.vetus-shop.com/lower-unit-tailpiece-for-vetus-bow-thruster-130-andamp-160-ab-p-2633.html
 

Attachments

  • Vetus 23,50,80,130kgf manual.pdf
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Hi Four Suns - Thank you for your post. I need to re-seal front windshield and both side windows; and small windscreen surround in the sedan bridge (2001 480 DB). I have done significant researched and still confused if there is another vinyl gasket/seal underneath the trim (#8319400) for the front windshields (x3) or just caulking used to bed the glass into the frame. Also not sure if I have leak between frame and fiberglass - wondering if I need to remove window frame to re-seal?. Would you be so kind as to send me Andy Coco's email and the drawings; and it would be good to see what your 'expert caulk guy' thinks?. I am new to this group and cannot see how to Personal Message (PM) - thanks in advance

You do not NEED to remove the windshield to re-bed it, but you do need to remove as much caulking as possible. The vinyl Taylormade gasket is really just a trim / screw cover and provides no seal. You will find that it is leaking where the aluminum windshield hold down tabs ("retaining clip" in the below picture) are located. I'll post a drawing from Taylormade that shows the seal.

You might also like to read through this thread (from a 40 Sedan Bridge owner which uses the same windshield mounting system): http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/re-bedding-front-cabin-windshield.71514/
 
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Here is the drawing for the visible vinyl trim piece. I bought some a few weeks back and is still available.

51322233109_85a2218934_b.jpg


Here is a section of a flyer that shows a cross section of how our windows are installed. Our windshield is circled in red.

51320779617_1e90f7ff36_b.jpg
 
51322290999_87f26392fb_b.jpg

So, if you can seen the cracks near the valve block on the Seastar cylinder, it's obviously time to replace this line. I know that for a fact due to the other end letting go while running a slalom course on plane thru the crab pot infested Albemarle Sound last week.

Luckily, it is a return / suction line, but the 30 PSI in the reservoir spewed out hydraulic juice all over the starboard side of the engine room.

When the hose gave way, the leak happened near the cooler fitting, right under the turbo and happened to squirt in a downward direction. I hate to think what may have happened if it had shot at the turbo!

I'm guessing I should probably replace all these blue hoses that snake all through the engine room (Engine oil, trans oil, even fuel (I think)) anybody got any tips or have done this yet? I'm thinking that the vintage of our boats being what they are, if you haven't done this, it may be something you want to closely inspect.
 
Just found this post from Gary (Four Suns) about his steering hydraulic failure... From 2007! I guess I got my moneys worth out of the Aeroquip FC332-08 hose
 
Here is the drawing for the visible vinyl trim piece. I bought some a few weeks back and is still available.

51322233109_85a2218934_b.jpg


Here is a section of a flyer that shows a cross section of how our windows are installed. Our windshield is circled in red.

51320779617_1e90f7ff36_b.jpg
I hate these windows. The retaining tabs will break. I have sealed mine every year and when I get caught in heavy seas, they leak again. This is such a flex point for these boats. If I knew I could get good resale I would fiberglass them in and add more storage. I am having a yard remove them completely and rebuild the entire process this fall. Did I mention I hate these windows and they are a pint of potential water intrusion.
 
I hate these windows. The retaining tabs will break. I have sealed mine every year and when I get caught in heavy seas, they leak again. This is such a flex point for these boats. If I knew I could get good resale I would fiberglass them in and add more storage. I am having a yard remove them completely and rebuild the entire process this fall. Did I mention I hate these windows and they are a pint of potential water intrusion.

Is this possibly a application for some black 5200 after removing the moldings without taking the windows out?
I guess if you ever had to replace the glass it would be tough but I thought I heard recently that there is something out there that will break down the 5200 if needed.
Just trying to learn, thanks.

Edit: Or maybe some of this. https://www.amazon.com/3M-08609-Win...ocphy=9007455&hvtargid=pla-434495050258&psc=1
 
Here is the drawing for the visible vinyl trim piece. I bought some a few weeks back and is still available.

51322233109_85a2218934_b.jpg


Here is a section of a flyer that shows a cross section of how our windows are installed. Our windshield is circled in red.

51320779617_1e90f7ff36_b.jpg
Excellent - Thanks Seadawg - much appreciated. The drawings are very helpful
I will wait for summer (November here in WA), remove as much caulking as possible and I am thinking of removing or partially removing the broken 'retaining clips' that show signs of leaking; and re-caulk (3M Window-Weld Super Fast Urethane, Black); and then replace the seal (#8319400).
I will post some photos etc
Thanks again mate - much appreciated
 
Here is the drawing for the visible vinyl trim piece. I bought some a few weeks back and is still available.

51322233109_85a2218934_b.jpg


Here is a section of a flyer that shows a cross section of how our windows are installed. Our windshield is circled in red.

51320779617_1e90f7ff36_b.jpg
Hi SeadawgVB,
I have looked at previous threads etc.....still a little unsure on the side windows(Port and Starboard) and the smaller perspex windscreen (sedan bridge upstairs).
If you have the info easily available, can you please confirm the Taylor Made part numbers are for;
- Trim for the Side Windows (I think they are 41100011)
- Vinyl Assembly for Smaller perspex windscreen (below clears) in the Sedan Bridge (I think either 8233980 (1" x 1"); or 8233990 (5/8" x 3/4")). I think this may be called 'Flocked Track' as per your drawings above; and I assume these are to prevent water intrusion/seal.
Thanks in Advance!!
 
Hi All, Does anyone know supplier part number and/or where to source and/or drawings/specification of the gunnel rubrail for 2001 480 DB Sedan Bridge as listed in SeaRay parts manual below;

- item #13, 897322, Rubrail PVC
- 1261379, CAP (Not exactly sure what this is??)
- item#14, 1080100, Insert, Rubrail

upload_2021-7-20_10-50-33.png


upload_2021-7-20_10-49-18.png
 

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