480 DB Owners Club

[steve4566]

With regard to the shower drain in port head... the shower is slow to drain and want to remove drain fitting to snake out. Does the drain pop off or how do you remove? Thanks, Dave

You could try snaking the drain from the sump box up to the drain.

 

[BigStick]

The shower drain covers in the 2003's are not removable, not sure about other years. I used to use a foaming or gel drain cleaner in them once per season and that helped alot. Just get it flushed out of the shower sump thoroughly after the recommended time.

Thanks. Will try that.

 

[BigStick]

You could try snaking the drain from the sump box up to the drain.

Thanks, but thought it was not possible when looking at the sump drain. Will re-look. Thanks.

 

[RichTurn]

I did the sink mod. I don't think I would have ever figured out where SeaRay hid the screws, so thank you very much for the info.

With that said, here are the details of the mod...

The first step is to remove the backrest in the starboard stateroom. There are screws in the gap between the two 'cushions'.

Next is to remove a ceiling panel. The screws are well hidden, You can see how they slit the material and then tucked it in to hide the screws.

Then the corner piece can come out. A single screw holds it in place using the same method.

Then you can see the drain line for the galley sink. Shown below is after I cut the line and added the thru-hull.

The thru-hull I used is a 1-1/2" right angle from Groco.

One step that I didn't get to yet is to cap the port on the sump box. I think I will use a rubber Fernco cap. I may leave the unused section of line in place if it is difficult to remove, I would prefer to remove it, but it isn't hurting anything.

Then put it all back together in reverse order. I used a plastic butter knife to tuck the upholstery back in by the screws.


This was a pretty simple mod, It's so nice now knowing that whatever food scraps, etc. that gets washed down the galley sink goes straight overboard and doesn't sit in the sump and rot.

Thanks again Aaron for helping me with this mod...

Hi Greg - any chance you still have the links for this post? They are dead now, although I saw this post last year and they were functional IDKW ...

We have step 1 done and stuck already without a better idea of what to look for, where. Thanks in advance!

 

[Ericinmich]

Dripping rudder shaft question.

First off, they are a bitch to get to, my arms barely reach the area. Last year both sides had a small amount of dripping into that area, standing water that would flow into bildge over time. Not much, but not dry. Previous own stated they where tightend down as far as they could, I believe him. So the options are:

1. Leave them drip a bit, accept standing water in that area. Maybe try to tighten them a bit but it's likely they are origonal (2007 boat).

2. Try to R&R myself with new rope seal. I'm not sure how I can do that without dropping the rudders as I cannot see any way to get old seal out of cup, easier to just drop shaft while out. BTW, this is what the service department said they would do (drop the shafts) if they were going to replace the stuffing.

3. Pay the service department to install dripless rudder seals. I don't know much about them, but they sound great. Or course the bill is 8hrs of work (for both sides), that with parts is about $1850. Basiacly almost two boat units.

Any advice from those who have went down this path?

 

[TNT8808]

Dripping rudder shaft question.

First off, they are a bitch to get to, my arms barely reach the area. Last year both sides had a small amount of dripping into that area, standing water that would flow into bildge over time. Not much, but not dry. Previous own stated they where tightend down as far as they could, I believe him. So the options are:

1. Leave them drip a bit, accept standing water in that area. Maybe try to tighten them a bit but it's likely they are origonal (2007 boat).

2. Try to R&R myself with new rope seal. I'm not sure how I can do that without dropping the rudders as I cannot see any way to get old seal out of cup, easier to just drop shaft while out. BTW, this is what the service department said they would do (drop the shafts) if they were going to replace the stuffing.

3. Pay the service department to install dripless rudder seals. I don't know much about them, but they sound great. Or course the bill is 8hrs of work (for both sides), that with parts is about $1850. Basiacly almost two boat units.

Any advice from those who have went down this path?

i went with the Tides Marine RPB Type J rudder seals at $330 each, and had the marina install. Skinny tech took about 4 hours total at $120 per hour. i've read about others on here that just installed the dry boat bilge system. I prefer no leaks if at all possible. Tides Marine was great to work with, and shipped next day after receiving my existing nut.

-Tom

 

[Ericinmich]

i went with the Tides Marine RPB Type J rudder seals at $330 each, and had the marina install. Skinny tech took about 4 hours total at $120 per hour. i've read about others on here that just installed the dry boat bilge system. I prefer no leaks if at all possible. Tides Marine was great to work with, and shipped next day after receiving my existing nut.

-Tom

Thanks for the reply, I decided to get the dripless rudder seals installed... will report back after launch about (hopefully) the success in keeping that area dry.

 

[steve4566]

Courtesy of Russ. Here's the shower drain info. Thanks Russ!

 

[The crime scene]

I have a leak somewhere in the pressurized power steering system. I have to add fluid every season. I just put in 3/4 quart this week while getting the boat ready for the summer. I found a leak in the pressure gage fitting on the steering rack that is attached to the rudders. I repaired it. Should I be looking at any other obvious places? The odd thing about this leak is I lose fluid but not air pressure. The air pressure stays about 30-35lbs. I don’t know if this is going to fix my issue yet but it explains why my bilge kept getting gunked up….Not 3/4 quart gunked up, but gunked up.

 

[ttmott]

I have a leak somewhere in the pressurized power steering system. I have to add fluid every season. I just put in 3/4 quart this week while getting the boat ready for the summer. I found a leak in the pressure gage fitting on the steering rack that is attached to the rudders. I repaired it. Should I be looking at any other obvious places? The odd thing about this leak is I lose fluid but not air pressure. The air pressure stays about 30-35lbs. I don’t know if this is going to fix my issue yet but it explains why my bilge kept getting gunked up….Not 3/4 quart gunked up, but gunked up.

Oil pooling under the helm?
Rudder actuator seals?
Or it could simply be air in the system.

 

[The crime scene]

I am needing the cylinder numbers on the cockpit bench seat. I have the bench but have never had the cylinders that hold the seat cushions upright when opened. My parts manual doesn’t list them and I’m not sure if the cylinders were factory or added on. I purchased the bench seat years ago with one bracket attached to the fiberglass base. The open and closed lengths will work if there are not any visible numbers.

Keith

 

[Brent Nutting]

I am needing the cylinder numbers on the cockpit bench seat. I have the bench but have never had the cylinders that hold the seat cushions upright when opened. My parts manual doesn’t list them and I’m not sure if the cylinders were factory or added on. I purchased the bench seat years ago with one bracket attached to the fiberglass base. The open and closed lengths will work if there are not any visible numbers.

Keith

Keith, sorry ours doesn't have the cylinders / air shocks that support the bench in the open position.

 

[rlynch03]

I just had all of mine changed due to a lightning strike. One was an original NMEA 0183 depth (P19 series) and the other was a P79 in-hull that interfaced with the Raymarine DSM300 sounder. As all of the nav equipment was being changed to Garmin we went with a single Garmin GT23-TH which offered many features the system could take advantage of like CHIRP Clearvu. I looked at the Garmin Panoptix but boat speed was essentially limited to 5 knots for these transducers to work; so these were out. We had to patch where the original P series was and locate a suitable spot on the hull for the GT23. Ended up the only location that would work was under the port engine. Here are a couple of pics.
View attachment 75310 View attachment 75311

Hey Tom:
Why did you decide to install the GT23M-TH off-center and not in the same location as the old P that was mounted in the middle of the ship? I am ordering either the GT23 or GT21 once I learn what is the real difference.

Thanks
Rich

 

[ttmott]

Hey Rich
It hangs down quite a ways below the hull. I didn't want it below the keel.

 

[ttmott]

Hey Tom:
Why did you decide to install the GT23M-TH off-center and not in the same location as the old P that was mounted in the middle of the ship? I am ordering either the GT23 or GT21 once I learn what is the real difference.

Thanks
Rich

Most important is find a location where the water flow is clean. Turbulence and bubbles are bad. One thing right next to the OEM location on my boat is the engine raw water pickup grates (pic below showing the filled hole). Those would have probably messed with the sounder. The location picked was the cleanest part of the hull and up from the keel. You'd want to install the sounder well aft and inboard of where the boat lifts out of the water yet well in front and away from shafts, props, rudders, grates, etc. On my boat under the port motor at the forward part of the oil pan was the best compromise of all the limitations.

 

[LattitudeAdjustment]

Has anyone replaced the switch on their Cablemaster system recently? I need to know what type of switch to purchase, if it is double pole, single pole etc. It pulls the cable in OK, but does not let cable out most of the time.

Fortunately I have a 25' extension which works out well. The switch is in the transom trunk which is prone to salt-water air intrusion and my guess is the switch contacts have gone bad. Thanks for any help or suggestions.

Vince

 

[Tim Fila]

Has anyone replaced the switch on their Cablemaster system recently? I need to know what type of switch to purchase, if it is double pole, single pole etc. It pulls the cable in OK, but does not let cable out most of the time.

Fortunately I have a 25' extension which works out well. The switch is in the transom trunk which is prone to salt-water air intrusion and my guess is the switch contacts have gone bad. Thanks for any help or suggestions.

Vince

Does it not have a remote? If you do not have a fob, look to see if there is a receiver. The fob is the way to go!

Tim

 

[LattitudeAdjustment]

I do have a fob. I got two fobs when I purchased the boat, but the owner did not know much about them. He thought the fob was for the swim platform which didn't make sense to me. If I recall, it has a beige. black and teal color to it, kidney shaped. I will have to find it to take a picture of it.

TY for answering my post.
Vince

 

[Tim Fila]

This is what they look like. Will probably need a new battery.

Here is the manual https://www.glendinningprods.com/wp...ster_CM_-_Remote_Control_Programing_Guide.pdf

Tim

 

[LattitudeAdjustment]

I do not have that remote, so maybe my remote is for the swim platform. Here is a picture of the remote. If anyone recognizes it, please LMK. I will call the 800 # on the back of the fob and maybe they can help me ID the unit.

Thanks for your help.

V