500/520 DB official thread

SO I got the cables run. As I asked earlier, when I am ready to thread the thermocouple to the exhaust, I'm to use a copper based thread sealant. When I look for this, I find thread sealants up to 400 degrees, then they call it anti-seize lubricant up to 1800. Is this what I want? An anti seize lube?
Thank goodness for a son...
 

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j98052 said:
So I came up with a solution, after hours of e-mailing with Carling and their dealers. While they make a switch with a rocker guard, they don’t seem to sell them. But I did discover out that their Contura switches all have the same housing, so you can swap the front body (with the switch) onto a different housing. And I found that Blue Sea makes a couple of switches, for their battery monitoring system, that have a Carling base, and body with switch guards. I took the front off of two of them (one is mom-off-mom for the lift, the other is on-off for the light), and mounted them to the existing switch housings. The only downside is that I couldn’t find them in white, but the wife said she was OK with black switches if it meant people would stop leaning against them.

If anyone wants I can send the Blue Sea part numbers. I think the cost for both was less than $50. View attachment 66820
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Yes could you either post the part numbers or pm them to me ? Thank you.
 
What do you guys do for seasonal care of the gelcoat? I had awl-grip on the 320. Easy to keep clean. So just wash? Need to wax during the season?
I let the dealer do all of the oil changes etc. in the fall as part of the sales deal, so if anyone has, or will take video of themselves doing it anytime, I'd like to learn how to do it. I've got a 12 year old son (the one buried in the TV cabinet) who likes helping with this stuff, so why should I pay the yard? Good times together. Mike
 
spikedaddy99 said:
2 questions:
I'm installing EGT probes tomorrow. I found the inlet ports under a type of insulation "collar" after the turbo. Did you replace the collar, and did you put any type of thread tape on the probe assembly to seal that thermocouple threads? If so, what type?

Mike
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I never had the collars on my exhaust so there should be no harm in removing them. I didn't use anything on the pipe threads during installation.
 
Havana Shamrock said:
Yes could you either post the part numbers or pm them to me ? Thank you.
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I used these (1 for light, 1 for lift):

https://www.fisheriessupply.com/blue-sea-systems-remote-control-contura-switch-2155
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/blue-sea-systems-ml-series-remote-control-contura-switches

I carefully used a knife to remove the front of the switch. There are 2 tiny springs and the metal rocker (that activates the circuit) - take note of where those are. It might be easier to remove the switch first, but the hydraulic lift has 8 connectors.
 
j98052 said:
I used these (1 for light, 1 for lift):

https://www.fisheriessupply.com/blue-sea-systems-remote-control-contura-switch-2155
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/blue-sea-systems-ml-series-remote-control-contura-switches

I carefully used a knife to remove the front of the switch. There are 2 tiny springs and the metal rocker (that activates the circuit) - take note of where those are. It might be easier to remove the switch first, but the hydraulic lift has 8 connectors.
Click to expand...

After looking at the switches it might bother me that they have battery icons I wish they at least offered a light bulb icon or similar. I know It will bother me ( I’m working through these things) I like the design though ARGH
 
Havana Shamrock said:
After looking at the switches it might bother me that they have battery icons I wish they at least offered a light bulb icon or similar. I know It will bother me ( I’m working through these things) I like the design though ARGH
Click to expand...

Yes, I know, it bugs me too. But not as much as people leaning against them and turning them on.

I printed labels that are on the top/side of the switch, and I could print on for the face...but in reality my wife and I are the only people that will ever look at them.
 
There’s a thread someone started about battery boxes and it sparked a question about the batteries in my boat. The boat has 2 single 8d battery banks plus a separate 24v bank for the bow thruster. Is that sufficient battery reserve for this size boat. My 340da had 4 group 31s (2 in each back) and it was perfectly fine, I couple spend 8–10hrs on the hook without worrying about low battery’s and that was opening and closing fridges at will and using lights/head as needed. This boat has 4 fridges instead of 2, plus lots more lights, 2 head vacuum pumps to operate ETC. Do I have enough battery storage capacity on board? The 2 battery banks seem to be running services evenly so they are both acting as house batteries. I will be adding a dedicated generator battery in the near future so if I do run then low, I can get the genny running. To recharge them.
What does your boat have for batteries.
 
quality time said:
I think you'll find that most of us with boat's this size run our gen's non-stop when away from shorepower.
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I agree and I am sure I will use the Generator much more than I used to. The Onan generators are much quieter than my old Kohler 5E. Last fall, the first weekend we had the boat I left the generator running by accident when we went to dinner. I do have all dual volt fridges so it will be nice to not run it when on the hook or a mooring for some peace and quiet. I have to replace the batteries so hopefully new batteries will get me longer time off Generator or shore power.
 
Jeremygavin said:
I agree and I am sure I will use the Generator much more than I used to. The Onan generators are much quieter than my old Kohler 5E. Last fall, the first weekend we had the boat I left the generator running by accident when we went to dinner. I do have all dual volt fridges so it will be nice to not run it when on the hook or a mooring for some peace and quiet. I have to replace the batteries so hopefully new batteries will get me longer time off Generator or shore power.
Click to expand...
Without knowing the demand on the batteries you would have no idea what the batteries can do for you on duration. The key to lead acid (flooded and AGM) battery life is to not let them go below 50% DOD they will be damaged (loss of battery life) if discharged below that and to ensure they get to float during the charge cycle. Use 11.8 volts as a minimum voltage. The real problem with lead acid is the long absorption charge cycle; for example the absorption phase is about 20% of the overall charge cycle time. For an 8D battery that absorption phase can be 2 hours or more depending on the charger. If you do not allow the batteries get through absorption and achieve float during the charge cycle they will take a memory at something below full charge and never recover. So with all that said, an 8D battery has about 250 amp hours in energy which about 125 amp hours are useable (there is that 50% DOD). So, you would have to look at the demand and figure out what that battery can do for you. Take a look at a 12 volt refer; Say it is rated at 30 amps at 12 volts (which is 3 amps at 115 VAC) then you know it has a 30 amp hour demand but it doesn't run all of the time so at 50% duty cycle you are at 15 amp hours then you have to add the power factor as it is an inductive load so add another 1 amp hour. So, there you have it that refer can run on an 8D battery for about 7.8 hours.
I'm moving over to Lithium Ion batteries which solve many of the lead acid battery shortcomings and will be doing a technical write up on that conversion probably in another couple of weeks...
Tom
 
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I think Greg here has set me up with the perfect way to run this boat. We have house batteries and a seperate Generator start battery then we have a 3000 watt inverter and 4-6volt golf cart batteries in front of the engines. Our fridges-and freezers are 110vac only so without running the generator and opening closing them all day it wouldn’t take long to warm them up.
The inverter has run the entire boat for about 17 hours straight as of last season with more charge left in them
We have gone from 600 hours a season on the Genny to 125 or so. It’s great for anchoring and rafting without starting it.
 
Havana Shamrock said:
I think Greg here has set me up with the perfect way to run this boat. We have house batteries and a seperate Generator start battery then we have a 3000 watt inverter and 4-6volt golf cart batteries in front of the engines. Our fridges-and freezers are 110vac only so without running the generator and opening closing them all day it wouldn’t take long to warm them up.
The inverter has run the entire boat for about 17 hours straight as of last season with more charge left in them
We have gone from 600 hours a season on the Genny to 125 or so. It’s great for anchoring and rafting without starting it.
Click to expand...
Sounds like a great set up. Did you add the golf cart batteries and inverter to run the fridges or do you run the whole boat with it. (Not the ACs)
 
ttmott said:
Without knowing the demand on the batteries you would have no idea what the batteries can do for you on duration. The key to lead acid (flooded and AGM) battery life is to not let them go below 50% DOD they will be damaged (loss of battery life) if discharged below that and to ensure they get to float during the charge cycle. Use 11.8 volts as a minimum voltage. The real problem with lead acid is the long absorption charge cycle; for example the absorption phase is about 20% of the overall charge cycle time. For an 8D battery that absorption phase can be 2 hours or more depending on the charger. If you do not allow the batteries get through absorption and achieve float during the charge cycle they will take a memory at something below full charge and never recover. So with all that said, an 8D battery has about 250 amp hours in energy which about 125 amp hours are useable (there is that 50% DOD). So, you would have to look at the demand and figure out what that battery can do for you. Take a look at a 12 volt refer; Say it is rated at 30 amps at 12 volts (which is 3 amps at 115 VAC) then you know it has a 30 amp hour demand but it doesn't run all of the time so at 50% duty cycle you are at 15 amp hours then you have to add the power factor as it is an inductive load so add another 1 amp hour. So, there you have it that refer can run on an 8D battery for about 7.8 hours.
I'm moving over to Lithium Ion batteries which solve many of the lead acid battery shortcomings and will be doing a technical write up on that conversion probably in another couple of weeks...
Tom
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info. I have never done the math. I always just saw how far the batteries would take me. I would be interested in checking out your lithium Ion set up when you post it.
 
Havana Shamrock said:
I think Greg here has set me up with the perfect way to run this boat. We have house batteries and a seperate Generator start battery then we have a 3000 watt inverter and 4-6volt golf cart batteries in front of the engines. Our fridges-and freezers are 110vac only so without running the generator and opening closing them all day it wouldn’t take long to warm them up.
The inverter has run the entire boat for about 17 hours straight as of last season with more charge left in them
We have gone from 600 hours a season on the Genny to 125 or so. It’s great for anchoring and rafting without starting it.
Click to expand...

I love how you guys are running your boats/systems, but I also thought heard mention of some, were headed south at least semi-permanently. If so, I would think way more a/c demand (read: "amps/amp hrs." , insert Tom...) on the hook will be a concern for your comfort.
 
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