500/520 DB official thread

tshannoz said:
Ok gotcha. This is very good info to know. I assumed that the deep cycle Group 31’s did house stuff. I don’t feel that great knowing that my starter batteries are also running all of the DC amenities within the cabin.
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I have found that I need the AC on most of the time because the salon gets very warm quickly without it so I find myself running the Genny almost always. Spring and fall I can get away without running it and when I do I can go 6-8hrs on the bats with everything in the boat running. That’s 4 fridges, stereo, water pump and any lights we have on. I carry a heavy duty truck jump pack on board so worst case scenario I can jump the mains to start them or jump the Genny to get the battery chargers going. I have never used the jump pack.
 
Jeremy, your fridges aren't running on 12V DC are they? Maybe the bridge one, but the galley fridge/freezer would have to be 120V. Right?
 
That is a great idea to have a jump pack on board. When you get a chance, can you let me know its specs? Jumping those 8Ds likely takes a ton of amps.
 
tshannoz said:
That is a great idea to have a jump pack on board. When you get a chance, can you let me know its specs? Jumping those 8Ds likely takes a ton of amps.
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I think it would probably easier to use a standard jump box and jump the genny's 12v battery...then let your charger do the work on the 8D's.
 
Great idea!! Which battery does the genny use to start?

Also, I currently carry a Weego car battery jump starter with 440A/2100A current/peak. Will this be sufficient to jump the genny if needed?

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spikedaddy99 said:
Jeremy, your fridges aren't running on 12V DC are they? Maybe the bridge one, but the galley fridge/freezer would have to be 120V. Right?
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All my fridges are AC/DC. They are all isotherm including the galley fridges. They are dual voltage isotherms.
 
spikedaddy99 said:
Ah. You changed them out a while ago, correct? I still have Sub Zero's.
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No, my boat came with the isotherms as far as I know. I have a video of the boat when it was 3yrs old and they were in place then.
 
tshannoz said:
Doesn’t the genny start off the 8Ds?
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Yes but it requires way less amps to start than the mains so jump pack would have a much easier time top start the genny than the mains.
 
Bridge roof spreader lights and camera!
My dock neighbor just got a 3d printer and is learning the CAD aspects of it. I mentioned that I was thinking about a printer also because I wanted a housing for a camera and a couple of spreader lights for the bridge roof looking back. Well he took it on as a challenge and made me the most awesome housing. Made from PTEG. It conforms to the roof curve and will look down about 45 degrees. Check this out -
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ttmott said:
Bridge roof spreader lights and camera!
My dock neighbor just got a 3d printer and is learning the CAD aspects of it. I mentioned that I was thinking about a printer also because I wanted a housing for a camera and a couple of spreader lights for the bridge roof looking back. Well he took it on as a challenge and made me the most awesome housing. Made from PTEG. It conforms to the roof curve and will look down about 45 degrees. Check this out -
View attachment 146223 View attachment 146224 View attachment 146225 View attachment 146226
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That is BAD ASS!
 
ttmott said:
Bridge roof spreader lights and camera!
My dock neighbor just got a 3d printer and is learning the CAD aspects of it. I mentioned that I was thinking about a printer also because I wanted a housing for a camera and a couple of spreader lights for the bridge roof looking back. Well he took it on as a challenge and made me the most awesome housing. Made from PTEG. It conforms to the roof curve and will look down about 45 degrees. Check this out -
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Anxious to see that installed, looks great.

Which camera is that Tom? Will it tie to your MFD?
 
rlynch03 said:
Anxious to see that installed, looks great.

Which camera is that Tom? Will it tie to your MFD?
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Me too!
The camera is a Lorex POE color night vision 4K with 115 degree field of view. It is not Garmin ready but can be viewed through the Garmin MFD HDMI port. All of the boat's cameras are Lorex with a Lorex NVR. When the Lorex system was installed we were under the impression it was compatible with the Garmin video but alas it wasn't. I think I have a thread somewhere on that debacle. I have the Lorex NVR HDMI port connected to the MFD's. The down side is I cannot select which camera to view from the MFD's; it must be done at the NVR.
 
Tom, I totally get that frustration. Darn proprietary fiefdoms! Also, I can’t wait to see the install.
 
Rusty AC drain pain - location of the drain is too high

Hi everyone. Has anyone altered their AC drain pans to more effectively drain condensate? My bridge drain pan is very rusted because the condensate is allowed to pool. I’m curious if anyone either was able to clean up and fix the original pan or find a new one with better drain locations.

Here is my current situation. As you can see, the drains are too high to catch the condensate and get it out of there.

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Bump... Anyone replaced their Master A/C?

What size BTU A/C Unit is everyone replacing their Master Cabin unit with? Mine came with a 10k BTU like most of the 52DB i suspect. I am looking at a 9k and 11K unit Marinaire offers.

I do think we have a lack of airflow in the bunk rooms so i would like to go with the larger unit if it doesnt add other dehumidifying issues.

Please let me know what you you guys are using and how it is working since?
 
tshannoz said:
Rusty AC drain pain - location of the drain is too high

Hi everyone. Has anyone altered their AC drain pans to more effectively drain condensate? My bridge drain pan is very rusted because the condensate is allowed to pool. I’m curious if anyone either was able to clean up and fix the original pan or find a new one with better drain locations.

Here is my current situation. As you can see, the drains are too high to catch the condensate and get it out of there.

View attachment 146285
Click to expand...

My bridge A/C does not seem to hold water. Although I don't check that often. I will watch it a little closer when its running.
 
tshannoz said:
Rusty AC drain pain - location of the drain is too high

Hi everyone. Has anyone altered their AC drain pans to more effectively drain condensate? My bridge drain pan is very rusted because the condensate is allowed to pool. I’m curious if anyone either was able to clean up and fix the original pan or find a new one with better drain locations.

Here is my current situation. As you can see, the drains are too high to catch the condensate and get it out of there.

View attachment 146285
Click to expand...
I don't think there is much you can do to lower the drain without it going through the bottom of the pan but then it would need to go through the floor of the bridge and that probably isn't worth the effort. I replaced my salon AC unit this spring and the new one came with a stainless pan.
 
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