58 Sedan Bridge Official Thread

They are on the bow and stern thrusters, both shafts, both trim tabs and several on the swim platform.

Carter, would you mind posting the procedure to change the MAN display from metric to USA. My port display battery must have died.

thanks. Ken
Ken;

I'm not at the boat, so I may have to "invite" myself over to do it from muscle memory! I think you hold the reset button for about 5 seconds, then use the arrow keys to highlight °C/°F, then select °F, and turn the display power switch OFF, then back ON....

Since you have to do this each time you power up, susan wisely suggested to me to change the STBD display to metric and use them both in metric!!!
 
Does anyone have a comprehensive list of zincs required for our boats from a previous order I can copy to place an order from boatzincs. If not I want to confirm the shafts are 2.5” and a part number for bow/stern thrusters would be useful. Thank you
Zinc Anodes

E-1 - Need 4 for Engine and Gear Coolers
E-1G - Need 1 for Onan HE
R3 - 2 pairs for Tabs
T20 - Need 4 for Platform
BP-195 for Vetus Thrusters

I do not use shaft anodes per Sea Ray, but our shafts are 2 1/2"
 
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@carterchapman I don't see the words "anode" or "zinc" popping up in a quick keyword search of the MAN operating instructions or service record book. Where do the anodes install?

-Chris
 
They are on the bow and stern thrusters, both shafts, both trim tabs and several on the swim platform.

Carter, would you mind posting the procedure to change the MAN display from metric to USA. My port display battery must have died.

thanks. Ken
Any idea of what zincs are used on the swim platform
 
Zinc Anodes

E-1 - Need 4 for Engine HEs and Gear Coolers
E-1G - Need 1 for Onan HE
R3 - 2 pairs for Tabs
T20 - Need 4 for Platform
BP-195 for Vetus Thrusters

I do not use shaft anodes per Sea Ray, but our shafts are 2 1/2"
Perfect thanks
 
Ken;

I'm not at the boat, so I may have to "invite" myself over to do it from muscle memory! I think you hold the reset button for about 5 seconds, then use the arrow keys to highlight °C/°F, then select °F, and turn the display power switch OFF, then back ON....

Since you have to do this each time you power up, susan wisely suggested to me to change the STBD display to metric and use them both in metric!!!

Thank you. We are at pink shell. Come on over.

ken
 
Ken;

I'm not at the boat, so I may have to "invite" myself over to do it from muscle memory! I think you hold the reset button for about 5 seconds, then use the arrow keys to highlight °C/°F, then select °F, and turn the display power switch OFF, then back ON....

Since you have to do this each time you power up, susan wisely suggested to me to change the STBD display to metric and use them both in metric!!!

Thanks. You got me close enough to get it. It was mem button 5 seconds.

ken
 
@carterchapman I don't see the words "anode" or "zinc" popping up in a quick keyword search of the MAN operating instructions or service record book. Where do the anodes install?

-Chris
Chris - none in the engine; one in each cooler on the rear of the engine, so 4 E-1's or E-1A's needed...

MAN says they run no current through the engine itself, so none are needed in the HEs...
 
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Thanks, Carter, I hadn't noticed those... I'll have a look.

-Chris
 
I was just checking the SR owner's manual yesterday, and it says anodes only on the transom and on the trim tabs. No shaft or rudder anodes mentioned.

No mention in the SR manual about anodes for the thrusters, although I haven't yet looked at the thruster manual.

-Chris
2 1/2 Shaft zinc Egg 4
3 3/4 Rudder 2
3 1/2 Tear Drop 4
b-12 Transom 1
1 each Stern Thurster & Bow thurster Vetus Zinc Anode SET0151 for Bow Thruster 160
 
Scott, a few seasons ago I thought I needed to replace those hoses due to a putrid odor in the MSR and hallway, but it turned out that I had a slow leak from the water supply line to the MSR Head toilet that stagnated in the center bilge and stunk the place up. In preparation for replacement I had the same question you did. Couldn't quite figure it out so I called SR Customer service and they indeed had a whole written procedure for access and replacement. I was amazed that Sea Ray had actually gone to the length to prepare written procedures for long term maintenance, repair and replacement (I had the same experience when I replaced the MSR TV). Anyway, I have the pdf for the hose replacement procedure but it's too large to post here. Send me your e-mail address and I'll e-mail it to you. Good luck with the new boat (you should've bought mine, you'd be enjoying it now).
Brian, I know this is an old post but do you happen to still have the procedure from sea ray to replace the sanitation hoses from the toilets to the vacuum generator. Thanks
 
I have not had to replace mine yet Robert. We use the NoFlex substitute regularly and hold the pedal down for 10 sec after each flush to keep the lines clear of black water. The file is too large to post, PM me your email and I'll send it.
 
I have not had to replace mine yet Robert. We use the NoFlex substitute regularly and hold the pedal down for 10 sec after each flush to keep the lines clear of black water. The file is too large to post, PM me your email and I'll send it.
I also use NoFlex great product
 
Can you share it with me and did you end up replacing the hoses. How did it turn out

I also have it, but looks like @carterchapman already replied.

My winter yard just finished replacing my hoses. Mine were severely dry rotted in the engine room. Haven't seen the bill yet, but glad its done. I had them do all the hoses from toilets to the pump out, plus duck bills and bowl seals. Should be good for a couple of years!
 

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