- Mar 25, 2008
- 5,526
- Boat Info
- 2006 Sea Ray 58 DB
- Engines
- MAN CRM V8-900s, Twin Disc Drives; Onan 21.5 Generator
We’ve met him with @FootballFan in Clearwater. My AB12 came from him.
58 Sedan Bridge Official Thread
- Thread starter Skip
- Start date
swaterhouse
Well-Known Member
We had a Sport 390 on ours. The 360 was a bit tight around the console, and does not have a seat in front of the console like the 390. The 390 is big on the platform but worked fine. You just need to be aware of it when docking.
My Sport 390 is for sale up in Massachusetts if your interested.
I purchased mine from Lifeline in Cape Canaveral. If you strike out there give them a call they had a lot of stock
I see a brief mention of latching open at the 4:05 mark... but no description of how it does that. Ours doesn't, even after adjustments. I don't see anything in our latch mechanism that could work that way.
The door he's using as an example is newer than ours. Also, his latch handle is at 360° (points "north") whereas ours is at 270° (points "west," aka to port).
-Chris
We have the 340 with full console. Suzuki DF-20A with electric start and trim. Takes up the whole swim platform.
With the bow just even with the port side of our platform, the prop is about 2" further out to starboard when the engine is tilted enough to keep the skeg off the 'glass.
-Chris
missnmountains
Active Member
- Mar 25, 2008
- 5,526
- Boat Info
- 2006 Sea Ray 58 DB
- Engines
- MAN CRM V8-900s, Twin Disc Drives; Onan 21.5 Generator
@missnmountains - has DYS started on the boat yet?
SLIDNG GLASS DOOR ROLLER REPLACEMENT
I've had to yutz around with more adjustments... to get the latch to hold the door closed, to get the latch to lock, to get the latch to stay locked when locked and the handle moves... et cetera. This complicated by the standing part of our latch, different from what's illustrated in the video, now being at the very top of it's adjustment range.
The latch system is now working properly, but... I am not able to get the door level and completely square to the frame -- that whole "reveal thing" -- while still latching properly. Including staying latched when it's locked and somebody moves the handle anyway. Our "reveal" isn't too bad, though... not nearly as bad as it was when I started this whole thing... but it's not as good as I could probably get it if we had 1-1/8" wheels on the bottom of the door.
In retrospect, I think I'd be inclined to use the 1-1/8" roller cart versions -- partly since that's what ours were (didn't know that in advance), and partly because since ours were 1-1/8" and the TaylorMade site is silent on wheel diameter... it might be an OK assumption that all of the TaylorMade doors were made with 1-1/8" wheels.
That's cast in mush, but at least there's a reason for my guess.
Another approach might be to order both 1-1/8" and 1-1/4" wheels, use whichever was original on the lower trucks, use the others above.
This just some rumination for other owners, future maintenance, etc.
I should have mentioned above, there's no way I could have dismounted and then eventually remounted our door by myself. Too heavy, too wide, too awkward... mostly solved by two people, even when both are old and one's The Admiral.
I'm still intrigued by this. So Carter, our hulls are one off from each other, and I'd have expected mostly identical builds. Especially on mundane stuff like doors. No sign of vertical rods on ours, no sign of where vertical rods might engage in the upper and lower track... we've got nothing like that.
??
-Chris
I've had to yutz around with more adjustments... to get the latch to hold the door closed, to get the latch to lock, to get the latch to stay locked when locked and the handle moves... et cetera. This complicated by the standing part of our latch, different from what's illustrated in the video, now being at the very top of it's adjustment range.
The latch system is now working properly, but... I am not able to get the door level and completely square to the frame -- that whole "reveal thing" -- while still latching properly. Including staying latched when it's locked and somebody moves the handle anyway. Our "reveal" isn't too bad, though... not nearly as bad as it was when I started this whole thing... but it's not as good as I could probably get it if we had 1-1/8" wheels on the bottom of the door.
In retrospect, I think I'd be inclined to use the 1-1/8" roller cart versions -- partly since that's what ours were (didn't know that in advance), and partly because since ours were 1-1/8" and the TaylorMade site is silent on wheel diameter... it might be an OK assumption that all of the TaylorMade doors were made with 1-1/8" wheels.
That's cast in mush, but at least there's a reason for my guess.
Another approach might be to order both 1-1/8" and 1-1/4" wheels, use whichever was original on the lower trucks, use the others above.
This just some rumination for other owners, future maintenance, etc.
I should have mentioned above, there's no way I could have dismounted and then eventually remounted our door by myself. Too heavy, too wide, too awkward... mostly solved by two people, even when both are old and one's The Admiral.
I'm still intrigued by this. So Carter, our hulls are one off from each other, and I'd have expected mostly identical builds. Especially on mundane stuff like doors. No sign of vertical rods on ours, no sign of where vertical rods might engage in the upper and lower track... we've got nothing like that.
??
-Chris
missnmountains
Active Member
Old dock has been torn out. Hopefully within two weeks the dock is done. Therefore, on Friday I called DYS. The fiberglass work is done. Still need rubrail, striping, the little polycarbonate window on the bridge, one coat of bottom paint, and canvas. I should have started nagging a month or two ago.
PS. Our house carpet was replaced on Friday due to mold and rust from Ian. They said six hours. They did not get out of here until after 7PM, so I had to cancel going up to Clearwater to see Brad. I told him we would get up this week.
Ken
- Mar 25, 2008
- 5,526
- Boat Info
- 2006 Sea Ray 58 DB
- Engines
- MAN CRM V8-900s, Twin Disc Drives; Onan 21.5 Generator
It’s been a long 11 months since Ian!! Glad progress is being made!
I think this is that "rod" to hold the door open.
It is about 1/4-inch square. It doesn't seem to extend or retract with the handle and why I was asking about how it functions so I can get it fixed when I do the wheels.
- Mar 25, 2008
- 5,526
- Boat Info
- 2006 Sea Ray 58 DB
- Engines
- MAN CRM V8-900s, Twin Disc Drives; Onan 21.5 Generator
Tom,
I won’t be on the boat for 10 days, but I’ll get you a picture.
I won’t be on the boat for 10 days, but I’ll get you a picture.
Thanks Carter - I really appreciate it!
Interesting.
No provision for something like that on ours. Ours don't have those three screws in the sides like yours, either... just the two holes.
Here's another view of ours from the bottom, with the Phillips driver on the re-used roller cart attachment screw (and with the new adjustment screw/mechanism in the foreground):
-Chris
Interesting no doubt. Rational thinking would say that both of our boats would use the same door.....
Carter's boat has the latch.... I wonder if it is a Palm Coast vs Sykes Creek build difference.... Mine was made in Palm Coast.
Yes, I'd have guessed same, too. I'd have thought Carter's would be exactly like ours, too, since his is the hull # just before ours.
Ours was made at Sykes Creek.
-Chris
RUDDER ANGLE FOLLOWER
Revisiting this... 'cause my previous "fix" (splint) didn't last long. I have a query in to our local SR dealer, although I expect they won't have much to offer.
The original was Teleflex #1502871 (per @Robert Serviss) and is now discontinued. Referenced in our Parts Manual as SR #1285063, and associated with style-matched rudder angle and fuel displays:
50 1285063 ANGLE, RUDDER W/SWEEP ARM TELEFLEX
2 1774562 GAUGE, 2" PRT FUEL 24V "PRESTIGE" BLK CHR
3 1323104 GAUGE, KYS 2" RUDDER ANGLE
4 1774563 GAUGE, 2" STB FUEL 24V "PRESTIGE" BLK CHR
I haven't figured out who "KYS" is nor have I found a likely source for our "Prestige" style of fuel gauges -- which match the style of the rugger angle indicator -- but thought that might eventually lead somewhere toward more complete tech data.
There are other rudder angle followers available (KUS, VDO, etc.), but I don't know yet whether this is a 12V or 24V system, nor what the likely resistance levels might be (3-180 Ohm, 10-190 Ohm, etc.) to work properly with the display. Also need to select a 2-wire replacement, whereas some systems out there use three or more wires for power, signal, lighting, etc. (Additional wires might not be relevant to the follower, only the display; haven't looked more closely at that yet.)
This hasn't been overly critical; I'm used to centering the rudders by feel... and we also have a rudder indicator on the AP control head... one rule is that everything on the boat must work as intended, so...
If anyone else has messed with any of this before, I'm all ears!
-Chris
Revisiting this... 'cause my previous "fix" (splint) didn't last long. I have a query in to our local SR dealer, although I expect they won't have much to offer.
The original was Teleflex #1502871 (per @Robert Serviss) and is now discontinued. Referenced in our Parts Manual as SR #1285063, and associated with style-matched rudder angle and fuel displays:
50 1285063 ANGLE, RUDDER W/SWEEP ARM TELEFLEX
2 1774562 GAUGE, 2" PRT FUEL 24V "PRESTIGE" BLK CHR
3 1323104 GAUGE, KYS 2" RUDDER ANGLE
4 1774563 GAUGE, 2" STB FUEL 24V "PRESTIGE" BLK CHR
I haven't figured out who "KYS" is nor have I found a likely source for our "Prestige" style of fuel gauges -- which match the style of the rugger angle indicator -- but thought that might eventually lead somewhere toward more complete tech data.
There are other rudder angle followers available (KUS, VDO, etc.), but I don't know yet whether this is a 12V or 24V system, nor what the likely resistance levels might be (3-180 Ohm, 10-190 Ohm, etc.) to work properly with the display. Also need to select a 2-wire replacement, whereas some systems out there use three or more wires for power, signal, lighting, etc. (Additional wires might not be relevant to the follower, only the display; haven't looked more closely at that yet.)
This hasn't been overly critical; I'm used to centering the rudders by feel... and we also have a rudder indicator on the AP control head... one rule is that everything on the boat must work as intended, so...
If anyone else has messed with any of this before, I'm all ears!
-Chris
missnmountains
Active Member
Our Rigid 12 sport stuck out quite a bit. I had to be very careful on the port side as the propellers could easily hit a dock or piling backing in.
Ken
- Mar 25, 2008
- 5,526
- Boat Info
- 2006 Sea Ray 58 DB
- Engines
- MAN CRM V8-900s, Twin Disc Drives; Onan 21.5 Generator
Same as ours.
SOUTH BAY STRAINERS
Has anyone removed the internal basket strainers for the main engines and replaced with external "South Bay" strainers?
Our Parts Manual says we have 3" thru-hulls, 3" seacocks, and 2½" "pick-ups" (external scoops).
8 491217 SEACOCK, BRZ 3"FPT
9 490250 THRU-HULL, BRZ 3"
10 186502 PICK-UP, BRZ WATER INTAKE 2.5" (SCOOP ONLY)
I'm looking at the idea of removing the internal basket strainers, and replacing the function with external Groco APHS Series strainers.
https://www.groco.net/products/raw-water-strainers/hull-strainer/aphs-series
Their Service Sheet for strainers maybe suggests our external scoops are actually Groco's SC-2500s (given the Sea Ray Parts Manual description), and the ratio of open screen area to 2½" pipe (max) is 1.35. (Which seems to be less than ideal, given we have 3" thru-hulls?)
If I changed to external APHS-3000 strainers, the ratio of open screen area to 3" pipe (as we have) would be 3.31. That seems to me to be an improvement in water flow...
But my real reason for considering all this is to maybe be able to slightly declutter the forward end of the engine room. That assumes I could remove the "criss-cross" arrangement that connects the starboard thru-hull to the port engine strainer basket... and vice versa...
Then I could also see adding an inline service valve, such as I already have on the AC intakes, to be used for winterizing:
https://www.groco.net/products/valves-seacocks/accessories/ssc-series-service-adaptor
I've also read that a) the "South Bay" strainers are also a good idea for AC intakes too, and b) it's not a great idea for genset intakes without some care about pushing too much water through. I could see replacing internal basket strainer for both ACs, and leaving the genset as is...
What do we think about the whole idea, the minor details, etc.?
-Chris
Has anyone removed the internal basket strainers for the main engines and replaced with external "South Bay" strainers?
Our Parts Manual says we have 3" thru-hulls, 3" seacocks, and 2½" "pick-ups" (external scoops).
8 491217 SEACOCK, BRZ 3"FPT
9 490250 THRU-HULL, BRZ 3"
10 186502 PICK-UP, BRZ WATER INTAKE 2.5" (SCOOP ONLY)
I'm looking at the idea of removing the internal basket strainers, and replacing the function with external Groco APHS Series strainers.
https://www.groco.net/products/raw-water-strainers/hull-strainer/aphs-series
Their Service Sheet for strainers maybe suggests our external scoops are actually Groco's SC-2500s (given the Sea Ray Parts Manual description), and the ratio of open screen area to 2½" pipe (max) is 1.35. (Which seems to be less than ideal, given we have 3" thru-hulls?)
If I changed to external APHS-3000 strainers, the ratio of open screen area to 3" pipe (as we have) would be 3.31. That seems to me to be an improvement in water flow...
But my real reason for considering all this is to maybe be able to slightly declutter the forward end of the engine room. That assumes I could remove the "criss-cross" arrangement that connects the starboard thru-hull to the port engine strainer basket... and vice versa...
Then I could also see adding an inline service valve, such as I already have on the AC intakes, to be used for winterizing:
https://www.groco.net/products/valves-seacocks/accessories/ssc-series-service-adaptor
I've also read that a) the "South Bay" strainers are also a good idea for AC intakes too, and b) it's not a great idea for genset intakes without some care about pushing too much water through. I could see replacing internal basket strainer for both ACs, and leaving the genset as is...
What do we think about the whole idea, the minor details, etc.?
-Chris
