89 180 Bow rider trailer setup

J

jswingle13

New Member
Jul 25, 2011
40
SW Michigan
Boat Info
'89 180 BR
Engines
4.3 Mercruiser
I picked up a new to me trailer for my sea ray over the weekend and have made some mods to make it fit...Does anyone have a 180 on a trailer that could share some pics with me so I know im on the right track? Thanks in advance.
 
jswingle13 said:
I picked up a new to me trailer for my sea ray over the weekend and have made some mods to make it fit...Does anyone have a 180 on a trailer that could share some pics with me so I know im on the right track? Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...


you may just want to posts some pics of your boat sitting on your trailer so everyone can see the set-up and offer suggestions as needed....you are more likely to get far more replies than just limiting your question to 180 owners....

cliff
 
Thanks... It's not on the new trailer yet, I am in the process of replacing the bellows and is still on the old one. I'm putting on a fresh paint job and replacing the carpet before I switch it. The new trailer had a four winns on it and I had to move two bunks based on some measurements I took off my boat. I'm sure I'm on the right track, I just wanted to make sure I'm not overlooking anything. I'll post pics once I get it switched over.
 
here are some trailer basic set-up items that i have picked up just in case you need them:

- tounge weight of the trailer hitch should be 10 - 15% of the total weight of the boat and trailer combined
- end of bunks should be even (or very close) to the edge of the transom
- bunks should be positioned under the chines in the boat hull
- the winch strap/cable should have a straight or slightly elevated pull on the bow eye
- the bow eye should be positioned just under the bow roller on the winch stand when the boat is loaded on the trailer
- always use both a bow strap and transom straps to secure the boat on the trailer when towing
- always use a safety chain between the bow eye and the winch stand
- any trailer/boat combo that weighs over 3,000 lbs should have some sort of brakes on the trailer wheels (surge, electric, drum, disc, etc.)
- make sure the trailer leaf springs are rated properly for your boat. Too stiff springs will cause too harsh of a ride for the boat when trailering.
- not mandatory but the use of 'bearing buddies' helps insure the trailer wheel hubs are kept full of grease to keep water out of the hubs/wheel bearings
- trailer lights should be immersible to prevent popping light bulbs when a hot bulb is dunked in cool water at launch
- insure trailer tires are properly rated for the load

again, i am no expert, but these are things i have discovered from both experience and from research on this site as well as others...i don't think these items are 'written in stone' but intended to be more of a guideline...

good luck...

cliff
 
Thanks that's all great advice! I've covered most of that already....I won't be able to check the bow roller and winch until I get it loaded and I hope it is ok because it's all "fixed" and would require some cutting and welding which I've already done for the bunks. What are the chines?
 
I looked it up! My bunks are below the chines. Thanks again I will post pics when I get it switched. The trailer is painted, lights fixed new bunks and re-carpeted. Just need to finish replacing my bellows and I can try it out! What options do I have for adding brakes?
 
Small point... "chine" is the incorrect term. What I assume Cliff is referring to are the "lifting strakes". Depending on the style of bunks you have, they may not actually sit directly on (or under, as it may be) the strakes. In fact, most do not sit directly on them. Instead, the bunks will sit either just inboard or outboard of the lifting strakes. When possible, I prefer to have the bunks sit just outboard of the strakes as it tends to guide the boat onto the trailer a little better that way as the boat sets into the "groove".

Adding brakes: The first thing to check on is whether your axles have brake mounting flanges. If so, you'll order a kit that will include not just the brakes, but lines and a new coupler (and a shut-off solenoid if installing discs). If not, you either need to have flanges welded on or just get a new axle.

Check out Tie-Down's website.
 
Thanks.... I was wondering if he meant the strakes, the trailer has 4 bunks and the original position the outers were smack in the middle of my strakes, I moved them to be just outboard of them to serve the exact purpose you mentioned and I thought it would also be more stable. I did look at some kits for brakes.... I believe my axle has the mounting bracket for them. I don't tow very far and use a full size truck so I will way my options on brakes. thanks everyone for your input!


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Lazy Daze said:
Small point... "chine" is the incorrect term. What I assume Cliff is referring to are the "lifting strakes".
Click to expand...

correct...my bad...thanks for correcting...
 
Lazy Daze said:
Instead, the bunks will sit either just inboard or outboard of the lifting strakes. When possible, I prefer to have the bunks sit just outboard of the strakes as it tends to guide the boat onto the trailer a little better that way as the boat sets into the "groove".
Click to expand...
So I assume I am good with one pair below and one pair just above?



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