AC water pump leak

SeaNile

Well-Known Member
Aug 16, 2010
1,522
Chadds Ford, PA
Boat Info
2003 50 Sundancer
Engines
Cummins QSM11
Is this a simple as tightening the bolt at the bottom? The air conditioning pump has a decent leak and I’m wondering if I need a new pump, gasket, tighten a bolt? Or if an internal part is shot, etc.
 

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Which brand is it? Check if they offer a rebuilt kit for the front end.
 
I’d start by tightening the bolt. If it’s not that loose, a rebuild is probably a good idea.
 
What pump model? Is that Dayton shaft driven? Picture doesn't really show enough to be useful. But, in that case you'll need a shaft seal.

That would be an odd pump for a Sea Ray. I think what was originally there is a March pump that has a magnetic drive...nothing to leak.
 
Dayton is the manuf for electrical motors. The pump assembly is probably an Oberdorfer.
Over time, depending upon how well the pump is bonded and maintenance of the boat's anodes, the casting will develop pin hole leaks. These pumps really need their own zinc anode.
No recovery other than buying a new pump.
 
So yourself a favor, replace that thing with a March air cooled pump. The best place is Flagship Marine for pumps. We fought that Oberdorfer for years, finally bought the TE-5.5C-MD-3ph. Never had an issue again.
https://flagshipmarine.com/pumps/
 
So yourself a favor, replace that thing with a March air cooled pump. The best place is Flagship Marine for pumps. We fought that Oberdorfer for years, finally bought the TE-5.5C-MD-3ph. Never had an issue again.
https://flagshipmarine.com/pumps/

Not a bad idea although I wonder if a swap to a new Dayton would be much easier?

Not sure what March pump I would need. It'll take me a while to cross reference, etc.
 
Not a bad idea although I wonder if a swap to a new Dayton would be much easier?

Not sure what March pump I would need. It'll take me a while to cross reference, etc.

Not really. Its just a matter of adding up the water flow. What's connected to it? 1 or 2 AC's and what size?
 
Not a bad idea although I wonder if a swap to a new Dayton would be much easier?

Not sure what March pump I would need. It'll take me a while to cross reference, etc.
Dayton is the electric motor manufacturer only, not the pump itself. The pump head is made by Oberdofer. I am guessing you have 3 units like our 500, we put the 1680 on ours. I think had to change the output fitting, which we got at the local hardware store.
 
Dayton is the electric motor manufacturer only, not the pump itself. The pump head is made by Oberdofer. I am guessing you have 3 units like our 500, we put the 1680 on ours. I think had to change the output fitting, which we got at the local hardware store.

4 units
 
Dayton is the manuf for electrical motors. The pump assembly is probably an Oberdorfer.
Over time, depending upon how well the pump is bonded and maintenance of the boat's anodes, the casting will develop pin hole leaks. These pumps really need their own zinc anode.
No recovery other than buying a new pump.

I went through this earlier in the year. Bonding wasn't great, pin holes. Replaced with new pump. New bonding on the pump.

Called out an electrician to do a bonding check through out the boat just for peace of mind and preventative. Electrician did not find any other issues, but was worth it to know.
 
I went through this earlier in the year. Bonding wasn't great, pin holes. Replaced with new pump. New bonding on the pump.

Called out an electrician to do a bonding check through out the boat just for peace of mind and preventative. Electrician did not find any other issues, but was worth it to know.
We did the same thing, still ate thru the pump housing. Response we got was it was caused by cavitation. We went with the march and never has the problem again
 

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