Aftercooler replacement

Stpetelsu64

Active Member
Jul 23, 2020
194
St Petersburg, Florida
Boat Info
2007 Sea Ray Sundancer 400, Original Stock Electronics
Engines
Twin cummins QSB 5.9- 380HO
This is a little above my grade. I have never replaced my after coolers and they are about 11 years old. I hired a local cummins repair service to do some work to get my boat ready for a long trip. I have never dealt with after coolers so needed help. they are telling me they need replaced. I attached pics they sent me. I was wondering if there are any experts in this area that can tell me if they are being truthful. I feel they are but it is expensive at 2800 each so would like to know before authorizing the work. They say they are pitted I attached some pics
 

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Its hard to tell from pictures but I would say yes those need to be replaced as there is pitting in the housing.

Cummins aftercoolers should be removed, taken apart, inspected, lubricated and re-assembled every 2-3 years in salt water. If you do that you should not have to replace them. The reason is there are three metals all touching at the same point, you have a mix of copper, aluminium, and brass all intersecting at the exact location where those pictures point to.
 
Thanks for the advice Swaterhouse! I have read up and learned more and more about this part and wish I had known when I got the boat 11 years ago. I have always had a mechanic do the basic stuff annually or when needed. I know now I will be following that advice. I also am looking for someone to install a fresh water flush system on the motors. Thanks alot
 
Ouch on the cost! Some good info -
https://www.sbmar.com/articles/cummins-marine-aftercooler-maintenance/
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...eos/search?q=aftercooler+assembly&FORM=HDRSC3
The pitting appears quite severe however I believe you can get a couple of additional years from them provided you prep and use copious amounts of the recommended grease during assembly. It is, however, essential that the tube bundle has a good sealing surface to the housing (no leakage permitted at all) and the tube bundle passes the leak testing. If you have to replace the tube bundle then might as well replace the entire unit.
 
For fresh water flush, try
https://www.sbmar.com/product/groco-arg-series-bronze-cap-with-freshwater-flush/

they take the place of your strainer cap and so far have worked flawlessly for me.

I put in new aftercoolers beginning of the season and am determined to get the most life I can out of them.
How difficult was installing the fresh water flush? Was it just as easy as changing out the cap? And are there certain instructions like closing the seacock before flushing? Thanks for that link, that was the first I have seen of that.
 
literally unscrew the existing cap and replace it with the one in the link.

I do not close the seacock, others may. I don't want to be the guy who forgot to open the seacock. I know that there is some saltwater mixing with the fresh water from the hose, but it is inconsequential. I run the engines for about 5 minutes while flushing. Use the engine room blowers, they work and will definitely help cool it off down there.
Make no mistake, it is hot down there and you'll be sweating as you're doing it, but I have to believe this is worthwhile.

adding video link:
 
That is very helpful. I just ordered the part. Thanks for that as I was going see if I could find someone to hook one up for me. I think it could double the life of the after coolers
 
Ouch on the $ 300.00 per lid, take the existing lid to a machine shop, they can drill and tap it, buy the parts at Lowes/HD less than $ 100.00 ea. I also did the AC and Generator tops, makes winterization simple
 
I didn't want to mess around.
A new cap is around $130 + (using your number) $100 parts + machine shop and it doesn't seem $300 is a stretch.
 
I didn't want to mess around.
A new cap is around $130 + (using your number) $100 parts + machine shop and it doesn't seem $300 is a stretch.
Well I emailed them about the fresh water flush and they said send a pic of my sea strainer. I was told that one would not fit. I am not sure why, maybe the size. The sea strainer is a Perko and has the numbers 493 on it and below that a 9. I see perko makes sea strainers with the flush on them but I cant seem to find out what size I need for my motors. I have twin cummins QSB5.9-380HO.
 
I think you have
https://www.perko.com/catalog/underwater_hardware/103/intake_water_strainer/

and seems perko makes a fresh water flush version
https://www.perko.com/catalog/category/underwater_hardware/product/55/

Perhaps a call to them to see if the cap from the flush version would work on your strainer?

Edit:
Scratch that, just saw this on another site:
Please Note
The parts for the top of the 0593 Flushing strainer are NOT interchangeable with either the models 0493 or 0500


https://www.cgedwards.com/Perko/pko305-11.html

sorry
 
I think you have
https://www.perko.com/catalog/underwater_hardware/103/intake_water_strainer/

and seems perko makes a fresh water flush version
https://www.perko.com/catalog/category/underwater_hardware/product/55/

Perhaps a call to them to see if the cap from the flush version would work on your strainer?

Edit:
Scratch that, just saw this on another site:
Please Note
The parts for the top of the 0593 Flushing strainer are NOT interchangeable with either the models 0493 or 0500


https://www.cgedwards.com/Perko/pko305-11.html

sorry
I found some of that during late night research. Looks like I need to find the pipe size in order to get the correct model. I scrolled down to the ordering information and see there are different sizes. I thought mine was 2 inches. I see 2 inches on the sea strainer(first link) but looks like they dont have 2 inches for the fresh water flush version (2nd link) I will have to call them. Thanks for the heads up
 
For those with Groco strainers, here's an alternative flush cap for about $70:
41qlT4x6LoL._AC_.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Trac-Ecologi...?srs=9318485011&ie=UTF8&qid=1599913144&sr=8-9.

Available for more than one size. I have one for my engines plus another for the AC/generator strainers. I use the Home Depot coupling posted earlier as well to make the connection to the water system.


Those are good @alnav but I am sure you know they are not designed to be left in place all the time.
I was thinking about getting one of those for my generator.
 
I have used one of these for years for winterization. It also comes in very handy to blow out the from the strainer to the sea cock if there is an obstruction. They have a procedure for freshwater flushing but I haven't tried it. A big advantage is that it will fit into any strainer. I will say the system can get a little messy depending on how well the unit seals to the strainer so I wouldn't recommend it for anyone who minds getting a little wet.
http://www.seaflush.com
seaflushpic.jpg
 
First time for me taking caps off of the aftercooler and I see the tubes are at an angle. In one of the videos above it looks like I saw an arrow pointing up, I do not see an arrow or feel a directional groove on my QSC 500 aftercoolers. Does anyone know if they are directional? Engines seem to run at Cummins temp spec. The only issue I have noticed is there is a small weep of coolant coming from one of the heat exchanger freeze plugs.

86475653-B851-43B3-A7E6-C24724A7546B_1_201_a.jpeg
 

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