Alternator, battery? Engine shuts down, Possible causes wanted

[Pseudomind]

I am having the same issue a tech put his laptop on my system twice to check and I have already been billed for, so we are going to have to look at something else.

1. I am thinking maybe the serpentine belt tensioner might be loosening on its on. (This I am going to look at this afternoon, now that engines have cooled down)

2. Possibly the alternator is not charging at higher RPM (This supposedly happened the last time, not enough voltage according to the eror code, which shutdown the fuel pump)

3. Maybe something else is failing. I am not sure if a battery not charging might cause this or not.

I had the same issue happen again yesterday and had to return back at under 2000 RPM (I forget what Mercrusier calls this mode, and do not feel like looking it up)

from just south of the turn off to Doctors Inlet, practically the same area as where it happened the last time


I left out yesterday at 1:00 PM once I left the Ortega river channel and turned into the St. Johns heading South I set my cruising speed to 3200 RPM and all was going nice until I was just past the Doctors Inlet turn off around 1:50PM then my starboard engine volt meter went to fluctuating probably between 12 - 14 volts, then the starboard engine shut down.

This is the same issue I had originally, when it was thought that maybe tightening the serpentine belt tensioner might be the issue.

I am just looking for some possible suggestions, as I have not looked at anything or had anything looked at since yesterday.

Thanks

 

[midway]

Check all cable and wire connections, make sure they are tight, while checking that you need to check that the cable or wire has not came loose at the terminal inside of the insulation, rare but does happen and hard to find sometimes. It could be the alternator fluctuating after it heats up but sounds more like a connection that is moving and it takes a while for it to warm and start losing connection, the gauge fluctuating indicates power fluctuation which would cause you to "limp home".

 

[Pseudomind]

Thanks

I do not know about all other RPM ranges, but at 2000 RPM's there is no fluctuation, and until it happened there was no fluctuation.

 

[Four Suns]

...I set my cruising speed to 32000 RPM and all was going nice until ....

Damn... You running a model airplane engine in that thing?

 

[Pseudomind]

Damn... You running a model airplane engine in that thing?

Okay Obi Wan, you got me! 3200 RPM, I changed it..Sooo do you have any valid input?:huh:

 

[Four Suns]

Sounds like you are on the right track.

 

[fc3]

Intermittent connection (free!)
If you have crossover charging, a bad isolator (~$100)
Worn alternator field brushes (~$5)
Glazed, loose or worn serpentine belt (~$50)
Faulty voltage regulator (~$75)
Loose regulator connection inside the alternator (free!)

Best regards,
Frank C

 

[Pseudomind]

Midway and FC3 thanks.

Naturally the free items first, but I have been thinking more on the lines of maybe the serpentine belt. I recall once I started the engine and teh belt did not turn it was to lose and apparently stuck, I shutdown the engine, restarted and it ran then.

I am wonder since the voltage meter did not fluactuate any at 2000 RPM's that maybe the belt is a bit glazed and was slipping at the higher RPM's? Thanks again

I am going to have a long hard look at these suggested items.

I am sure go-cart driver "Gary Parnelli " meant well also..now if we can just keep him on a straight line. :huh: :smt043:smt043

How's the shoulder doing?

 

[mvoellinger]

Do you have a voltmeter to check resistance, voltage, etc with? Im not sure which side of the river you live on, but I have a nice fluke that can do everything you'll need (think its model 78), and live down in uh...ahem...fruit cove (I hate admitting that to my friends...) and as long as you promise not to make it go for a swim you can borrow it.

 

[Pseudomind]

Do you have a voltmeter to check resistance, voltage, etc with? Im not sure which side of the river you live on, but I have a nice fluke that can do everything you'll need (think its model 78), and live down in uh...ahem...fruit cove (I hate admitting that to my friends...) and as long as you promise not to make it go for a swim you can borrow it.

Well hell what is wrong with Fruit Cove (Unless you are referring to it in the vernacular) I live on the Westside, and often hear this, "The Westside is the Best Side, home of the double wide!"

But thanks for the offer, I also have a Fluke, some posts back I was inquiring about reading frequency so I purchased a Fluke 117.

:thumbsup:

 

[mvoellinger]

Well hell what is wrong with Fruit Cove (Unless you are referring to i tin the vernacular) I live on the Westside, and often hear this, "The Westside is the Best Side, home of the double wide!"

But thanks for the offer, I also have a Fluke, some posts back I was inquiring about reading frequency so I purchased a Fluke 117.

:thumbsup:

:smt043

Good luck with the problem! I do have a bunch of odd tools and am usually fairly good turning a wrench, let me know if you ever need anything. If you also need a good marina to work on it, Isle of Palms on the port side as you're entering Doctors Lake right after you go under the bridge has always been great to me.

 

[Nehalennia]

Check the alternator wire under the boot. On my 230OV I found the positive lead corroded but you couldn't see it. The corrosion was beneath the connector. The wire broke in my hand. I stripped it back, attached a new connector and voila!

 

[fc3]

Check the alternator wire under the boot. On my 230OV I found the positive lead corroded but you couldn't see it. The corrosion was beneath the connector. The wire broke in my hand. I stripped it back, attached a new connector and voila!

When Sea Ray installs the crossover charging system, they cut the orange output wire near the starter and crimp new leads that run to and from a bulkhead mounted isolator. On my boat, they forgot to crimp the crimp connectors. Found that a few weeks after delivery.

Best regards,
Frank

 

[Pseudomind]

Intermittent connection (free!)
If you have crossover charging, a bad isolator (~$100)
Worn alternator field brushes (~$5)
Glazed, loose or worn serpentine belt (~$50)
Faulty voltage regulator (~$75)
Loose regulator connection inside the alternator (free!)

Best regards,
Frank C

I went out this Saturday and had same issue. Could this perhaps be an over-voltage issue? :huh:

I am guessing the voltage regulator is internal in the alternator, and is maybe breaking down after a particular alternator internal operating temperature has been reached?

I am still having the same issue. As a guess, and this is only a guess, I am guessing it may be something in the voltage regulation circuit within the alternator, or a heat related connection issue. I am event guessing it may be even possibly an over voltage issue perhaps.

A replacement alternator at MarineMax is $312 and change, plus tax. I am thinking it is probably an alternator issue?

I say heat related NOT to be confused with the cooling system and the engine running hot. The engine temperature gauges both show right at 160 degrees when this happens. The only erratic reading is the starboard engine voltage meter at the helm. It starts fluctuating back and forth between about 12 volts to over 14 volts. When I left out yesterday the starboard engine voltage meter was reading slightly over 14 volts, while the port was reading a bit less then 14 volts.

NOTE: This does not show up right away, only after everything has warmed up to a certain ambient degree in the bilge.

The two times before this I was headed down the St.Johns towards the Outback Crab shack, and when I had made it just pass the Doctors Lake inlet cut off. Is when it happened. I had been on plane cruising at around 3200-3300 RPM, it shuts down the Starboard engine usually around 50 minutes to an hour. The engine will restart, but I have to cruise back at less then 2000 RPM.

YESTERDAY, Saturday , June 13, 2009: I left out to test as the serpentine belt tightness was rechecked and adjusted. I had a lot of idle time (A wait for a train at CSX railroad crossing, and the Landing long no wake zone), I went to Metropolitan Park and practiced some docking, then I was going to head back towards the Buckman bridge. I had just gotten past the Fuller Warren bridge on my way to the Buckman , went up on plane at around 3300 RPM when the alarm went off. Instead of waiting for it to kill the engine, I went below 2000 RPM and returned to Lambs Marina and docked.

I have gel batteries, the alternator connections are tight and clean. The serpentine belt appears to be adjusted correctly.

I am open for someone elses input or suggestions.

Thanks

:thumbsup:

 

[flflatrate]

I had a few boats where the cannon plug that searay used was a pos. and while you were on plane it would vibrate and shut the motor down. you can grab it while the motor is running and wiggle it and see if it shuts off. if you think it is a low voltage issue leave the genset on with the ac converter on. what marinia is working onthe boat?

 

[Pseudomind]

Belt is good, not glazed, on tight,
new alternator installed,
cables from appearance look pretty good,
battery terminals are clean, Gel type batteries,
voltage reads good,

Until this happens and then good at 2000 RPM or less. Not after this happens what it would read from 2000-3200 RPM as it will kill the engine again above 2000 RPM.

But it still does this "Check Starboard engine diagnostics" sounds alarm off every minute, went out Sunday to test and and the issue is still there.

Alarm will reset after I get back and shut all down.

I could take the boat out now and all will be fine for anywhere from 30 minutes or more, then it will happen again

I cannot hear anything back from Rinda Software (How do they stay in business)

Some people here have posted about a connection to the starter? And others about cable connections?

So just what are the jest of these comments? Engine cranks easily enough, runs well at 3200-34400 RPM until this issue kicks in may take thirty minutes to an hour or more to do so.

Then it will run fine at all the way back at 2000 RPM or less,, so wouldn't there be ambient heat expansion, vibration or cable expansion at 2000 RPM?

I am just trying to get a picture in my mninds eye of what is happening where.:huh:

Thanks

 

[Pseudomind]

Could having gel batteries instead of the normal wet cells have any connection with this? If so I would sure be interested in an explanantion of how and why.

Oh and by the way. I only puchased this boat last August 30, 2008 and the gel batteries where already there.

 

[gerryb]

Any chance the ECU/ECM could be going flaky? Not sure if you can swap them but this sounds more electronics than mechanical or electrical to me. Get a code reader and see what faults were triggered.

BTW, I have the code reader --in my opinion, it should come with the boat. Too much expensive equipment down there for me not to know what the hell is going on when a bell rings.

 

[Newbie]

Is your engine completely shutting down (off) or just going into guardian mode (reduced power at 2k rpm)? I can't tell from your OP but it seems its just reducing power, correct? I could be wrong but, I don't think an intermittent electrical failure would cause the engine to go into guardian upon restarting and not leave a code for the tech to find.

IIRC, you don't have a smartcraft systems view on your boat, I think you were looking into adding it? If you do, you can review faulty sensors on the screen when alerted and the engine goes into guardian mode. When you had the tech out with the scanner, was he connected when the problem actually happened? You need him to go out with you so he can be connected to pull live codes when it happens. Or, you can chase it yourself with a Rinda or OTC scanner. OTC is cheaper (and better) if you buy it second hand on ebay, then get the cable and chip from a Merc dealer.

My boat has the same engines but I have the system view. Last year, I had the exact same issue to the T. My system view showed low H20 psi and went to guardian mode. Shut it down for a while and the pressure would read normal, all's fine until running about 30 min or so and it would happen all over again. After replacing the sensor, it was fine. I now keep a spare onboard. Hope it helps.

 

[Pseudomind]

It shuts the engine off. It is not per se going into guardian mode. The water temperature reads about 165 for both engines. Apparently both temp gauges are working as they increase up to the 165 mark gradually after first starting the engines.

I will be cruising along in the 3200 - 3400 RPM range for awhile after first departing, 30 minutes to an hour, when this happens.

The starboard engine volt meter will start suddenly dipping/flipping/fluctuating to the left just slightly, maybe 1/2 volt by the gauge. This will go on for another few seconds, and then it will drop down to 13 volts dipping/flipping/fluctuating, then to 12.5 volts,. This all happens in just a matter of seconds, then the engine shuts down. When this happens the System Monitor alarm goes off and will flash something like "Starboard Engine System Diagnostic." (I was told that the fuel pump runs on a continuously normally closed circuit, and when the voltage dips below a set threshold, maybe 12.5 volts the circuit opens and the engine shuts down).

I can immediately restart the engine and run it up to 2000 RPM's even more, but typically once above the 2000 range it will eventually shut the engine down.

I then cruise back with the alarm going off every minute and flashing the; "Starboard Engine System Diagnostic." I can reset the alarm, by turning the engine key off before restarting the engine.

I have sent Rinda two emails with no replies received back as of yet, two weeks ago.

Does someone have a link to this OTC system mentioned above?

Thanks

:thumbsup: