Analog gauges not working on '89 Amberjack 270

[rx8blu]

I've tried to find a similar issue on here but kept running into the same issue, but on newer models with the "smart" connector. All of my gauges are dead. Gauge lights work, but no response on the gauges themselves...D E D...dead. I've verified at least the my batteries are at full and read at float voltage ~13.4v independently using a handheld voltmeter with the barrel switches off. I'm currently in the process of replacing ALL of the 12v switch breakers and keyed ignition switches on the panel right and low. Is there somewhere else I should look for the gauge power after that? I have the parts and users manual, but they don't seem to show where power is derived from...Thanks!

 

[hughespat57]

Power for gauges normally comes from the engine harness. Do the engines crank and start?
Most Mercruisers have a 50amp circuit breaker on the engine, then that goes to harness, and a 10 amp breaker for each engine at the helm.
From there goes to the ignition switch and then the gauges
Each gauge set should have a common black ground wire, and a common ignition switch wire (usually violet)

You say the lights work, so that would normally indicate the ground is good.
Yet bad ground is the most likely for ALL the gauges not working at the same time.
Port or starboard are not interrelated except for ground.

 

[rx8blu]

Power for gauges normally comes from the engine harness. Do the engines crank and start?
Most Mercruisers have a 50amp circuit breaker on the engine, then that goes to harness, and a 10 amp breaker for each engine at the helm.
From there goes to the ignition switch and then the gauges
Each gauge set should have a common black ground wire, and a common ignition switch wire (usually violet)

You say the lights work, so that would normally indicate the ground is good.
Yet bad ground is the most likely for ALL the gauges not working at the same time.
Port or starboard are not interrelated except for ground.

Haven't got to the engines yet...building up to that. I just purchased the boat...haven't christened her yet even. Yes I'll be replacing the 10A/12V breakers this coming week (replaced the first one and it disintegrated upon removal). I don't see the 50A Breaker in the parts manual. Is there a location/label for it somewhere? You mentioned power going through the ignition, do you have the key in ACC for gauges to work? or just the switch breakers? Once I have the DC breakers replaced the next item will be re-commissioning the engines, flushing/changing fluids filters, etc. and then test crank with a fake-a-lake.

 

[hughespat57]

ignition key needs to be in "run" position for the gauges to work.
The 10 amp "ignition" breaker must be set
The 50A is not part of the Sea Ray wiring its on the engine by Mercruiser, usually near the top and the start assist solenoid.

 

[rx8blu]

ignition key needs to be in "run" position for the gauges to work.
The 10 amp "ignition" breaker must be set
The 50A is not part of the Sea Ray wiring its on the engine by Mercruiser, usually near the top and the start assist solenoid.

Copy all! Understood!...Thanks! The ignition switch breakers are in bad shape. I'll replace those first. The key ignition seem to be in better shape on visual inspection. Thanks for the advice! I'll let ya know how it turns out!

 

[rx8blu]

ignition key needs to be in "run" position for the gauges to work.
The 10 amp "ignition" breaker must be set
The 50A is not part of the Sea Ray wiring its on the engine by Mercruiser, usually near the top and the start assist solenoid.

Success!...Looks like your advice was all spot on. I replaced the starboard engine ignition 10A ignition breaker, and made sure the 50A breaker by the engine was set. Flipped to "run" on the key ignition and my starboard gauges came right up!
Thank you!

I've got the rest of the 10A breakers on order. Right now I'm changing out the gear lube in my outdrives. Next up is oil/filter change and fuel/water separator filter...