Anchor to Chain Splice Options

[douglee25]

I need to redo my anchor to chain splice. It has been giving me fits for the past year which gets me riled up while out on the water. It just happened again while my folks were in town and it jammed BAD. The rope was pulled up through the gypsy over top of itself and the chain. It took me 20 mins to clear.

Anyway...I started looking for examples online and saw the typical 2 strands one way, 3rd strand the other way and braid it back down itself. This creates a fairly hefty braid size which contributes to the jamming that many see.

See here -

I also found this option. Frankly I've never seen this before, but it does appear to keep the rope size fairly consistent. My first thought was it reduces the splice strength by 33%, however, the main rope is still only 3 strands and technically the splice portion is 4 strands - two up and two back.

What are your thoughts? I am thinking of trying this version -

 

[dtfeld]

Mine hangs up too. I might try this, but I’m still thinking all chain, the weakest link is the Progress 1 finger. They are good for about 1 retrieval Max.

 

[Creekwood]

Perfect timing for you to post this. I just retied my rode to chain splice this weekend and did a horrible job. I have 175 ft of chain, backed by 200ft of 5/8 3-strand. But the rope is old and very stiff. I really should replace it, but until then I needed to retie the splice. I know that it is far too thick at this point so I need to redo it some time soon. I seldom need more than the chain I have so that splice may never have to run through the windlass, but I still want it better. I think I will try that new method.

 

[hughespat57]

The primary splice used in three strand is know as a "short splice". It is stronger but doubles the diameter of the line at the splice.

The alternative is known as a "long splice" which retains the diameter but is considered weaker. But it will pass easily thru a block. As an eye, you are spreading the load over two legs, the standing end of the line and the bitter end passes thru the chain and back to the standing end. So each leg has 1/2 the load. The bite on the link chain is always the weakest point anyway. So even tho a weaker splice a long splice can be safely used and solves the binding issues in the wildcat.

 

[douglee25]

The primary splice used in three strand is know as a "short splice". It is stronger but doubles the diameter of the line at the splice.

The alternative is known as a "long splice" which retains the diameter but is considered weaker. But it will pass easily thru a block. As an eye, you are spreading the load over two legs, the standing end of the line and the bitter end passes thru the chain and back to the standing end. So each leg has 1/2 the load. The bite on the link chain is always the weakest point anyway. So even tho a weaker splice a long splice can be safely used and solves the binding issues in the wildcat.

Boom! Thanks for the explanation. Very informative. I am going to give this a try when I find the right size fid.

 

[douglee25]

I spoke too soon. I have an 8 strand anchor line. I guess I mixed up my old boat. That unit had 3 strand.

Does a "long splice" exist for an 8 stranded rope?

 

[Tim Fila]

8 plait is a major PITA to splice. Make sure you have a fid. It is impossible without a fid.

https://www.neropes.com/fileadmin/u...ed_to_Chain__2020_Splicing__NER_ARK_Print.pdf

 

[hughespat57]

I spoke too soon. I have an 8 strand anchor line. I guess I mixed up my old boat. That unit had 3 strand.

Does a "long splice" exist for an 8 stranded rope?

Because this is a woven line not twisted there is not a "long splice" per se.
A short splice in three strand is basically back weaving the line into the standing end twist, this is why it ends up bulky
As above you can do the same with 8 strand, it will be very strong but again bulky. And since you have to keep track of 8 strands it is a PITA.

So you can't get a splice that is completely a diameter just slightly large then the original standing line. BUT...
You can get a splice that is less stiff/more flexible (important for the wildcat) and tapered from the eye to the standing line.

It's called a "Locking Brummel" eye.

Do not worry that they talk about 12 strand, point is it is for woven synthetic lines that are soft and slick.
It is the splice of choice for the new synthetic Dyneema and Amsteel winch lines and tow lines but will work with any woven synthetic. I use these on my synthetic winch lines on my boat trailer and bow painter, and the truck winch.

For a chain splice you would make the "eye" as small as possible, no bigger than a chain link itself. The limiting factor for how small you can get is keeping the two "inverted" points as close together as you can manage. The double pass thru the inverted section locks the eye so it cant just pull out when the line is slack. The holding strength comes from passing the tail down the center of the standing line. The woven line acts as the old "Chinese finger handcuff" toys, the greater the strain the greater the outer line grips the inner line.

For the wildcat you can also add a bit of seizing right around the throat to keep the eye tight

 

[Lazy Daze]

Even with 3-strand, a normal chain splice should work fine - especially if you do a tapered splice.

8-plait is much more flexible than 3-strand, so there's a good chance that what's wrong with your rope is that it's just dirty/stiff. When's the last time you cleaned it and soaked it in fabric softener?

 

[Korkie]

Went all chain a few seasons ago. 200 ft. with 50 ft of rode. Got tired of dealing with the hanging up splice, the rode getting twisted, the Progress 1 finger issues. One of the best changes we made. Also gets rid of the wet rode in the locker. Only weak spot in the swivel. Inspect it often, replace as needed.

 

[dtfeld]

Went all chain a few seasons ago. 200 ft. with 50 ft of rode. Got tired of dealing with the hanging up splice, the rode getting twisted, the Progress 1 finger issues. One of the best changes we made. Also gets rid of the wet rode in the locker. Only weak spot in the swivel. Inspect it often, replace as needed.

I replaced the swivel with a Mantis last year. Thing is solid...

 

[Stee6043]

I replaced the swivel with a Mantis last year. Thing is solid...

+1 on the Mantis.

 

[Irie308]

Just added 200' of chain and a Rocna. I went with the Mantus swivel because you can take the whole thing apart and inspect it. No need to guess or "hope" there is no corrosion or wear happening in any unseen areas. Very solid piece of hardware. https://www.mantusmarine.com/mantus-swivel/

 

[douglee25]

Appreciate everyone's help.

With some patience and this video, I was able to do a fairly decent job on this surprisingly.

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=559918658101508

I did a 3 tucks then reduced the strands by half and complete two more tucks. I tested it out in the windlass and it worked flawlessly. I did find the finger slightly out of the groove which didn't help either. I rebuilt the entire assembly last summer. I'll keep an eye on things.

Before and After....

 

[sbw1]

After you get a decent splice consider adding a high quality swivel. My boat came from the factory with a swivel, 50 feet of chain and 200 feet of rope. This is the first boat I have ever owned that was a dream to anchor with. It never failed to set and retrieval was a dream come true.
.

 

[douglee25]

Good call. I have a mantus swivel and it's the bomb.