gstanton
New Member
’95 Sea Ray 230 Sundancer 5.4 single engine.
Has 2 batteries on a switch (off-1-all-2)
Recently I’ve been having a problem with Bat 1 not having enough charge to turn the starter. About 2 months ago I wire brushed the terminals and sprayed with corrosion stuff as an annual maintenance thing. Lately, #1 will initially grind but then just click. I can turn battery switch to “all†or “2†and the engine will turn right over and run fine. Last time out I just left the switch on 2 thinking #1 is bad and I would replace #1 with a newer deep cycle from our travel trailer. Went to the boat to do that and #2 is now dead (as well as #1). Won’t even sound the warning beeper. I went ahead and replaced #1 with the newer TT battery and it fired right up. Ran the boat around for about 15-20 mins to charge “Allâ€. I noticed then that the voltmeter was barely above the 12 volt position… like maybe 12.5. It normally runs at what is approx 13.5 position. Brought #1 up to the house and put it on the charger and it appears to charge OK. Both boat bats are 1 1/2 yrs. old, in use summer (fresh) and winter (salt). TT bat is 1 month old. All are deep cycle marine.
Suggestions? I only have an old beat up analog (needle) volt/ohm meter – might be a good chance to get a digital. The question in my mind now is where is the voltage regulator? Actually on the alternator? How to tell if it’s the regulator or the alternator itself? I’m thinking the alt or reg is failing? When I left the boat Friday I switched the batts to “offâ€. Haven’t been back and won’t til Monday.
Don’t think anything is left on, but I have recently installed a Lowrance depth sounder, switched. Also a new FM radio ( in March) that does have a memory. I would think it would take more than a couple of days to pull a (good) battery down. Am I missing something?
Thanks!
Has 2 batteries on a switch (off-1-all-2)
Recently I’ve been having a problem with Bat 1 not having enough charge to turn the starter. About 2 months ago I wire brushed the terminals and sprayed with corrosion stuff as an annual maintenance thing. Lately, #1 will initially grind but then just click. I can turn battery switch to “all†or “2†and the engine will turn right over and run fine. Last time out I just left the switch on 2 thinking #1 is bad and I would replace #1 with a newer deep cycle from our travel trailer. Went to the boat to do that and #2 is now dead (as well as #1). Won’t even sound the warning beeper. I went ahead and replaced #1 with the newer TT battery and it fired right up. Ran the boat around for about 15-20 mins to charge “Allâ€. I noticed then that the voltmeter was barely above the 12 volt position… like maybe 12.5. It normally runs at what is approx 13.5 position. Brought #1 up to the house and put it on the charger and it appears to charge OK. Both boat bats are 1 1/2 yrs. old, in use summer (fresh) and winter (salt). TT bat is 1 month old. All are deep cycle marine.
Suggestions? I only have an old beat up analog (needle) volt/ohm meter – might be a good chance to get a digital. The question in my mind now is where is the voltage regulator? Actually on the alternator? How to tell if it’s the regulator or the alternator itself? I’m thinking the alt or reg is failing? When I left the boat Friday I switched the batts to “offâ€. Haven’t been back and won’t til Monday.
Don’t think anything is left on, but I have recently installed a Lowrance depth sounder, switched. Also a new FM radio ( in March) that does have a memory. I would think it would take more than a couple of days to pull a (good) battery down. Am I missing something?
Thanks!