Bottom painting before splash date?

[hack4alivin]

I heard once and don’t remember where that you should bottom paint your boat as close as possible in time to your splash date. Apparently the bottom paint retains the antifouling qualities better when getting it into the water right after painting (letting it dry of course).

Is there any truth to this?

 

[jrirvine1]

I have previously heard this as well but have not been able to confirm it. My guess is that with the modern coatings available today, this is most likely not a concern.

Larger concerns would be the application temperature and the difference between drying and curing. If you are intending to launch the boat in late March or very early April, the temperatures may not be optimal for bottom painting – unless of course the boat is indoors in heated storage. Most of the coatings require a minimum application temperature of 50 degrees for both air and hull, with the most favorable closer to 70 degrees.

Drying is defined as not tacky or soft to the touch and this can happen in about two hours, but would not be ready for recoating or launching. Curing happens when the coating is hard throughout and is ready for sanding, recoating or general use. This is typically 16 to 24 hours, but the temperatures must remain in the favorable range for proper curing.

 

[Searaybio270]

I was reading about bottom painting yesterday and they were saying the same thing. Temp and dryness.

On a side note to you know of anyone in this area that does soda blasting?

 

[hack4alivin]

I have previously heard this as well but have not been able to confirm it. My guess is that with the modern coatings available today, this is most likely not a concern.

Larger concerns would be the application temperature and the difference between drying and curing. If you are intending to launch the boat in late March or very early April, the temperatures may not be optimal for bottom painting – unless of course the boat is indoors in heated storage. Most of the coatings require a minimum application temperature of 50 degrees for both air and hull, with the most favorable closer to 70 degrees.

Drying is defined as not tacky or soft to the touch and this can happen in about two hours, but would not be ready for recoating or launching. Curing happens when the coating is hard throughout and is ready for sanding, recoating or general use. This is typically 16 to 24 hours, but the temperatures must remain in the favorable range for proper curing.

Thanks, it is my intention to splash her before the 1st of April but I do need to bottom paint first. Last year I went in March 15th and bottom painted two days before going in. It was not exactly the warmest day to bottom paint. Even though we are expecting a warm weekend this week I know the hull temperature has not come up.

 

[StressAweigh]

I was reading about bottom painting yesterday and they were saying the same thing. Temp and dryness.

On a side note to you know of anyone in this area that does soda blasting?

Give this guy a call I used him last year and he is very good and reasonable The Sandman 410-665-3587

 

[Lazy Daze]

Just as another confirmation to the above comments about "timing doesn't matter"...

Most cruisers come from Sea Ray with the bottom coat already on - and they may sit on a dealer's lot for some time before being put in the water. No problems.

However, I have heard the same thing you did. I don't know the "correct" answer, but I would agree with the thoughts above that it is more about the older style paint.

 

[Lucky's]

I sincerely apologize for the hijack, but since you're on the topic of bottom paint, I want to put a fresh coat on the year, I am in heated storage, so that's all set BUT I have no idea whats on the boat for bottom paint. It is not peeling or anything, but just looks a little faded and tired so I wanted to give it a refresher. Can you guys recommend a safe bottom paint to cover over something unknown??

 

[comsnark]

I have heard the same wives tales about painting close to launch time. And I have also heard the same thing about "new" paints: paint whenever.

 

[Searaybio270]

I sincerely apologize for the hijack, but since you're on the topic of bottom paint, I want to put a fresh coat on the year, I am in heated storage, so that's all set BUT I have no idea whats on the boat for bottom paint. It is not peeling or anything, but just looks a little faded and tired so I wanted to give it a refresher. Can you guys recommend a safe bottom paint to cover over something unknown??

Look up Zyrex bottom coating. I have been in discussions with him over the last month or so. The application requires a completely clean bottom, prep, and I think four applications. Once completed you won't have to bottom paint for 5 to 10 years or more. Several CSR folks have used the product and like it. Nothing adheres to the bottom or so little it falls off when you boat. Increases speed and handling ability of the boat.
Hope that helps. :huh:

 

[jrirvine1]

Thanks, it is my intention to splash her before the 1st of April but I do need to bottom paint first. Last year I went in March 15th and bottom painted two days before going in. It was not exactly the warmest day to bottom paint. Even though we are expecting a warm weekend this week I know the hull temperature has not come up.

In our area you should not need to bottom paint every year. If the coating is properly applied you should easily get between 2-3 seasons - assuming ablative paint. There is such a thing as "over painting".

 

[hack4alivin]

In our area you should not need to bottom paint every year. If the coating is properly applied you should easily get between 2-3 seasons - assuming ablative paint. There is such a thing as "over painting".

Good point and thanks.

The bottom paint is completely intact and in reality would only need “touching up” on some areas of the side just for looks more than anything else. I thought I would need a fresh coat just to keep the growth off, since she is in the water from April till November. Although we do put a fair amount of hours on her so just running alone should keep the bottom clean.

I was concerned about “over painting” and yes I do use an ablative paint.

 

[sbw1]

Follow the directions on the can. We paint with Awlgrip about every three years. This is the last thing done to our boat prior to launching. It is typically painted on a Monday and splashed a day or two later when the paint is completely cured. The launch date has more to do with marina schedules than getting the boat in the water by a certain time. The Awlgrip we use is not time sensitive.

 

[trit21]

From what I was reading it depends on if you use a hardcoat bottom paint or ablative bottom paint.

Hardcoat needs to be spashed right away
Ablative does not.

I think I remember it saying the hardcoat dries out and barnacles can then attach themselves to the bottom more readily.

Found the article:

Ablative & Soluble Copolymer Bottom Paints

The older ablative paints were made to wear away through friction as the boat moved through the water, and some of these paints are still available today, such as Interlux Bottomkote ACT and XXX. The problem with these paints is that water wears the paint away much more quickly in areas of high friction, such as the leading edge of the keel and waterline, leaving those areas exposed while there is still plenty of good paint on the rest of the hull.

Modern ablative paints with water soluble or self-polishing copolymers dissolve at a predictable rate, and are not as susceptible to friction wear so tend to wear more evenly and last longer. Paints such as Pettit Ultima and Interlux Micron 66, Micron Extra and Micron CSC, as well as Awlgrip Awlstar, Seahawk Cukote, Super Shipbottom, paints by SeaJet and others fall into this category of more advanced ablative type paints. Pettit's Vivid is a special case, and has characteristics of both ablative and hard paints. The copper thiocyanate biocide and zinc slime-inducers do dissolve away like an ablative bottom paint, but they leave behind the Vivid paint, as happens with a vinyl or epoxy antifouling coating.

Hard Bottom Paints

Hard bottom paints like Pettit Trinidad SR and Unepoxy, Interlux Ultra and Fiberglass Bottomkote, Seahawk Sharkskin and Tropikote and others are durable and can be made very smooth. It is possible to achieve and maintain a smoother finish with these bottom paints than with most ablative types and the paint is long-lasting.

The downsides of the hard paints are that many lose effectiveness when out of the water, and the paint will build up over time if not sanded down each time the boat is bottom painted. Also, hard paints are at their most effective immediately after launching, and are less toxic to marine growth over time as the poisons within leach out. That means that after a year or so, a hard bottom is likely to need more scrubbing than an ablative bottom, which will still just need a light wipe to expose fresh paint with copper biocide.

 

[AKBASSKING]

Here you go. Any and everything you need to know about bottom paint.

http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/diy/default.aspx


Here is my thread on my bottom painting:

http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24963

 

[Vince_nj1]

This is what my boat looked like when it was hauled last October. 2nd year on Micron CSC 66.

After pressure washing:

I think the paint held up pretty well on the fiberglass surfaces but failed on the metal surfaces. I am going to strip the paint off the metal surfaces and repaint with an epoxy base and repaint everything with Micron CSC again. Anyone see a problem with my plan?

 

[AKBASSKING]

This is what my boat looked like when it was hauled last October. 2nd year on Micron CSC 66.

After pressure washing:

I think the paint held up pretty well on the fiberglass surfaces but failed on the metal surfaces. I am going to strip the paint off the metal surfaces and repaint with an epoxy base and repaint everything with Micron CSC again. Anyone see a problem with my plan?

Nope. I heard that kit was pretty good.

I was told that when you repaint with the Micron, if it is in good condition, go over it with a green scottsgaurd pad, then apply a new coat.

Let me know how the kit works for you.

 

[Vince_nj1]

Here you go. Any and everything you need to know about bottom paint.

http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/diy/default.aspx


Here is my thread on my bottom painting:

http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24963

Thanks for the feedback and the links. Very helpful. Nice job painting your boat. That was a ton of work. :wow: Wow

 

[AKBASSKING]

Thanks for the feedback and the links. Very helpful. Nice job painting your boat. That was a ton of work. :wow: Wow

Thanks. The bottom paint I used is specificall designed for boats like mine that are on a trailer and not in the water all the time.

 

[Vince_nj1]

Correction on my original post. I went back and looked at my pictures and realized that the paint that was used was Micron CSC, not Micron 66. I am planning on using Micron 66 this year.

 

[jrirvine1]

What is the storage and launching instructions for boats painted with hard antifoulings?

Hard or contact leaching antifouling paint dries to a hard but porous film that is packed with biocide. The biocide begins to leach out on contact with water to prevent fouling growth. This leaching is chemically designed to release biocide while the boat is in the water. Out of the water the paint film will oxidize and slow the release of the biocides to the point where there may not be enough biocide coming out of the paint film to maintain fouling protection. One of the main benefits of this type of antifouling is its resistance to abrasion and rubbing. This makes it ideal for fast powerboats, racing sailboats or boats where the owners have the bottoms scrubbed regularly.

Hard antifoulings from Interlux® include Ultra, Ultra-Kote®, Fiberglass Bottomkote®, Fiberglass Bottomkote® Aqua, Super KL, Epoxycop, VC® Offshore and Baltoplate®
Initial maximum time before launch – Follow label instructions
Boats that have been painted and are past the maximum time before launch on the label but no more than 12 months past their launch date – Scuff sand with 220-grit sandpaper or a maroon Scotch-Brite pad prior to launch.
Boats painted more than 12 months prior to being launched – Sand with 80 - 100-grit sandpaper and recoat prior to launch
Boats that have been launched but are in the water for less than 24 hours – Lightly pressure wash to remove surface contamination (salt and dirt etc.). Follow label instructions for maximum launch time from date of painting.
Boats that have been in the water for more than 24 hours but less than 30 days – Pressure wash immediately after hauling. No additional work is needed if the boat is relaunched with 72 hours. IF the boat will be out of the water for more than 72 hours will need to be sanded with 220-grit sandpaper immediately prior to relaunching.
Boats that have been in the water for more than 30 days – Pressure wash when hauled, sand with 80 or 100-grit sandpaper and recoat. Recoating is necessary even if the boat will be out of the water for less than 72 hours.
Micron® Technology
For boats that are going to be hauled and relaunched on a regular basis or hauled for seasonal storage consider using Micron antifouling paints. Micron antifouling paints can be hauled and relaunched without repainting since the biocides are chemically bound to the paint film and are only active when in the water. The longevity of these coatings is related to the thickness of the paint.