Bow Thrusters

Stpetelsu64

Active Member
Jul 23, 2020
194
St Petersburg, Florida
Boat Info
2007 Sea Ray Sundancer 400, Original Stock Electronics
Engines
Twin cummins QSB 5.9- 380HO
Well after getting a full "lookover" along with getting my after coolers replaced I am about to pay a big bill close to 10k. I cant gripe too much as the original after coolers lasted 11 years. I am just now learning how to do a bunch of my own work since retired. But after they finished up 2 things went bad. One was the magnetic switch which was old and pretty worn. They didnt charge me for that. But I went to take boat out for the first run since the engine work and my bow thrusters wont even power up. Any suggestions on trouble shooting? The main box fuse is on and seems ok, I am not sure what else to check. Any help would be appreciated. I am also going to browse the site to look around for answers. Thanks. It is a 2007 searay 400 by the way
 
Make sure you have power to the controls, and then power to the reversing solenoid control, and then of course, main power for the thrust motor. Some of the solenoids have onboard fuses for the control side.
 
I am thinking I do not have power to the motor. when I turn the control switch on at the helm I dont get a light like I used to. I get nothing. I am trying to test the voltage to the actual unit which is located under the furthest forward hatch in the master. either I am testing the wrong hookups or I am getting 1.92 volts. So if that is the case I am guessing either bad batteries or something under the hatch above the 2 batteries. I need to get down there and test the 2 main batteries first. I guess if they are good I will go to the fuse and see if it is good.
 
Once you kick the breaker on for the bow thruster, you should have voltage at the thruster motor on the large positive and negative feed wires.

I spent $600 in diagnostic fees to track down the same exact problem you’re experiencing - no power at the joystick. The tech was stumped and couldn’t figure it out. His answer was to run a new control harness from the joystick to the thruster motor. Can’t imagine what that would’ve cost.

I solved the issue by removing the access panel next to the helm and immediately saw the splice connector on the control harness had come unplugged.

What this long dissertation is suggesting is that you track your control harness from joystick to thruster and see if something got disconnected with all the other work you were having done.
 
Once you kick the breaker on for the bow thruster, you should have voltage at the thruster motor on the large positive and negative feed wires.

I spent $600 in diagnostic fees to track down the same exact problem you’re experiencing - no power at the joystick. The tech was stumped and couldn’t figure it out. His answer was to run a new control harness from the joystick to the thruster motor. Can’t imagine what that would’ve cost.

I solved the issue by removing the access panel next to the helm and immediately saw the splice connector on the control harness had come unplugged.

What this long dissertation is suggesting is that you track your control harness from joystick to thruster and see if something got disconnected with all the other work you were having done.

And then there's that moment when you're asking yourself why you called Mr. Fix It in the first place.

Good on you for finding the fault.
 
And then there's that moment when you're asking yourself why you called Mr. Fix It in the first place.

Good on you for finding the fault.
Actually, I didn’t have a choice. My storage yard was closed to boat owners due to C19 so I couldn’t get in to diagnose myself. The first I was allowed in was launch day, and I had it fixed before the travel lift had my boat off the stands!!
 

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