Brakes lock up while backing up hill

stevea661

New Member
Oct 2, 2008
260
tehachapi Ca
Boat Info
268 sundancer, humminbird 797c fish finder / chart plotter /gps combo, lowrance lms 400 with np-60 f
Engines
OMC Cobra 1.41 final drive ratio. 5.7 rebuilt to 300 hp 11/ 08. Hustler 15. x 15 prop. reman quadraj
I guess I could get my trailer parking area paved, but that will have to wait. To park the boat I have to back it up hill. My drive is crushed asphalt. The boat is an 86 268. The truck is a dodge deisel one ton 2 wheel drive. So when I back the boat up hill, if I'm not real gentel on the gas the surge brakes engage and every thing locks up. Is there any way to over ride the surge brakes?
 
There should be a manual lock out on the trailer and there also should be a lock-out solenoid that trips when the tow vehicle is put in reverse. On my trailer there is a key that fits into the channel on the side of the tongue. Put the key into the slot to lock the brake piston from engaging. Hope that helps.
What kind of trailer is it?
 
There should be a manual lock out on the trailer and there also should be a lock-out solenoid that trips when the tow vehicle is put in reverse. On my trailer there is a key that fits into the channel on the side of the tongue. Put the key into the slot to lock the brake piston from engaging. Hope that helps.
What kind of trailer is it?

These are just regular surge brakes, no electric, the trailer takes a flat 4 wire plug. I don't know what kind of traler it is. I can't find anything that would lock out the slide for the brakes. There is some writing on a plate above the actuator but it's painted over. The only thing I can make out is it says surge brakes will not work in reverse. It doesn't say they work real good in reverse pushing the trailer up a hill:huh:
 
Look on the side next to the top part of brake cylinder that slides over the coupler. There may be a hole there if your coupler has the pin that secures the ball lock in place.
HydraulicSurgeBrakeCoupler.jpg


Take the pin out of the hitch lock location and stick it in the hole on the side of the couple to prevent the brake cylinder from sliding forward.
 
Not all surge brake actators have a lock out pin. Mine does not. It has "freebacking" drums that reduce the braking force by about 15% in reverse. This is still too much and I had a difficult time parking my trailer in my yard. I achieved a lock out function by placing a 1/2" socket driver extension between the ball coupler and the brake fluid reservior. Works just perfect now but you have to remember to remove it or you have no brakes. I have a Titan brake actuator.
 
I agree with not all have a lock out pin, mine does not either. It is the 5 pin so when I'm hooked to the truck with power it will lock out the brakes when put in reverse. I have to wedge a board in the hitch when moving with my tractor.
 
Not all surge brake actators have a lock out pin. Mine does not. It has "freebacking" drums that reduce the braking force by about 15% in reverse. This is still too much and I had a difficult time parking my trailer in my yard. I achieved a lock out function by placing a 1/2" socket driver extension between the ball coupler and the brake fluid reservior. Works just perfect now but you have to remember to remove it or you have no brakes. I have a Titan brake actuator.

I was just able to make out the brand. It's titan too. I'm pretty sure it does not lock out. I'm not quite following you about how to stop the brakes from ingaging. Looking at thier web site I think I have the model 10
 
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The "electric lockout solenoid" is only with disc brakes. Surge brakes still just use the flat-4 connector.

Steve - Look at the gap (along the bottom) between the ball coupler and the stationary part of the actuator. You should be able to wedge a piece of 2x4 in there. That will physically keep the ball coupler from sliding into the actuator, thereby keeping the master cylinder from compressing, thereby keeping the brakes from going on. Use a bungee cord to keep it in place.
 
... Steve - Look at the gap (along the bottom) between the ball coupler and the stationary part of the actuator. You should be able to wedge a piece of 2x4 in there. That will physically keep the ball coupler from sliding into the actuator, thereby keeping the master cylinder from compressing, thereby keeping the brakes from going on. Use a bungee cord to keep it in place.

I never thought about a bungee cord, I use a big C-Clamp.
 
Mine is a Titan model 60 so the trick I do with mine won't work with yours. Basicly you have to come up with a way to prevent the ball coupler from pressing back on the piston. Any way to jamb something between the two moving parts would work.
 

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