Bravoitis Suspected.

Ben Levitt

Ben Levitt

Member
Jul 18, 2018
38
Crownsville, Maryland
Boat Info
2013 240 SunDeck
Engines
5.0 Mercrusier Bravo III
2013 240 Sundeck with 240hrs. My mechanic says we have a case of bravoitis. Got an alarm and guardian mode. Mechanic did diagnostic and determined port side manifold heated to 212 degrees. Took boat on trial with computer hooked to engine and recreated the excessive temp on port side after running at 3500 for a couple minutes. Starboard side remained at 160 degrees. Went to inspect the water supply hose from the outdrive to the transom assembly buy could not free the 2 bolts - likely corroded - risk of breaking off. So mechanic suggests a through hull fix (~$800) vs. pulling engine to remedy with new parts (~$3,500), even though the diagnosis can not visually be confirmed. Thoughts on the through hull solution / anyone with experience on that? Other thoughts?
 
Doubt it if 1 side is fine. Merc superseded the old style rubber hose that collapse with a plastic replacement that won't that fits in the original position for about $50
 
Would be odd that it could supply one side but not the other, but depending of flow restrictions, maybe. Really should do a flow test on each side.
 
Are these 8 year old original manifolds?

Salt water boat?

If so, Maybe they are due for replacement.
 
Ben, i just went thru a summer of chasing this same problem, same symptoms. It was the metal tube that goes through the transom. Clogged up, couldn’t fit a pencil through it.
Read my ‘Overheating’ story on page 2 of this forum. Details exactly what we did, found, and fixed. Its all there, don’t reinvent the wheel.
Dont pull engine. Both upper and lower outdrive housings come off. Plan on new gimbal, bellows, shift cable while in there.
 
just pull the feed hose off the water pump with the boat in the water (have a plug ready) if water gushes in like a garden hose on full blast your good ANY less and you have a problem - have you checked the pump? also agree on checking mannies and risers....
 
8 years does sound a bit premature for bravoitis. What did his diagnostics include? A failed water hose in the gimble can still allow good flow until it is out of the water while on step.
 
Style 2 is the way to go, use your old bellhousing and it installs like style 1 but wont collapse and cheap
 
Pyro - Great video find! Shows one of the largest components of Bravoitis plus gives a great summary of upgraded fix. One question, as I have never pulled a gimble apart to replace the bell housing, and never dealt with thru transom stuff between the motor and the transom (inside clearance to access that inner white pipe to attach revised components for system 3) wouldnt you have to pull the motor(s) to do this retrofit due to access? Thus the work would be more than the $800 price noted above of the thru hull fitting? BTW - $800 is a not a bad price for paying another to do that. I am now definitely going to be looking at upgrading to that bell housing/gimble assembly for the version 3 this winter as I also need to address other thru transom items like steering and trim limiters.
 
You dont pull engine. Its all done from outside. Cost me $2k all parts, labor, haul and block. But everything outside the transom is new.
$800 is really low. I was quoted 1400 but after they got drive off, we decided to replace everything including trim senders (those dam things aint cheap).
 
Pirate Lady said:
You dont pull engine. Its all done from outside
Click to expand...
Pirate, look at the video at around 4:00-5:04. That fitting is on the inside of the transom assembly inside the engine compartment. For version 3 you have to access this and its going to be between the engine and the inside transom/gimbal housing. What I dont know then, can you access for this revised fitting with verson 3 without removing the engine. Version 2 you wouldnt need to as everything done like you say from outside.
 
Thornton69 said:
8 years does sound a bit premature for bravoitis. What did his diagnostics include? A failed water hose in the gimble can still allow good flow until it is out of the water while on step.
Click to expand...
Ran boat on plane (3500-3800) with laptop measuring both manifold temps. Port gradually went to 215, got alarm. Starboard to 155 and held. Tried to remove the fitting at the transom hose to check for corrosion but the bolts wouldn't give - didn't want to force. So while not visual evidence the diagnosis is based on mostly likely / experience.
 
Pirate Lady said:
Ben, i just went thru a summer of chasing this same problem, same symptoms. It was the metal tube that goes through the transom. Clogged up, couldn’t fit a pencil through it.
Read my ‘Overheating’ story on page 2 of this forum. Details exactly what we did, found, and fixed. Its all there, don’t reinvent the wheel.
Dont pull engine. Both upper and lower outdrive housings come off. Plan on new gimbal, bellows, shift cable while in there.
Click to expand...
Thanks Pirate Lady. Tried to track your overheating story at the place you noted but found it difficult to see exactly what you did to solve. Would you be able to message me the steps you took, parts, etc? While thru hull may solve, if it doesn't, I have a unnecessary hole in my boat!!
 
89P270 said:
Pirate, look at the video at around 4:00-5:04. That fitting is on the inside of the transom assembly inside the engine compartment. For version 3 you have to access this and its going to be between the engine and the inside transom/gimbal housing. What I dont know then, can you access for this revised fitting with verson 3 without removing the engine. Version 2 you wouldnt need to as everything done like you say from outside.
Click to expand...
Not a mechanic. The mechanics that did mine recently accessed everything from outside the boat. If they did any work in the bilge I didnt see it, and i know they didnt pull the engine.
 
Ben Levitt said:
Thanks Pirate Lady. Tried to track your overheating story at the place you noted but found it difficult to see exactly what you did to solve. Would you be able to message me the steps you took, parts, etc? While thru hull may solve, if it doesn't, I have a unnecessary hole in my boat!!
Click to expand...
New manifolds & risers (these were done last winter, not related to overheating)
New Intake manifold gaskets
New Thermostat
New Thermostat housing (old, corroded)
Replaced 2 temp sensors on housing
Replaced 5 coolant hoses
Replaced Bilge pump hose (found a hole in it)
Replaced impeller in raw water pump
Inspected the circulating pump on front of engine
Flushed engine multiple times
Out of ideas, took to mechanics at big marina next door
Pulled outdrive, discovered a tube running from the od thru the transom was so clogged they couldn't push a pencil thru
Replaced metal tube, hoses, gimbal bearing, shift cable, bellows, trim sensors
It was suggested to me to install a thru hull, but that started a discussion about having to do something or the outdrive could overheat. Felt the thru hull was a bandaid and not actually solving the problem.
All fixed. Just in time for the best part of teh season.
 
Pirate Lady said:
New manifolds & risers (these were done last winter, not related to overheating)
New Intake manifold gaskets
New Thermostat
New Thermostat housing (old, corroded)
Replaced 2 temp sensors on housing
Replaced 5 coolant hoses
Replaced Bilge pump hose (found a hole in it)
Replaced impeller in raw water pump
Inspected the circulating pump on front of engine
Flushed engine multiple times
Out of ideas, took to mechanics at big marina next door
Pulled outdrive, discovered a tube running from the od thru the transom was so clogged they couldn't push a pencil thru
Replaced metal tube, hoses, gimbal bearing, shift cable, bellows, trim sensors
It was suggested to me to install a thru hull, but that started a discussion about having to do something or the outdrive could overheat. Felt the thru hull was a bandaid and not actually solving the problem.
All fixed. Just in time for the best part of teh season.
Click to expand...

Thanks for taking the time to post this, very educational (not boat mechanically inclined) so it gives me an option to run by the mechanic. Enjoy what's left of the season.
 
Ben Levitt said:
Thanks for taking the time to post this, very educational (not boat mechanically inclined) so it gives me an option to run by the mechanic. Enjoy what's left of the season.
Click to expand...
Let me know how it works out. Hell, i just saw you in Crownsville. I had my work done at Cutter Marina on Middle River. If you get in a bind call/talk to Kyle, head mechanic. Tell him I recommend. Guy knows his stuff and i cant say enough good things about how friendly and professional they are.
My buddy and i jerked around with this for 2 months, Cutter found the problem in 4 hours. If it weren’t for some backordered parts they would have had done in 2 days.
 
Last edited:
I will pass this info to my mechanic who is a partner with Old Line Marine out of Smith's Marina in Crownsville off the Severn River. He actually spent a lot of time in Middle River so he wanted to know who your marina was - so thanks for providing the info before I even asked!! When I refer, will Kyle know who Pirate Lady is?
 
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