Breaking in to a Boat?

alnav

Well-Known Member
GOLD Sponsor
Sep 16, 2009
2,789
West River, MD
Boat Info
40 MY
Engines
QSB 425
I went to my boat this afternoon intending to wait out the rain over the weekend but when I tried to open the door to the salon, no joy. The key inserts fine and turns freely but the handle will not move. I tried my spare key with the same results. I tried to pry the top open with the limited items I had on hand in the cockpit. So, back home for me.
Here's a picture of the door:
Salon Hatch.jpeg

As the first step, I'm thinking of removing the four corner screws on the forward part of the upper hatch. I think they secure the runners and once the forward part is free, I'm hoping there's enough clearance to reach the latch from behind or to be able to lever the hatch off the door.
Second would be to try to insert a screwdriver (I've got a really long one) under the area to the front of the hatch and see if that will pry open.
After that, (or before), I'm open to ideas if anyone has had this problem on the same or similar set up. Drilling out the cylinder was suggested but I'm not sure that will do any good. I will drop by the local Sea Ray dealer before I go to the boat to see if they happen to have a latch assembly in stock.
 
The key inserts fine and turns freely but the handle will not move.
Drilling out the cylinder was suggested but I'm not sure that will do any good.
Since the cylinder turns, the key and barrel are working. It sounds more like the linkage has fallen off the back (somehow). Your plan of removing the forward screws would also be my first choice. We'll say a prayer for you!
 
If the handle won't move, could it be "frozen" or wedge into something. Maybe a lot of jiggling of the door and/or some force to break the handle loose? Any chance you can get a "slim jim" in between the latch?
 
Not familiar with the model so forgive my ignorance. Is it possible to access the cabin thru the anchor locker? It can be done on the smaller models.
 
Absolute last resort, if you've ever considered wanting a window/peephole for more light you could do that now using a generic porthole :eek: What is on the other side of the handle?

upload_2021-5-29_5-40-48.png
 
My kids locked the cabin door on my last boat one time and the keys were inside. On that one, the bow hatch latch handles went through the glass and the black outside of the latch turned when the handle turned. Luckily it was not “locked’ inside and I was able to turn the latch using the outside “disk” on the latch.
 
E22E5B61-87A6-4F67-9F7C-E9793B03111F.jpeg
If you turn the 2 “knobs” on the outside of one of the overhead hatches that will open the hatch provided you didn’t lock them by engaging the blue tab inside.
I would put a rag over them and gently turn using a pair of pump pliers”channel locks”
 
Last edited:
Could get some plastic auto trim removal tools (so you don't damage anything) to wedge between the two pieces to see if you can get some working room for a small screwdriver to push the latches open.
 
As the first step, I'm thinking of removing the four corner screws on the forward part of the upper hatch. I think they secure the runners and once the forward part is free, I'm hoping there's enough clearance to reach the latch from behind or to be able to lever the hatch off the door.
That back part is hinged with the front part, right? I'd think if you removed those four screws that back part would lift up and give you plenty of access to reach in there to the backside of the door and manually unlock and open it.
 
A real locksmith probably knows what to do. Pay the 200 and get him to fix the problem.
 
Since the cylinder turns, the key and barrel are working. It sounds more like the linkage has fallen off the back (somehow). Your plan of removing the forward screws would also be my first choice. We'll say a prayer for you!
That back part is hinged with the front part, right? I'd think if you removed those four screws that back part would lift up and give you plenty of access to reach in there to the backside of the door and manually unlock and open it.
Yes, the top hatch is hinged. I'm hoping that will provide enough room to get at the door but I'm unsure of that. I think its possible the front part might come loose from the door as well and that would be ideal.
 
If the handle won't move, could it be "frozen" or wedge into something. Maybe a lot of jiggling of the door and/or some force to break the handle loose? Any chance you can get a "slim jim" in between the latch?
Could get some plastic auto trim removal tools (so you don't damage anything) to wedge between the two pieces to see if you can get some working room for a small screwdriver to push the latches open.
Thanks guys. I think I was too focused on the top where the top hatch is engaged to the door. These comments made me realize I need to also focus on the door latch itself.
 
My kids locked the cabin door on my last boat one time and the keys were inside. On that one, the bow hatch latch handles went through the glass and the black outside of the latch turned when the handle turned. Luckily it was not “locked’ inside and I was able to turn the latch using the outside “disk” on the latch.
View attachment 106233 If you turn the 2 “knobs” on the outside of one of the overhead hatches that will open the hatch provided you didn’t lock them by engaging the blue tab inside.
I would put a rag over them and gently turn using a pair of pump pliers”channel locks”
Thanks. I addition to a forward overhead hatch there is a vertical port light in the aft cabin. Either option would require kidnapping my grandson for a few hours to go through the opening, that's never a bad thing.
 
Absolute last resort, if you've ever considered wanting a window/peephole for more light you could do that now using a generic porthole :eek: What is on the other side of the handle?

View attachment 106229
Thanks. Not a bad idea if it comes to that. I found a picture of the other side of the door:
ME-99-15offshflush-5.jpg

Could be tough to get a tool around that gasket.
 
I'll bet your original plan with the four screws on the front part of the top hatch would pan out. If you can't reach the latch from the available opening, bring something like a long screwdriver and try to depress the catch where it hits the striker. You should also be able to reach under and unlatch the front part of the top hatch so you can lift it.
 
So, got in today. Creekwood and Havana Shamrock called it, escape hatch from forward berthing wasn't locked and I was able un-dog it using my palms. Dropped a grandson in the hatch and he let me in. Kind of scary how easy it turned out to be. Quite frankly, I would probably have locked the hatch if I realized it but glad I didn't.
Now to fix the door. The same lock mechanism is used in several models but the dealer had sold the last one and not re-stocked. Flounder Pounder has it as well. I ordered from both and if FP comes through the dealer will be happy to have the stock.
The complete mechanism costs about $150. But, only the lock cylinder needs changing:
IMG_1411.jpeg

Every boat I've owned had the same type of key so I'm thinking I can find the cylinder and return the mechanism.
 
What actually was it that broke and caused the key not to unlock it?
 

Forum statistics

Threads
113,253
Messages
1,429,373
Members
61,133
Latest member
Willbeckett
Back
Top