Broken bilge pump switch - 1993 27' SeaRay Weekended

[Bob St John]

Folks,

I've got a 1993 27' SeaRay Weekender with a broken bilge pump switch (for the engine compartment bilges). I must have leaned against the switch (which is lower left of the steering wheel) and broke the "toggle" part of the switch. I'm attempting to replace the broken switch and ran into a dilemma I need your guidance on.

From the "1993 27' SeaRay Weekender Parts" publication, I have determined that the Bilge pump switch is part number "E80 - 195487". I Googled "SeaRay 195487" and received only one result, which led me to Ebay ProdID = 1945670543 which, in turn, led me to part number SR1757312. This appeared to be the right replacement switch, so I ordered it.

I tried to replace the broken switch today, and quickly realized the electrical connecting points are different ... see the attached pictures. Note that the broken switch has no identification other than can be seen in the picture.



Can anyone help me understand what I need to do to replace the broken bilge pump switch?

Thanks,

Bob St John

 

[Golfman25]

Via the writing that is a carling switch. Should be able to match up something via west marine or other stores and google. Maybe start here: https://www.carlingtech.com/switches

 

[Bill Curtis]

Looks like a Carling Contura switch.
Newwire sells just the switch covers, too
https://newwiremarine.com/marine-grade-switches/

They are readily available almost anywhere that sells boat parts.

 

[Bob St John]

Golfman25 and Bill Curtis ... thanks for your guidance, you put me on the right track towards understanding the dilemma:

1. On the broken switch there are two wires (blue and black) that appeared to be connected to two side-by-side connectors on the bad switch, but there is only one equivalent connector on the new switch. On closer examination of the bad switch the blue and black wires are physically connected so they both are connected to a single connector on the new switch.
2. On the new switch one connector is labeled "Blue" and that gave me a clear indication of where the blue (and black) wires connect.

I think I now have clear direction of how and where connectors go on the new switch.

Thanks,

Bob St John

 

[Scott215]

So everything works good

 

[Bob St John]

Yep ... removed the broken switch, installed the new switch, and everything works good! No problems other than dealing with the hard to get at and small space to work in.

Trivia ... some of you may know that the toggle switches on this boat are lighted at the end of the toggle, and this boat was built with green lights at then end of each toggle. I couldn't find a green lighted switch, so I ordered one with blue lighting. So I now have a bunch of green lighted, and a single blue lighted switch (for the new bilge pump switch), and I think this might be a good thing!

Thanks for all your help and support.

Bob St John

 

[Scott215]

Glad you got it fixed That's one thing you for sure don't want to be without is a bilge pump

 

[Bob St John]

Folks,

Just a clarification ... the broken toggle on the bilge pump switch affected only the manual activation of the bilge pumps ... automatic operation of the bilge pumps continued as designed.

Thanks,

Bob St John

 

[Scott215]

That's good

 

[Jim P.]

I have a 2008 210 sundeck with the same type toggle switches. . Can you tell me if the dash panel just pops out and don't have to get behind them to get to switches.