Broken board in engine compartment lid to 210 Sport??

[glocklt4]

I noticed lately that my two snap straps to the engine compartment lid of my 210 Sport have been very tight... to the point where i had to sit on it to get it to snap. So yesterday when preparing the boat to go out i was checking the engine out and went to close the lid and noticed that the hinge and lid were at two different angles. I felt around a bit and it does indeed look like the board in there has snapped very close to the hinge . My snap straps won't reach well because the board inside the lid has overlapped and is too far towards the stern.

Any recommendations on what to do about this? I'm pretty frustrated with the quality of the seats board material and now the engine cover too. I've had both of the rear seat boards break on me (replaced one with marine plywood, still need to do the other), and now this will probably be a HUGE pain to fix. It does appear that the engine compartment cover has wood inside because it looks light brown (not the white starboard or whatever of the rear seats...)

Do i really need to take that whole thing off and replace the board in there??

 

[300SR]

Any pictures? Would help answering your question.

 

[glocklt4]

Yes, I will get some, but unfortunately it's going to be a couple weeks as i'm leaving the country on a dive trip in a couple days.

 

[Lazy Daze]

I think pictures of what you're actually doing to get those boards to break would be more appropriate... or at least more entertaining! :smt001


Depending on how far the break is away from the hinge... you might, might be able to get away with screwing in a board that overlaps both pieces... if there's enough clearance between the underside of the board and whatever it rests against when closed. If it does work, I think it would be temporary, at best. However, I think the answer is going to be the one you didn't want to hear. Overall, though, not a "hard" job - just a little time consuming - it's just like a big seat.

 

[glocklt4]

Haha, well the rear seats I'm sure were just from someone stepping right in the middle of the seat with a heavy foot. Not taking out any 200-300lb er's, so really questionable as to how strong starboard is after that. The one I need to replace still I ended up just putting galvanized steel brackets on from home depot. It's holding ok for this season, but obviously this winter i get to tackle that one. I wish I had a great story for the engine compartment lid, but I honestly have no idea how it happened. We've been having 105-110 degree heat here in Dallas, so I wonder if that hasn't contributed...?

Unfortunately, the break in the rear engine lid is probably only 3-4 inches from the edge, so I really doubt that i would be able to put some brackets on there to hold it for any long term timeframe. Maybe if I got one wide one and it went the entire length of the break...

So since you say it's just like a big seat, I guess all i have to do is unbolt the hinge and hydraulics to get it off, then take off the vinyl (oh boy that's going to take forever after how long it took on that one seat I've done!), and then cut out a new one to the same shape... right? Definitely needs to be a winter activity, so maybe some brackets on there for the final couple months of the season will get me by...

 

[Lazy Daze]

Yup - it's pretty straight forward. Since you've already done something like this once, it probably won't take you as long as you're thinking.... 'course it depends on how much you "think" 'bout it and how much you actually "do" it, you know?

To protect your jump seats in the future, try something like this: cut a piece of starboard to the approximate shape of one of your seats and use that as a "step pad" by simply placing it on the seat when you want to use it. Round the edges well so it doesn't dig into the vinyl. I'd shy away from stapling carpet onto a piece of starboard or plywood - don't want to have a staple start to pull out and end up in your vinyl. But, gluing the carpet onto a piece of ply would work.

 

[glocklt4]

Thanks for the advice. Yes, now that I've done the one seat (actually I had to do it twice because i used regular staples before and not stainless... oops!), the other seat shouldn't take that long and I imagine it won't be that difficult to figure out the top. My wife says you must know me in regards to the "depends on how much time you think about it to actually doing it" statement, haha.

Good idea with a board to cover the seats to spread the load!

What kind of glue do you recommend? The seats on mine were originally stapled so I just replaced them with the same thing (the second time around though, ha).

 

[Lazy Daze]

My wife says you must know me in regards to the "depends on how much time you think about it to actually doing it" statement, haha.

Tell her that's only 'cause I've "been there, done that"! :lol:

Glue: Staples are fine for your seats - I was referring to the "step board". But, something as simple as Gorilla Glue would be fine if you're using plywood for the step board.

 

[glocklt4]

Tell her that's only 'cause I've "been there, done that"! :lol:

Glue: Staples are fine for your seats - I was referring to the "step board". But, something as simple as Gorilla Glue would be fine if you're using plywood for the step board.

Ahh, i see. I didn't realize you were talking about the step board. Good thinking. I'll post some pics of the crack when i'm back from Curacao/Bonaire in a couple weeks and let you know if I think I can get a brace on there to last the rest of the season.