Can you splice bonding wire?

[ZZ13]

I have to replace a bonding wire connection to a strainer as the wire broke off at the terminal. There is not enough wire left to strip back to good wire and put on a new terminal. Can I splice in new wire or do I have to replace the whole point-to-point run?

 

[JimG]

Since it's just the strainer, you can splice it... solder would be even better. Which ever way you do it, shrink tube it to make it water tight.

 

[Sous]

Since it's just the strainer, you can splice it... solder would be even better. Which ever way you do it, shrink tube it to make it water tight.

Agreed, done properly there will be minimal added resistance due to the splice. You've likely got more resistance in the system due to all the cruddy connections along the way, a nice clean splice soldered and insulated will be just fine.

 

[estoltz]

Might I also recommend dielectric grease under the shrink tube. I use it religiously on my exterior automotive and amateur radio work.

 

[Bob & Sue]

I'm not a boat electronics expert by any means, I have done several wiring projects with the help of a marine electronics installer his advice was never to solder any connections unless required like a battery terminal connector. To splice a wire I use a connector and shrink wrap it this is usually required per ABYC code. Some may have other opinions I'm not the expert but have followed their advice without any problems in 4 years with a salt water boat.

Here is a link I had saved that explains the pros & cons.

http://www.marinewireandcable.com/2013/11/crimping-vs-soldering-marine-cable-and.html

 

[Bob & Sue]

Might I also recommend dielectric grease under the shrink tube. I use it religiously on my exterior automotive and amateur radio work.

Good point make sure not to get dielectric on any contact points as it doesn't conduct electricity.

 

[Westie]

Since it's just the strainer, you can splice it... solder should not be used. Which ever way you do it, shrink tube it to make it water tight.

Fify

The best way is to use a proper crimp (using the right tool) and adhesive lined heat shrink over top.

 

[JimG]

Fify

The best way is to use a proper crimp (using the right tool) and adhesive lined heat shrink over top.

"Since it's just the strainer, you can splice it... solder should not be used. Which ever way you do it, shrink tube it to make it water tight."

This has been debated for years throughout many industries... Pros and Cons for both.

IMO, its all about technique...

 

[Sous]

"Since it's just the strainer, you can splice it... solder should not be used. Which ever way you do it, shrink tube it to make it water tight."

This has been debated for years throughout many industries... Pros and Cons for both.

IMO, its all about technique...

Agreed. I'm not a "marine" electrician, but have been a regular 'ol electrician in 3 states and have worked in low voltage industries for 20+ years.

That said, in all honesty, a properly made connection (which ever method you choose) will likely be just fine for many years to come.

 

[mwph]

Can I ask why the strainer should be treated any differently than any of the other components in the system?

I can not enter the debate over when to solder or not to. It just seems to me that to doing anything differently because "Since its just the strainer" is cutting a corner that need not be cut. Also seems to me that replacing the bonding wire would be just as easy as patching in a short piece.

As always, I only ask so that I can learn.

 

[Lazy Daze]

"Technique" for a soldered connection is the key. Just a little too much and the solder wicks too far out into the wire and with the vibration that a boat endures, the wires will eventually break at the point just past the solder since it, in essence, creates a fixed flex point. As opposed to a non-soldered wire where the entire wire can flex. Done correctly, it's fine. But there's also nothing wrong with a properly crimped connection - the addition of adhesive shrink makes that even better.

 

[mvoellinger]

I imagine solder or crimping will hold up just fine right up until the next time you step on it in the bilge. Thats about the life span of my bilge pumps - whenever a mechanic is on the boat.

 

[JimG]

Can I ask why the strainer should be treated any differently than any of the other components in the system?

I can not enter the debate over when to solder or not to. It just seems to me that to doing anything differently because "Since its just the strainer" is cutting a corner that need not be cut. Also seems to me that replacing the bonding wire would be just as easy as patching in a short piece.

As always, I only ask so that I can learn.

In other words, since it's an end device as opposed to a main bonding bus/connection, a splice at the strainer would not affect the overall performance of the bonding system.

 

[ZZ13]

Thanks everyone. Worst case if I screw up the connection is one less device to spread the stray current over. I have about a dozen or so end items bonded. So that wouldn't be too bad of a problem.

 

[mwph]

Jim - I thought that it being, as you called it, an end device that this may be the reasoning. But then I struggled to envision other devices being chained together.

I guess there are more items that need to be bonded then I can think of off the top of my head.

 

[MasterFab]

Sorry to throw a wrench into the debate, but soldered splices on a bonding connection are not best practice. Beyond the issues of fatigue and strain relief in a soldered connection, bonding systems have another issue with soldered splices, and that is lightning. In the event of a lightning strike, a soldered splice can be compromised due to heat, allowing the wires to separate when the solder melts and runs away from the joint. This failure may not be readily visible, leaving the bonded item unprotected with respect to galvanic corrosion, moving forward. Yes, it's an unlikely event, but has been known to happen, so why tempt fate? I would run a new wire, or make the splice with a crimped connector and shrink tubing, as previously recommended. You can always solder, carefully, after splicing with a crimp connector, but a new cable would be the best solution.

Dale

 

[ZZ13]

Its done. I used a crimp connector.

 

[mquiet]

Great timing on this question/topic. I have to crimp my rudder bonding wires as they broke on both sides between the rudder through hole mount and the tiller arm. Any thoughts on crimping there? Or just get new wire?


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[jthatcher]

Sorry to throw a wrench into the debate, but soldered splices on a bonding connection are not best practice. Beyond the issues of fatigue and strain relief in a soldered connection, bonding systems have another issue with soldered splices, and that is lightning. In the event of a lightning strike, a soldered splice can be compromised due to heat, allowing the wires to separate when the solder melts and runs away from the joint. This failure may not be readily visible, leaving the bonded item unprotected with respect to galvanic corrosion, moving forward. Yes, it's an unlikely event, but has been known to happen, so why tempt fate? I would run a new wire, or make the splice with a crimped connector and shrink tubing, as previously recommended. You can always solder, carefully, after splicing with a crimp connector, but a new cable would be the best solution.

Dale

Dale,

If there was ever a lightning strike that was strong enough to melt the solder on the splice there wouldn't be enough boat left to worry about that splice. Transient spikes from a close lightning strike will not have any effect on the solder connection at all.

 

[ZZ13]

Great timing on this question/topic. I have to crimp my rudder bonding wires as they broke on both sides between the rudder through hole mount and the tiller arm. Any thoughts on crimping there? Or just get new wire?


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If it were me I'd cut off the existing wire in a convenient to work spot and crimp in a new wire to run the rest of the way to the rudder - because, well, that's what I just did. It seems to be a real solid connection. I double crimped each side to make sure the full surface of the crimp connector was squeezed down onto the bare wire.