Caution! Icom m422 install on the 240sd

denwatson

Member
Aug 3, 2010
74
California Delta
Boat Info
2007 240 Sundeck and before that 1988 Sea Ray Sorrento 23
Engines
350 MAG MPI BravoIII and before that 5.0 Merc 260 with Alpha drive
Most would agree that having a VHF radio on board is a good thing. Cell phones are great but batteries die and dead zones are numerous. We boat on the California Delta and there is lots of VHF traffic and a very strong Coast Guard and law enforcement presence, both use VHF. Our last time out we had two USCG alerts, one vessel aground and another adrift without power. With these facts in mind I started my research on buying and installing a VHF system on our boat. My first stop was Club Sea Ray where I threw out a question about where to install the radio and antenna. Chuck1 and avguy shared their installs and advice which was very helpful. On our last Sea Ray a 1988 Sorrento 23 we had a Standard Horizon VHF which worked flawlessly for 22 years. You'd think just buy another one, but the ICOM kept popping up in the reviews so we finally opted for the IC-M422. It's loaded with features, has a large and informative display, and a speaker that blows you away. It is DSC capable and when you select a channel is tells you what that channel is used for, like port operations, ship to ship or pleasure etc. Believe it or not we have frequent ocean going freighters onthe delta. This is cool because because we've heard the Coast Guard hammering boaters who use the VHF like a CB. I bought the radio on line at Ultimate Passage in Ohio for $186 and $9 shipping. On our old Sea Ray we used the Shakespeare 5400-XP antenna and 5187 SS ratchet mount and we stuck with those choices a total of $122 at Ultimate Passage. The 5400-XP is a four footer and only 3DB gain but we are able to pick up USCG San Francisco and , of course, USCG Rio Vista the local station. There are numerous bridges on the Delta and some of them get mighty low to the water at high tide so the longer antennas can get inconvenient lowering and raising all the time. OK time to start with the antenna. There is a flat area forward of and even with the starboard portlight(see photos that follow). The antenna mounts here perfectly and is easily accessable from the bow. Just drill four holes for the SS mount and three more for the thru hull cable fitting, get a buddy to back the bolts while you squeeze into the helm storage locker and tighten them up. The antenna cable comes through the deck and drops neatly down into the wiring raceway and routes to behind the dash for connecting. I trimmed the cable to the appropriate length because it comes in a 20 ft. section, installed and soldered the PL-259 connector and now it's time for the radio. Based on advice from other members I decided to flush mount the radio to the immediate left of the helm. That area is not quite flat but it will do. I fussed and measured and basically did anything I could do to postpone drilling and cutting that hole until I ran out of options. CAUTION #1! Always read the instructions carefully. The ICOM flush mount kit MB-69 is used for several ICOM radios and comes with a mounting template. The problem is the template is for the IC-M45 not the M-422. I had unkowingly used the the template for the M-45 marked up my lines and determined that a 5/8" hole saw was perfect for the rounded corners. I drilled my first hole. Whew. So I'm looking at the template and then at the M-422 and there is no way that radio is going to go in that hole. Back to the manuals and the mistake was discovered. The M-422 template is the last page in the owners manual. Dumb luck saves the day, I still had time to correct the error. Folks this area of the dash is like one inch thick in spots and is not easy to cut. CAUTION #2! When using a jig saw, always turn the saw off before removing the blade from the cutting area. There is a reason it's called the "jig" saw because if it's running when you remove the blade it will dance a "jig" all over your dash and it did. Luckily the mic clip wound up covering most of the damage but be careful. OK so we've got the hole in the dash, I'm covered with fine sawdust, the dash inside and outside is covered with dust what a mess. Get the vacuum and clean up. Time to slip the radio into the dash but do your connections first. The leads that come with the VHF are long enough to route to the fuse panel and Sea Ray has conveniently left pos and neg studs available. Squeeze a couple of female blade connectors on the leads, connect the antenna and you are hooked up. I ever so gently edge the radio towards the hole and it won't go in. It's now a matter of file a little and try again until it wedges in nice and tight and that turns out to be a good thing as you will soon see. CAUTION #3! Always determine the maximum thickness your radio will accept in a flush mount application. Now I'm uncomfortably stuffed into the helm locker with the back dash panel removed. I'm looking at the back of the radio and with the flush mount bracket and screw and with one hand carefully move the bracket towards the left side of the radio. Damn! The dash is so thick there is not enough room to mount the bracket. The screw hole on the radio is too close to the front of the radio. OK, I already know you would have to be a magician to hold the bracket and screw in one hand and try to feel the screw into the right hand side of the radio which you can't even see. At this point my so called "research" seems to have some holes in it. I crawl out if the locker and look at the radio. I tug on the radio. I jiggle the radio. Try to move it up and down. It is solid because of the "file a little at a time method". I think I'm OK without the flush mount brackets but I don't think I'd recommend this to other boaters. We spent our last ten days of the season with this VHF and it was OK but only because of the very tight fit. Alright, boat is cleaned up, I've got a beer after an exciting install that came out OK in spite of myself and it is time to share my success with the "boss". Out she comes, climbs in to the boat and the first words out of her mouth are "couldn't you have gotten that radio thing in black? It would have looked so much better with the rest of the dash". Well, some days are like that. In retrospect a little smaller VHF would be better choice if you decide to flush mount, or a radio with the bracket screw holes placed further towards the back of the radio. This mounting area is good for other passengers to see and use radio and the speaker fires right down the middle of the boat so all can hear. In that final dash photo you can see a kind of ugly round gizmo in the center of the wheel. That is a gravity activated rudder indicator manufactured by Davis Instruments, $20. I've used one forever because most of what we did all these years was ski and to know where your outdrive is pointing in a river with a 4 knot current was very helpful while lining up a pull. Also up higher on the dash are two little round SS units a clock and a thermometer very nice instruments available for $40 each at automotive on line stores. Well I hope this little story will prevent heart palpitations for some other poor soul who thought that he had "researched" an ICOM VHF installation. Happy Boating! PS Next season when I install my GPS and have to hook up the DSC leads it's going to be mighty convenient to slide the radio out of its hole and back in without messing with flush mount brackets!
 

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Good Looking setup!!
Only thing I would have done different is mount the antenna back by the mid cleat so you can reach it while at the helm.
 
You never shorten a cable without using a SWR meter.The length is already somewhat "tuned" for vhf freq.Nice to have a new radio BUT a lot nicer having it put out a full 25 watts and not 5 watts of power.
 
In response to bt dotur's comments I checked with Shakespeare Antennas tech deptartment and spoke to Chris head of the department. He assured me that the cable on any of their antennas can be trimmed subject to a minimum length of three feet with no impact on the SWR. This fits with the fact that there is no mention of SWR in any or their instruction manuals.
 
Wow, beautiful install! :thumbsup:

I like your rudder angle gizmo on the steering wheel too :grin: (I have the same one on my 24' cruiser)
 
Thanks Packdad. Now what's a nice Washingtonian like you doing rooting for the U of Nevada Wolfpack. Could it be you have offspring in the Wolfpack? Good luck to the Pack!
 
Thanks Packdad. Now what's a nice Washingtonian like you doing rooting for the U of Nevada Wolfpack. Could it be you have offspring in the Wolfpack? Good luck to the Pack!
It could :smt001
We may need more than luck this week against Boise State :smt021
 
Great job! Clean install. Thanks for sharing. For a moment I was wistfully remembering our beloved 240SD...enjoy!
 
I like your rudder angle gizmo on the steering wheel too :grin: (I have the same one on my 24' cruiser)

Rudder angle gizmo?? Please explain! I see that device there, but am unfamiliar with it. This may be something I'd be much interested in!

Tom
 
Rudder angle gizmo?? Please explain! I see that device there, but am unfamiliar with it. This may be something I'd be much interested in!

Tom
It is a pretty useful gadget, but you have to re-set it once in a while so put it on your steering wheel with Velcro.
00385.jpg
 
Personally I dont agree with his answer because I have been around radios for a long time and RF is still RF no matter what frequency.But I will post it. I would still borrow a meter to check the reading.

"This is not a characteristic that is used in VHF antennas as there is no tuning in the coax like CB. As such, this caps can be cut to whatever length is wanted without affecting the performance of the antenna."


Regards,
Shakespeare Technical Support
 
Thanks BT, I have to admit that I don't know about the SWR and VHF I'm just a user trying to figure out how to use the radio. The tech stuff is over my head and I sure appreciated your input!.
 
Think of it as a sine wave(roller coaster hills and valleys) .All RF transmitters have a certain impedance (resistance) that they prefer to see. CB,VHF, SSB ,10Meter ham, etc. are all different lengths. CB uses a 9 ft whip or a base loaded unit with a shorter ant. CB is 52ohm. If I put a resistor of that value directly to the radio I will read the full power capable of being transmitted, When the coax is attached the radio is looking for that 52ohm spot .Cutting the coax untill you find it with the swr meter. anything above or below the base line robs power.
Ideal reading is 1-1 ,meaning full transmitted power is directed to the ant. any other reading robs transmitted power. Say VHF is around 6 ft for optimum performance, any multiple of 6 ft will give the same reading on the swr meter. 6,12,18,24,30,300, etc. the length of the cable is not the issue, it`s the swr reading you get.The farther you get away from the 1-1 reading means your "reflecting" transmitted power back to the radio and it`s not leaving the ant. With hi-power ham units ,a reading of 2.5 -1 or more will blow the transmitter, so in-line meters are a must to constantly monitor it.
Power Loss SWR0%=1:12%=1:3:13%=1:5:16%=1:7:111%=2:125%=3:138%=4:148%=5:170%=10:1
A ratio of 1.1:1 to a 2:1 is usually considered satisfactory for most operations
SWR Function
The SWR Function of the test instrument is probably the most useful test performed. Testing for the SWR of Standing Wave Ratio provides the operator of the transmitter a good indication of the condition of his antenna and antenna lead cable since most antennas are located externally of the transmitter. In order to get the maximum amount of power radiated from the antenna, the lead line or coax and the antenna should be matched to the transmitter. For this meter a 52 ohm match is required which includes most CB operations that use RG-58U or RG-8U coax. Because a perfect match is never achieved the amount of mismatch can be measured by measuring the amount of Standing Waves that exist in the coax or antenna feedline. Measuring the Standing Waves can be accomplished by sampling the forward "FWD" power and the reflected "REF" power and comparing them and then expressing this difference as a ratio of reflected power to forward power. The following ratios are examples of the amount of power loss for a Standing Wave

The key phrase is" In order to get the maximum amount of power radiated from the antenna"
 
Egad! The VHF is coming out and I'm going to a semaphore system. I'll have a better idea of how my radio is putting out next season when I can do some commo checks. The boat is laid up in storage 350 miles from home right now. I'll do the meter check next year but I might be back for more help then. denwatson
 
Yes you are correct the protection circuit in the radio will back it down to protect the radio, when the SWR is high.

Carl Shearer
Technical Support
ICOM America, Inc.
2380 116th Ave. NE
Bellevue, WA 98004

In a nutshell, if the SWR is not correct the radio`s protection reduces the output power going to the ant.
 
Most would agree that having a VHF radio on board is a good thing. Cell phones are great but batteries die and dead zones are numerous. We boat on the California Delta and there is lots of VHF traffic and a very strong Coast Guard and law enforcement presence, both use VHF. Our last time out we had two USCG alerts, one vessel aground and another adrift without power. With these facts in mind I started my research on buying and installing a VHF system on our boat. My first stop was Club Sea Ray where I threw out a question about where to install the radio and antenna. Chuck1 and avguy shared their installs and advice which was very helpful. On our last Sea Ray a 1988 Sorrento 23 we had a Standard Horizon VHF which worked flawlessly for 22 years. You'd think just buy another one, but the ICOM kept popping up in the reviews so we finally opted for the IC-M422. It's loaded with features, has a large and informative display, and a speaker that blows you away. It is DSC capable and when you select a channel is tells you what that channel is used for, like port operations, ship to ship or pleasure etc. Believe it or not we have frequent ocean going freighters onthe delta. This is cool because because we've heard the Coast Guard hammering boaters who use the VHF like a CB. I bought the radio on line at Ultimate Passage in Ohio for $186 and $9 shipping. On our old Sea Ray we used the Shakespeare 5400-XP antenna and 5187 SS ratchet mount and we stuck with those choices a total of $122 at Ultimate Passage. The 5400-XP is a four footer and only 3DB gain but we are able to pick up USCG San Francisco and , of course, USCG Rio Vista the local station. There are numerous bridges on the Delta and some of them get mighty low to the water at high tide so the longer antennas can get inconvenient lowering and raising all the time. OK time to start with the antenna. There is a flat area forward of and even with the starboard portlight(see photos that follow). The antenna mounts here perfectly and is easily accessable from the bow. Just drill four holes for the SS mount and three more for the thru hull cable fitting, get a buddy to back the bolts while you squeeze into the helm storage locker and tighten them up. The antenna cable comes through the deck and drops neatly down into the wiring raceway and routes to behind the dash for connecting. I trimmed the cable to the appropriate length because it comes in a 20 ft. section, installed and soldered the PL-259 connector and now it's time for the radio. Based on advice from other members I decided to flush mount the radio to the immediate left of the helm. That area is not quite flat but it will do. I fussed and measured and basically did anything I could do to postpone drilling and cutting that hole until I ran out of options. CAUTION #1! Always read the instructions carefully. The ICOM flush mount kit MB-69 is used for several ICOM radios and comes with a mounting template. The problem is the template is for the IC-M45 not the M-422. I had unkowingly used the the template for the M-45 marked up my lines and determined that a 5/8" hole saw was perfect for the rounded corners. I drilled my first hole. Whew. So I'm looking at the template and then at the M-422 and there is no way that radio is going to go in that hole. Back to the manuals and the mistake was discovered. The M-422 template is the last page in the owners manual. Dumb luck saves the day, I still had time to correct the error. Folks this area of the dash is like one inch thick in spots and is not easy to cut. CAUTION #2! When using a jig saw, always turn the saw off before removing the blade from the cutting area. There is a reason it's called the "jig" saw because if it's running when you remove the blade it will dance a "jig" all over your dash and it did. Luckily the mic clip wound up covering most of the damage but be careful. OK so we've got the hole in the dash, I'm covered with fine sawdust, the dash inside and outside is covered with dust what a mess. Get the vacuum and clean up. Time to slip the radio into the dash but do your connections first. The leads that come with the VHF are long enough to route to the fuse panel and Sea Ray has conveniently left pos and neg studs available. Squeeze a couple of female blade connectors on the leads, connect the antenna and you are hooked up. I ever so gently edge the radio towards the hole and it won't go in. It's now a matter of file a little and try again until it wedges in nice and tight and that turns out to be a good thing as you will soon see. CAUTION #3! Always determine the maximum thickness your radio will accept in a flush mount application. Now I'm uncomfortably stuffed into the helm locker with the back dash panel removed. I'm looking at the back of the radio and with the flush mount bracket and screw and with one hand carefully move the bracket towards the left side of the radio. Damn! The dash is so thick there is not enough room to mount the bracket. The screw hole on the radio is too close to the front of the radio. OK, I already know you would have to be a magician to hold the bracket and screw in one hand and try to feel the screw into the right hand side of the radio which you can't even see. At this point my so called "research" seems to have some holes in it. I crawl out if the locker and look at the radio. I tug on the radio. I jiggle the radio. Try to move it up and down. It is solid because of the "file a little at a time method". I think I'm OK without the flush mount brackets but I don't think I'd recommend this to other boaters. We spent our last ten days of the season with this VHF and it was OK but only because of the very tight fit. Alright, boat is cleaned up, I've got a beer after an exciting install that came out OK in spite of myself and it is time to share my success with the "boss". Out she comes, climbs in to the boat and the first words out of her mouth are "couldn't you have gotten that radio thing in black? It would have looked so much better with the rest of the dash". Well, some days are like that. In retrospect a little smaller VHF would be better choice if you decide to flush mount, or a radio with the bracket screw holes placed further towards the back of the radio. This mounting area is good for other passengers to see and use radio and the speaker fires right down the middle of the boat so all can hear. In that final dash photo you can see a kind of ugly round gizmo in the center of the wheel. That is a gravity activated rudder indicator manufactured by Davis Instruments, $20. I've used one forever because most of what we did all these years was ski and to know where your outdrive is pointing in a river with a 4 knot current was very helpful while lining up a pull. Also up higher on the dash are two little round SS units a clock and a thermometer very nice instruments available for $40 each at automotive on line stores. Well I hope this little story will prevent heart palpitations for some other poor soul who thought that he had "researched" an ICOM VHF installation. Happy Boating! PS Next season when I install my GPS and have to hook up the DSC leads it's going to be mighty convenient to slide the radio out of its hole and back in without messing with flush mount brackets!
FYI the IC-M422.has a $30.00 rebate from Icom:thumbsup:
 

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