Cutlass Bearings!

[sfilb]

Just a general question for my fellow Sea Ray enthusiasts before I follow up… Recently I had to have both cutlass bearings replaced. I thought about buying the tool and doing it myself but $400 for a one trick tool didn’t clear the Admirals budget. At any rate I couldn’t get on the schedule for my regular, and trusted mechanic, so I found someone with good reviews. They wouldn't quote the job saying it can vary- Ok fine I get that, but I just received an invoice for 7 hours of labor to replace 2 cutlass bearings that were 2 years old so obviously not “welded” in. (Extra info - Boat was on the Hard and raised 3 feet to get easy access, and its a 340 so the props and bearing are small and easily managed.
Does this seem outlandish to anyone or am I crazy to think I could have done it in 4 with the tool?
Thank you for any and all opinions.

 

[Golfman25]

I guess my first question would be why did they need replaced after 2 years? That seems pretty short.

As for 7 hours, for 2 bearings -- that's 3.5 per. Doesn't seem too crazy to me. Funny how time goes. Props need to come off. 1-1.5 to fight each one out. 1-1.5 to fight each one in. Plus some setup/takedown time.

 

[Nick 55]

So my experience is not on a 340, but another V-drive boat. If cutlass bearing needs replaced at 2 years, you need to stop, and look hard at shaft runout as well as prop balance and engine alignment to the shaft. 7 hours isn’t too bad for two shafts, I’d have gladly paid for that with my one on a ski boat after my experience. This repair involves removing the prop, the shaft (which involves removing the flange that attaches to the transmission) as well as cutting the old bushing and pressing it out. The installation isn’t too bad, I used threaded rod with washers and nuts to pull the new bushings in. That is all not too bad after the first time doing it. But checking and adjusting alignment with the stuffing tube and engine are important. If the strut is bent slightly you may be able to tweak it but it gets uncomfortable doing that.

 

[my3sons]

Doesn’t seem bad at all. I bought the tool because I was quoted $1k, more if there were problems. Another member here with the same boat told me he paid $1200. It took me about 12 hours but I had to drill out one set screw (original bearings at 17 years). Unfortunately if one doesn’t do their own work, nothing is cheap and there’s always glitches no matter who does the work.

 

[dtfeld]

7 hours is a deal. Its a BIG job.

I borrowed a tool, but still it was a 2 day job for me. Getting the shaft out can be tricky/time consuming and I also stripped a set screw so that took time. I when back with all new nuts on the coupler shaft, set screws etc.

 

[sfilb]

Thanks all - Obviously I’m concerned about the short life, first step now that the new bearings are in is to have the alignment adjusted on both sides. Props were reconditioned 2 years ago, and there is no evidence of strikes, so I’m crossing my fingers that alignment is the key. I know removing a shaft can be time consuming, but they used a press and did not remove the shafts. Fresh paint on the shafts was untouched and the boat was locked and powered down.

 

[Skybolt]

I bought the tool to replace bearings that weren't even bad, I just wanted to have a base line. It took me almost 5 hrs each. They were a bear and I have done this before. So your 7 hrs isn't out of line.

But the question that wasn't answered is , why after two years did you replace them?

 

[ttmott]

Most shops charge for drive time to and from the job.

 

[sfilb]

I bought the tool to replace bearings that weren't even bad, I just wanted to have a base line. It took me almost 5 hrs each. They were a bear and I have done this before. So your 7 hrs isn't out of line.

But the question that wasn't answered is , why after two years did you replace them?

When I did my spring launch walk around I noticed that about a 1/8 inch of rubber on the starboard side cutlass was sticking out of the back of the strut. When I went to turn it by hand it was definitely catching - Mechanic told me the Port was fouled as well, even though I could turn that one freely I decided to reset both sides to keep everything on an even schedule. What is perplexing is that when I put the boat away it was running smooth as butter - I would assume a blown cutlass should have been giving a noticeable vibration right?

 

[Skybolt]

When I did my spring launch walk around I noticed that about a 1/8 inch of rubber on the starboard side cutlass was sticking out of the back of the strut. When I went to turn it by hand it was definitely catching - Mechanic told me the Port was fouled as well, even though I could turn that one freely I decided to reset both sides to keep everything on an even schedule. What is perplexing is that when I put the boat away it was running smooth as butter - I would assume a blown cutlass should have been giving a noticeable vibration right?

Rubber sticking out of the back? Was it also missing from the front side? Either way yes that is bad. Where did you get the bearings from? But I would have to say if both sides looked the same then you have something else going on and there isn't much to choose from. Bent struts, shaft(s) and/or engines missed aligned very badly.

The problem I have is that both are the same, almost impossible. Was there a lot of work done? Engines removed, shafts removed? I would check the shaft run out, but the shaft(s) need to turn freely, so maybe disconnect them and then check the run out. After the bearings are replaced, re-align the engines, first out of the water and then check it after a week in the water and re-do if needed. Two years and this happens, something is amiss.

 

[sfilb]

Rubber sticking out of the back? Was it also missing from the front side? Either way yes that is bad. Where did you get the bearings from? But I would have to say if both sides looked the same then you have something else going on and there isn't much to choose from. Bent struts, shaft(s) and/or engines missed aligned very badly.

The problem I have is that both are the same, almost impossible. Was there a lot of work done? Engines removed, shafts removed? I would check the shaft run out, but the shaft(s) need to turn freely, so maybe disconnect them and then check the run out. After the bearings are replaced, re-align the engines, first out of the water and then check it after a week in the water and re-do if needed. Two years and this happens, something is amiss.

Only STBD side had visible issues and the port side turned freely - I’m not entirely convinced port was bad - I cant imagine a shaft or strut getting bent without noticeable prop damage right? I still have my fingers crossed that it is a simple alignment issue. I have a trusted mechanic checking on that next week after she has settled in to the water. Hopefully I’m barking up the right tree here, but obviously I’m now hypersensitive and feeling vibrations that may or may not even exist.

 

[Skybolt]

Only STBD side had visible issues and the port side turned freely - I’m not entirely convinced port was bad - I cant imagine a shaft or strut getting bent without noticeable prop damage right? I still have my fingers crossed that it is a simple alignment issue. I have a trusted mechanic checking on that next week after she has settled in to the water. Hopefully I’m barking up the right tree here, but obviously I’m now hypersensitive and feeling vibrations that may or may not even exist.

Before the boat goes in, I would check the shaft run out. Something made rubber squeeze/slip out the back.

 

[TTG]

Just a general question for my fellow Sea Ray enthusiasts before I follow up… Recently I had to have both cutlass bearings replaced. I thought about buying the tool and doing it myself but $400 for a one trick tool didn’t clear the Admirals budget. At any rate I couldn’t get on the schedule for my regular, and trusted mechanic, so I found someone with good reviews. They wouldn't quote the job saying it can vary- Ok fine I get that, but I just received an invoice for 7 hours of labor to replace 2 cutlass bearings that were 2 years old so obviously not “welded” in. (Extra info - Boat was on the Hard and raised 3 feet to get easy access, and its a 340 so the props and bearing are small and easily managed.
Does this seem outlandish to anyone or am I crazy to think I could have done it in 4 with the tool?
Thank you for any and all opinions.

3.5 per side isn’t out of line. I’d be more concerned on why the replacement was so soon.

I always get a kick out of these threads. This is exactly why my mechanic doesn’t put down the hours….only the total labor, although people know his rate anyway. Cuts down on a lot of BS he says. He says customers will say they can do a job faster but it’s usually coming from people who never actually performed it so this cuts out the BS. Every job is one bolt away from becoming an all day affair.

I own a service business with two locations and do the exact same thing. You need this done….labor is X amount. Saves a ton of headaches for both parties.

 

[scooper321]

When I did my spring launch walk around I noticed that about a 1/8 inch of rubber on the starboard side cutlass was sticking out of the back of the strut. When I went to turn it by hand it was definitely catching - Mechanic told me the Port was fouled as well, even though I could turn that one freely I decided to reset both sides to keep everything on an even schedule. What is perplexing is that when I put the boat away it was running smooth as butter - I would assume a blown cutlass should have been giving a noticeable vibration right?

Not always. Had a bearing go bad in my 400DB several years ago. The prop was tight when I bought the boat, so the cutlass was on the to do list. But it never vibrated. Finally got some pier wood jammed in there which kept me from being able to get engine rpm’s up - still no vibration. But the bad bearing and wood scored the shaft so I needed a new shaft and bearing. It may have been original - 16 hrs old. Did them both because that’s what you do when one side has a problem.

 

[The Bill Collector]

You got a bargain on time, but I got 20 years on mine and replaced because I thought it was time...

 

[LMBoat]

As for the strut pro tool, I bought one. I've changed cutless bearings twice. It works great. Not sure on the hours it took as it was part of a big haul out project, but works as advertised. No issues. Another plus is that you can buy a plate for few bucks from them that turns it into a prop remover. That works great as well. So you can get 2 tools in one.

 

[Creekwood]

When I did my spring launch walk around I noticed that about a 1/8 inch of rubber on the starboard side cutlass was sticking out of the back of the strut. When I went to turn it by hand it was definitely catching - Mechanic told me the Port was fouled as well, even though I could turn that one freely I decided to reset both sides to keep everything on an even schedule. What is perplexing is that when I put the boat away it was running smooth as butter - I would assume a blown cutlass should have been giving a noticeable vibration right?

I assume you recently bought this boat used? It’s possible that the previous owner hit something and damaged the props and slightly bent the shafts. Then they replaced the props or maybe had them reconditioned, but didn’t fix the shafts or align the engines/shafts. Then sold the boat. Just a theory, but I have an innate distrust of boat sellers and boat brokers.

 

[hottoddie]

Funny my 1986 Sea Ray has the original cutlass bearings and the hull has about 1400 hours on it. There is a little play but the boat rubs smooth so I'm not replacing them.