DA 330 - 98, battery setup

Rock Sea

New Member
May 24, 2009
31
Montreal, Canada
Boat Info
330 sundancer 1998
Engines
350 mercruiser with shaft
Do you have the same setup ?

I have one charger two banks 40 amp, one bank is use for one battery and the other for 3 battery. :smt101

Regards
Michel
 
Do you have a generator?
 
Two paralleled batteries are for the house loads and the port engine. One battery for the starboard engine only. The fourth battery is only for the genset.

Best regards,
Frank
 
Frank,

I have a similar boat (97 330DA, 7.4 MPI w/v drives) and I always though the 2 starboard batteries were for the starboard engine and the genset. I never knew the 4th battery was only the genset.

What do you think about putting bigger batteries on the port side for house duties and leaving starting batteries on the starboard? Any idea how big would be best?

Thanks, Dan
 
Frank,

I have a similar boat (97 330DA, 7.4 MPI w/v drives) and I always though the 2 starboard batteries were for the starboard engine and the genset. I never knew the 4th battery was only the genset.

What do you think about putting bigger batteries on the port side for house duties and leaving starting batteries on the starboard? Any idea how big would be best?

Thanks, Dan

Frank is the man when it come to the 330DA.

My only thoughts on going larger on the port side. I like the idea on the surface but it raises a question to me. Would it imbalance the charge system.

If you look beside the charger on your boat is a gold heat sync which if I remember right from one of Frank's other posts act as a balance point to charge all 4 batteries. I would wonder if the larger port batteries would throw the system out of balance and cause poor performance or other issues down the road.. :huh:
 
Frank,

I have a similar boat (97 330DA, 7.4 MPI w/v drives) and I always though the 2 starboard batteries were for the starboard engine and the genset. I never knew the 4th battery was only the genset.

What do you think about putting bigger batteries on the port side for house duties and leaving starting batteries on the starboard? Any idea how big would be best?

Thanks, Dan

I would imagine that your boat is wired the same as Just Ducky. I have found that over the last 10 years of ownership, that I have never exhausted the two group 27 batteries that power the house loads and port engine except when the fuse for the converter blows. Then I guess the day after the fuse blows I get into a low voltage situation. Anchored out, we never have a problem whether or not the genset if running.

Group 31s should fit without a problem if you want larger. Frank W recommends Optima AGM batteries for those who want more performance. I use cheap flooded cell batteries since they work well enough for me.

My only thoughts on going larger on the port side. I like the idea on the surface but it raises a question to me. Would it imbalance the charge system.

If you look beside the charger on your boat is a gold heat sync which if I remember right from one of Frank's other posts act as a balance point to charge all 4 batteries. I would wonder if the larger port batteries would throw the system out of balance and cause poor performance or other issues down the road.. :huh:

No, it would be ok to go with larger batteries on your port side. Just ensure that both batteries, because they are connected in parallel are exactly the same. The same size, age, type, manufacture, and condition. Otherwise if one is weaker than the other, the weak will discharge the strong.

The gold anodized heat sink hold a set of rectifiers. The rectifiers allow the alternator output from both engines to charge both batteries while isolating each battery bank from the other. Since the rectifiers isolate that battery banks from each other and since the alternator's output is regulated to 14.2 or so, different batteries on port and starboard would be OK.
 
Ok, as long as were on the subject, my port volt guage shows 12+ at idle, and lowers to approx 9 at higher rpm, Time for an alternator ? No issues whatsoever on strbrd
 
Ok, as long as were on the subject, my port volt guage shows 12+ at idle, and lowers to approx 9 at higher rpm, Time for an alternator ? No issues whatsoever on strbrd

MINE TOO!! small world. Well I am still going after that one. I had to replace my fresh water pump last weekend, but now that, that is ok its onto this.

Some things I plan on doing shortly. Put my Fluke meter onto the batteries and see what its reading I trust it more then the gauges. I have checked the water in the cells, all but one that one has the terminal blocking the cover so I have to remove the terminal to get to the cover, I am suspect of those cells.

My port engine start turns slower on start then my starboard. I suspect that I either have corroded cables or have a bad cell/cells in one of the batteries in the bank. I am looking to get a battery load tester and run them on that and see what I get. If they pass muster then its onto the battery cables. If all else fails its onto the alternator.

Mine is a bit strange. If I run with none of the 12V panel loads on I get around 13-13.5 V on the guage at idle, lower at cruise. If I have load on, stereo, frig, so there is draw on the battery, it is lower 12V. It also oscilates up and down no matter what, where the starboard side stays rock solid all the time...

Does yours do that?
 
Last edited:
If I run with none of the 12V panel loads on
I can't say i've ever tried that, this has been like this for 2 summers now, Forgot to look into it when it was out, but i never notice any oscilation , the guages seem to be still, other than the decrease when the rpm increase...
 
Ok, as long as were on the subject, my port volt guage shows 12+ at idle, and lowers to approx 9 at higher rpm, Time for an alternator ? No issues whatsoever on strbrd

If the drive belt is clean and tight so that it's not slipping, then the mostly likely problem is the alternator's rectifiers. Probably have a shorted rectifier or two that is driving AC to the output. You can check that a couple of ways. The best way is with an oscilloscope on the output stud and look for AC ripples. The easiest is to listen to the stereo. If AC is being superimposed on the 12VDC buss, then it should make its way into the stereo and be audible as a whine that changes with engine RPM. Or you can open the alternator's case and check the rectifiers with an ohm meter. If using a DVM, use the diode check setting.

If you have the alternator open, and find bad rectifiers, just replace them. They're cheap! If the brushes look worn, change them too. They only cost a couple of bucks. Rectifiers and brushes are the same for boat and auto applications. The entire alternator assembly and the regulator are different between cars and boats. Don't substitute those!

Best regards,
Frank

Best regards,
Frank
 

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