DIY Bravo III stainless propeller polishing

[Lazy Daze]

Test the mercathode system on a trailer boat without shore power? Really?

The Mercathode system is a 12V item, not a 120V item. While not ideal, you can test it out of the water to at least see if it's "supposedly" doing it's thing - the controller, anyways.

"Timing props"... this is one of those long-time myths. However, there is some truth to it - but the truth centers around the old, Mercruiser Blackhawk drives. Those needed to have their props timed or the two props would pound water into the anti-ventilation plate. Every once in a great, great, GREAT while you hear about how timing the props on a B3 took care of a vibration issue... but it's pretty rare. NOW, even knowing all this... I still time 'em!

Your original anodes (assuming either Mg or Al) where just fine. You didn't need to throw them away - they had plenty of life left in them - plenty (from what I could see in the pic, anyways). The new ones will not work any better than the old ones. Did you check around with local, experienced, boaters (with B3's) to see if Mg is the better anode for your particular waters? Often times, Al works better.

Brass/steel brush... the reason I mentioned it was that a steel brush will sometimes leave traces of itself in the SS - not always something you can feel. This can lead to rust spotting. Not the end of the world, though. Although any left in the Al of the drive can hasten galvanic corrosion - but it will be minor.

 

[iBoat Skipper Doug]

Your original anodes.. The new ones will not work any better than the old ones. Did you check around with local, experienced, boaters (with B3's) to see if Mg is the better anode for your particular waters?

Wow, thank you for taking time and sharing your wisdom. If I see rust on the propellers, I will take them to a shop for polishing and come back here and share the photos. I did wax the props post using the wire cup brush. They feel smooth and look great.

Re: anodes, looking at receipts from the previous owner, the local sea ray dealer installed magnesium anodes on this boat. The local Boat US store closed. The closest thing we have to a boating store now is a hardware store and a sporting goods store. Visiting both, it’s obvious to me their client focus is small aluminum fishing boats. I haven’t even seen anodes for sale. Options are to pay through the nose at the local dealer or buying off the internet.

Re: local wisdom, searching “anodes” at a local boating Facebook group reveals that just like here, everyone has an opioion and there is no clear consisteint answer. Also, water composition varies from bizarrely clear, lime rich water on the Waupaca king chain of lakes to tannin darkened water of Lake Winnebago. The only consistency is its all salt-free fresh water.

Re: old anodes working, well, someone painted them with primer then phantom black paint so I don’t think they would work anymore.

Part of doing these projects is boat care. Part is aesthetic.

This is a trailer boat.

I know I’ve typed that before but could I be making an error in not communicating that enough?

I mean I paid an extra $250 so the trailer rims are nice looking, not the plane Jane ones. I want the boat to look reasonably good in the water and on my driveway. Painting the drive, new anodes, and polishing the props helps with the looks and helps fight drive corrosion during those hours the boat will spend in the water.

Thank you again for sharing your wisdom.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Well, sure, if the anodes were painted... then by all means, replace them!

Being a trailer boat doesn't negate the fact that you still want to do what's best for your rig. Yes, corrosion would of course happen a lot quicker if the boat was in a slip. But it will still happen with a trailer boat, just over a longer period of time. Add to the mix that there's two heavy SS props and a SS prop shaft right next to a hunk of Al (less noble metal), and it hastens the corrosion.

And, let me be clear, that I wasn't expressing an opinion on which anode to use - just that the BEST course of action is determined by history (similar rigs that have been around for a while in your area). However, with the latter pics of the drive, there is certainly galvanic corrosion going on there (but still nothing to worry about it).

The question is... is it because the Mg anodes weren't working well in the fresh water your boat was in before you got it (again, there's many bodies of "fresh" water where Al actually works better)... or is it because of lack of maintenance or painting over them... or some combination there of? Hard to say. The only thing we can safely say is that whatever was done before wasn't good enough.

 

[iBoat Skipper Doug]

The question is... is it because the Mg anodes weren't working well in the fresh water your boat was in before you got it (again, there's many bodies of "fresh" water where Al actually works better)... or is it because of lack of maintenance or painting over them... or some combination there of? Hard to say.

The only thing we can safely say is that whatever was done before wasn't good enough.

I have some boat history specific to this boat, including the original bill of sale and all maintenance recepts. Also, I am convinced I talked to the owner 5-10 yeas ago when I visited the area with a previous boat. I remember talking to a guy who lived in the condo housing complex on the water next to the Menasha Marina that had a cuddy cabin Sea Ray in the water tied to the wharf in front of his condo. He told me he enjoyed getting home from work then going out on the boat. That is where this boat was kept. Sadly, he got cancer and the boat had gone into long term indoor storage.

From looking through the receipts, the previous owner did absolutely no mechanical work himself. Even the simplest task was done by the dealer. He spent more then I would have spent.

Toward the end, the receipts tailed off, as did hours on the meter until one final receipt was the boat being winterized for storage.

The receipts tell me a sad story of what was happening in his life. The receipts also scream at me, telling me to get out and enjoy my life while I am capable.

 

[Captn TJ]

FWIW I think your proposed location for the chart plotter is too low. Particularly for the size unit you can fit in that space. I'm imagining you'll be hunched over trying to manipulate and read that while under way. Not ideal, potentially unsafe?

Have you considered a ram-mount style attachment elevated above the dash or attached to the window? Don't let the sexiness of the flush mount impact the usefulness.

My two cents only...

I'd agree. Depending on the size you may want to relocate it to where you have you you have your GOPro on the tripod.

 

[iBoat Skipper Doug]

I'd agree. Depending on the size you may want to relocate it to where you have you you have your GOPro on the tripod.

Thank you for your feedback Captn TJ. But if I put the Chartplotter where the GoPro is located, where would I put my GoPro? Just kidding.

I replied about this earlier. In breef, I have my heart set on the flush mount location for these reasons;

I have owned previous boats with ram and dash mounted electronics, one of them was actually your boat with a dash mounted radar. I could not stand it. Hated it in fact. Darn near took a hammer and whacked it off. The radar screen killed my sight lines when sitting so I had to stand all the time. Looked red-neck, just like my first car, a ‘74 Oldsmobile Omega where I purchased a FM converter from Radio Shack that I bolted to the dash. To me, bolted-on dash items remind me of those ghetto punk kids who duck tape big stereo speakers under the rear window of their cars.

So safety and appearance are my two reasons why I will be flush mounting and not dash top bolting my chartplottter.

If I had my old 280 Sundancer back, I’d likely do something like you see in this photo then move the VHF radio lower on the helm or get a VHF radio that puts the guts out of sight under the dash and puts the controls on the mic button such as a Garmin VHF 315.

 

[Captn TJ]

Thank you for your feedback Captn TJ. But if I put the Chartplotter where the GoPro is located, where would I put my GoPro? Just kidding.

I replied about this earlier. In breef, I have my heart set on the flush mount location for these reasons;

I have owned previous boats with ram and dash mounted electronics, one of them was actually your boat with a dash mounted radar. I could not stand it. Hated it in fact. Darn near took a hammer and whacked it off. The radar screen killed my sight lines when sitting so I had to stand all the time. Looked red-neck stupid too, just like my first car, a ‘74 Oldsmobile Omega where I purchased a FM converter from Radio Shack that I bolted to the dash.

To me, bolted-on dash items look as dumb as those ghetto punk kids who duck tape big stereo speakers under the rear window of their cars. They also get in the way of safe driving sight lines. I understand mounting this way is easy, so easy = lazy.

So safety and appearance are my two reasons why I will be flush mounting and not dash top bolting my chartplottter.

If I had my old 280 Sundancer back, I’d likely do something like you see in this photo then move the VHF radio lower on the helm or get a VHF radio that puts the guts out of sight under the dash and puts the controls on the mic button such as a Garmin VHF 315.


View attachment 60028

Interestingly, I'm struggling with that now on my 280. The PO has it on the dash to the right. Since I need to replaced it (old raymarine C70 that has crapped out). I'll probably put a new garmin in the same location since I like a head's up display vs. looking down. Wish Searay though of an in dash location when they designed the boat. Sorry for the sideways photo.

 

[iBoat Skipper Doug]

Interestingly, I'm struggling with that now on my 280. The PO has it on the dash to the right. Since I need to replaced it (old raymarine C70 that has crapped out). I'll probably put a new garmin in the same location since I like a head's up display vs. looking down. Wish Searay though of an in dash location when they designed the boat. Sorry for the sideways photo.
View attachment 60036

The good thing is we both get to enjoy our beautiful Sea Ray’s and set them up to our personal preference.