Down to Bare Glass…what should I do?

[becnme]

Manufacturer recommendation...had a discussion with them about this.

4200 vs 5200 is basically same this but 5200 has 2× the mechanical bond strength. For this application 5200.

Not sure whu you guys are so opposed to 5200. Works good lasts long, and easily removed if ever needed.

West has a product to add to the epoxy that actually turns it into a barrier coat which makes it thicker too. Use the 5200!

 

[dtfeld]

West has a product to add to the epoxy that actually turns it into a barrier coat which makes it thicker too. Use the 5200!

Yes...West Systems 422, have some of that too.

 

[Spark600]

The holes are from the SeaBlazeX lights that were removed, and the holes will be filled and epoxy coated.

The new lights are held in with a retaining ring from the inside, so no new holes will be drilled.

I am in the market for under water lights, What brand and light are you installing that is held in with a retaining ring.

 

[dtfeld]

I am in the market for under water lights, What brand and light are you installing that is held in with a retaining ring.

4 of these were installed at some point by a PO. 2 were removed and the hole covered over with the SeaBlazeX. Not very secure IMO. I contacted Steve @ Aqualights and arranged for 2 new ones, and to have the 2 remaining lights sent back to be refurbished. Refurbished meant new glass lenses, seals, and Blue LED modules.

The office in here in GA. Made in the USA, or at least assembled

 

[Carpediem44DB]

I am with Lazydaze on the use of 5200 or any other product for that matter. Alot of products get recommended for various uses and many are overkill, creating time consuming issues down the road for future service. I see this in the aviation world all the time as well. Best practice dictates that one uses the best product for the intended use. 5200 and 4200 and in some cases, simple silicone sealant will do a perfectly adequate job for making a water tight seal. 5200 is a strong ADHESIVE/ sealant. If you do not need the added adhesion because the item that is being installed is mechanically secured, use a product that will provide adequate sealing. One of my problems in using the 5200/4200 for a small job is you buy a tube for 15 to 20 bucks, use 1/4 oz and seal the top. Go to use it 3 months later and the cap is permanently glued on and if you get it off the end is plugged. I end up poking a hole in the side for another use then tossing the remainder. In the big scale its only 20 bucks but still an un necessary waist if another sealant will work just as well.
It would be nice if 3M would sell these products in small single use patch sizes.
Bottom line is, use the right product for the intended result because you are educated about the subject.
Just my 2 cents
CD

 

[ttmott]

I am with Lazydaze on the use of 5200 or any other product for that matter. Alot of products get recommended for various uses and many are overkill, creating time consuming issues down the road for future service. I see this in the aviation world all the time as well. Best practice dictates that one uses the best product for the intended use. 5200 and 4200 and in some cases, simple silicone sealant will do a perfectly adequate job for making a water tight seal. 5200 is a strong ADHESIVE/ sealant. If you do not need the added adhesion because the item that is being installed is mechanically secured, use a product that will provide adequate sealing. One of my problems in using the 5200/4200 for a small job is you buy a tube for 15 to 20 bucks, use 1/4 oz and seal the top. Go to use it 3 months later and the cap is permanently glued on and if you get it off the end is plugged. I end up poking a hole in the side for another use then tossing the remainder. In the big scale its only 20 bucks but still an un necessary waist if another sealant will work just as well.
It would be nice if 3M would sell these products in small single use patch sizes.
Bottom line is, use the right product for the intended result because you are educated about the subject.
Just my 2 cents
CD

@dtfeld Dave do you need an adhesive or sealant? 4200/5200 are adhesives and will work great as an underwater sealant. So should the mechanical attachment come loose for the lights you would have the adhesive as a secondary means to prevent a water leak problem. These lights are considered permanent so I wouldn't hesitate using the 3M products. FYI I just removed the dinghy chock rails on the swim platform on my boat which were attached at SR with 5200 or similar; I sprayed BoatLife Release and they popped right off after a couple of hours. So, it isn't the end of the world to remove something bedded in 5200. But with that all said there are other products just as effective to bed and seal the lights for underwater service.

 

[kvduff]

Just a side note, I learned a few years ago to store the smaller tubes in the refrigerator. I’ve been on the same tube for over 3 years. Definitely a “hack” that helps.

I am with Lazydaze on the use of 5200 or any other product for that matter. Alot of products get recommended for various uses and many are overkill, creating time consuming issues down the road for future service. I see this in the aviation world all the time as well. Best practice dictates that one uses the best product for the intended use. 5200 and 4200 and in some cases, simple silicone sealant will do a perfectly adequate job for making a water tight seal. 5200 is a strong ADHESIVE/ sealant. If you do not need the added adhesion because the item that is being installed is mechanically secured, use a product that will provide adequate sealing. One of my problems in using the 5200/4200 for a small job is you buy a tube for 15 to 20 bucks, use 1/4 oz and seal the top. Go to use it 3 months later and the cap is permanently glued on and if you get it off the end is plugged. I end up poking a hole in the side for another use then tossing the remainder. In the big scale its only 20 bucks but still an un necessary waist if another sealant will work just as well.
It would be nice if 3M would sell these products in small single use patch sizes.
Bottom line is, use the right product for the intended result because you are educated about the subject.
Just my 2 cents
CD

 

[dtfeld]

I discussed sealant with Mfg'r. They insisted on 5200. That's what is made for, so that's what I have.

These are mechicallyy held in place at least until the 5200 cures.

 

[dtfeld]

Got the holes sanded, filled and coated with West System 105.