Downside of bypassing anchor windlass relay?

[Danny Troy]

My starboard switch panel on my 280 (soft-touch panel) is giving me problems. Specifically the anchor windlass sometimes doesn't power up. I replaced the windlass relay, but the problem persists. I bypassed the relay and it works fine, but only the footswitches. I can live with that, but I was wondering what the downside is to bypassing the relay. I would guess that power is going to the windlass control box at all times when bypassed. The likely problem is the switch panel, and even if I could find a replacement they can be over 1k! I did replace one of the two panels years ago, but I forgot which side it was. I do remember the dealer said that was the last unit and was lucky to have found it. It even had the wood grain cover. Any ideas?

 

[bobeast]

Rather than bypass the relay, I'd consider bypassing the switch that controls it. You'd need to temporarily wire a switch to the terminal that controls the relay. I don't know if your relay is controlled by the application of a ground or +12, so you'd need to figure that out first. On the occasion when it does power up, use a meter or test probe to determine the correct controlling polarity.

 

[Spark600]

You can not bypass the relay as the relay takes high amperage and converts it to low amperage.
The wires from the battery to the relay is probably # 8 or # 6 and the control wiring from the relay to the switch is probably # 16 or # 14
Best to do what bobeast said bypass, move or add a switch on the Control wiring side of the relay.

 

[Danny Troy]

Rather than bypass the relay, I'd consider bypassing the switch that controls it. You'd need to temporarily wire a switch to the terminal that controls the relay. I don't know if your relay is controlled by the application of a ground or +12, so you'd need to figure that out first. On the occasion when it does power up, use a meter or test probe to determine the correct controlling polarity.

Yes, this is what I am planning. In the last 6 weeks I added a standard rocker for my trim tabs, since those switches stopped working, which were on the port switch panel. I also added two rockers for my bilge blowers, also on the port panel. Luckily, the starter rocker is working fine on that panel. The problem is adding the switch for the windlass, adding it directly to the relay, only gives footswitch operation. No helm up/down switches will work. Since it's an intermittent problem (out on the boat today and it worked) I was wondering if I can add the switch and still keep the helm switch connected, for when it does work. It's a hokey setup, but I guess you sometimes have to make compromises as a boat ages.

As far as bypassing the relay, and I've heard others doing it without a problem, it's a simple matter of taking the heavy gauge cable off one side of the relay and connecting it to the other side, permanently making the high amp connection. It's basically like keeping the helm switch on at all times. I used it for a few days that way and didn't have any issues. You just have to remember to turn off the battery switch when leaving the boat. Wondering if it will wear out a part doing this for an extended period?

 

[bobeast]

Not sure how yours is wired, but basically if you hear a click when you touch those two heavy gage wires together, then there is a secondary relay or solenoid near your windlass which will remain energized at all times. That will eventually wear out that secondary relay or solenoid. I believe that's why there is an "arming" relay to begin with.

You should be able to get away with adding a secondary switch to the controlling input of the relay for those occasions where the helm switch doesn't work.

 

[Danny Troy]

Not sure how yours is wired, but basically if you hear a click when you touch those two heavy gage wires together, then there is a secondary relay or solenoid near your windlass which will remain energized at all times. That will eventually wear out that secondary relay or solenoid. I believe that's why there is an "arming" relay to begin with.

You should be able to get away with adding a secondary switch to the controlling input of the relay for those occasions where the helm switch doesn't work.

I didn't know about that secondary relay. I'll install the switch today, and leave the helm switch connected, using it as the primary switch. The one I install will be used when the helm isn't working.

 

[Danny Troy]

Just an update. I installed the new switch, adding the + & - leads to the existing leads on the relay. When I turned the switch on I was surprised to see the switch-pad indicator light illuminate at the helm. I also had control of the windlass from the helm. Used the boat again later in the day and sure enough the switch-pad light didn't light. No problem, since the windlass continued to work at the helm. So, my switch addition appears to be a near total success. Now to wait until the next soft-touch switch craps out!

 

[bobeast]

Just an update. I installed the new switch, adding the + & - leads to the existing leads on the relay. When I turned the switch on I was surprised to see the switch-pad indicator light illuminate at the helm. I also had control of the windlass from the helm. Used the boat again later in the day and sure enough the switch-pad light didn't light. No problem, since the windlass continued to work at the helm. So, my switch addition appears to be a near total success. Now to wait until the next soft-touch switch craps out!

Awesome news!