Dry Battery

F

Forever Mates

Member
Aug 3, 2014
56
Owen Sound Ont. Canada
Boat Info
1996-Sea Ray 270 Sundancer 7.4l Single Garmin echoMap 50s
Engines
Single 7.4l Mercruiser Bravo 111 Drive
Hello I leave both the starting battery and house (deep cycle) battery on at battery switch all summer to keep both charged. I have found that the deep cycle is dry and needed to be topped up with water when closing up for the winter. Should I be just leaving starting battery on and periodically switch house on to keep charged.Or is my charger /Inverter overcharging 1996 Sea Ray 270 Dancer.
 
Based on my experience you have a converter that makes 13 volts all the time that charges the batteries. It boiled the water out of them over time. I put in a converter/charger (120 volt output for plugs) that is also a smart charger IE three phase charger. Have not had any batteries boil to the point the plates are exposed any more.
 
My '99 260DA had a smart charger (although not as smart as newer ones, obviously). But it was a fine charger, stepping it's voltage down properly and even had a desulphation mode. It was a ProMariner Flyback 20. I'm not sure what was used in your boat (or even if it's still original). Everything was great until it started to bite the dust after 20 years of hard work - can't blame it for that. It was only having an issue on one of the leads - overcharging the battery it was hooked up to. The other battery was fine. Sounds similar to your experience. Call PM (if that's the brand you have) and ask them for the test/diagnostic procedure.

That being said, it's not uncommon to have to check and add distilled water once in a while on wet batteries. How dry was it?

FYI, you shouldn't need to leave your battery switch on to charge the batteries. The charger should be wired independent of the switch. Normally, you should do as you have been doing, though - leave the charger on all the time.
 
Last edited:
Forever Mates said:
Hello I leave both the starting battery and house (deep cycle) battery on at battery switch all summer to keep both charged. I have found that the deep cycle is dry and needed to be topped up with water when closing up for the winter. Should I be just leaving starting battery on and periodically switch house on to keep charged.Or is my charger /Inverter overcharging 1996 Sea Ray 270 Dancer.
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IS this a 10 year old charger? If so, its likely overcharging as it has no float/idle mode. I would consider upgrading the charger if its not a newer multi stage smart charger. if you do upgrade, you will want to wire the charger cable battery direct and not through the switch.
 
Wylie_Tunes said:
IS this a 10 year old charger? If so, its likely overcharging as it has no float/idle mode. I would consider upgrading the charger if its not a newer multi stage smart charger. if you do upgrade, you will want to wire the charger cable battery direct and not through the switch.
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As far as I can tell the pro Mariner 20 3 bank is the original charger, the boat is a 96, it is putting out 3-5 amps according to the gauge when operating with shore power and the yellow light stating dc volts available is lit. Is there a test to see if charger is shutting down when batteries are brought up to charge, Whenever we are at the boat the charger is always humming away lol
 
yes, the charger has been overcharging your batteries...

if the level of the electrolyte dropped below the top of the plates, you need new batteries..... sounds like you want a better charger too.

:eek:(
 
Forever Mates said:
As far as I can tell the pro Mariner 20 3 bank is the original charger, the boat is a 96, it is putting out 3-5 amps according to the gauge when operating with shore power and the yellow light stating dc volts available is lit. Is there a test to see if charger is shutting down when batteries are brought up to charge, Whenever we are at the boat the charger is always humming away lol
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Id start by seeking out the exact manual for that charger, making sure you get the correct series. It will describe its operating mode.

Next, you need to confirm whether or not the batteries are even able to reach a full charge. If not, even a smart charger will keep plugging along. A volt meter will allow you to test the charger, just dont let a bad battery fool you.
 
Thanks for your imput, I will first see if the charger is operating correctly, as the house battery was bought new in April, I am leading towards the charger as the problem. Thanks Again. Steve.
 
I had the same boat - '96 270 Sundancer. The charger you describe is a simple ferroresonant transformer with rectifier (it's not even filtered) that puts out a constant 13.8vrms which is way too much for long term storage. Why it is not boiling the water away on both batteries is a concern too, is the starting battery getting charged? Could be a popped breaker/blown fuse in the starting battery charging circuit.

Also, the charger is connected directly to the batteries (through fuses/circuit breakers) so the switch doesn't have to be on to charge, unless of course someone rewired the boat.

Replace with a modern smart charger and all should be well (after you figure out if/why the starting battery is not being charged.)

I would also consider replacing both batteries with the same type, grp 31 deep cycle is fine for both since it has enough cranking amps for the 454. Otherwise you risk overcharging one of the batteries, even with a smart charger.
 
Thanks so much Im looking at the Pro Mariner Pro Sport 20 2 Bank charger as I only have 2 Batteries. Hoping a good installation manual comes with it.
 
If the battery's internal resistance is not dropping when you are charging the battery because of a damaged or shorted plates it will continue to pull current and boil off the battery.The battery is what regulates the current when it is being charged.I would pull the battery and try charging with another charge to see if it is the battery or your boats charge that is the problem.
 
The Flyback DOES have multiple charging sequences (quick charge, float, condition/maintain, etc). But diagnose the charger before spending any money. See my note above or look in the manual (or google for it). Sometimes you can find old accessory manuals on SR's site, too.

Be sure the Prosport is approved for bilge use. The ProNautic is more of an "apples to apples" replacement (but newer technology, of course). I used the the ProNautic in my boat, FWIW.
 
The ProSport series marine chargers are sealed and ignition protected. 5 stage charging, battery type selection and distribute on demand charging on the dual and 3-bank chargers. Good value charger for most simple battery systems.
 
My plans are to take out old charger (20 years old) and replace it with a 110 receptacle, plug in new charger and mount close to original spot and still have the option to turn it off at breaker in the galley. Thats the plan at this time. I only have 2 batteries so would a 2 bank or should I go for 3 bank charger, not a huge price difference.
 
If you are comparing a 20a 2 to a 20a 3 bank to service only 2 batteries. 1) what size are the banks in terms of total Ah and 2) is one bank a dedicated house bank that gets depleted on a regular basis. The 3-bank would allow for charging the the bulk of the available output through circuits 2 and 3, as opposed to that same 20A capacity through only a single bank circuit.
 
we are generally plugged in at various ports but occasionally on the hook for maybe 2 nights max. We use a portable Honda 2000 if needed.
 
A receptacle CAN NOT be placed in a gas-engined boat. Possible "boom".

The ProNautic can send all of it's power through a single wire/circuit, or any combination there of. I'm not sure of the other one - have never used it.
 
I switch to house battery when away from shore power as to save one battery for starting. I have 2 deep cycle 31 series batteries
 
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