Navigation
Install the app
How to install the app on iOS
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
More options
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Dry Battery
- Thread starter Forever Mates
- Start date
Forever Mates
Member
- Aug 3, 2014
- 56
- Boat Info
- 1996-Sea Ray 270 Sundancer 7.4l Single Garmin echoMap 50s
- Engines
- Single 7.4l Mercruiser Bravo 111 Drive
Thank you I shall put in a proper junction box for the connection. I really want be able to use the breaker panel if at all possible. Thanks again for the heads up about sparks.
No problem!
You should be able to reuse the existing setup, no? Just cut the cord end off and hook it up the way the existing one is... no box required.
Just for reference... when you say "junction box", what are you thinking of in regards to connectors?
You should be able to reuse the existing setup, no? Just cut the cord end off and hook it up the way the existing one is... no box required.
Just for reference... when you say "junction box", what are you thinking of in regards to connectors?
Forever Mates
Member
- Aug 3, 2014
- 56
- Boat Info
- 1996-Sea Ray 270 Sundancer 7.4l Single Garmin echoMap 50s
- Engines
- Single 7.4l Mercruiser Bravo 111 Drive
I hope to solder and heat shrink tube the connections inside a plastic regular house junction box with plastic cover.
Forever Mates
Member
- Aug 3, 2014
- 56
- Boat Info
- 1996-Sea Ray 270 Sundancer 7.4l Single Garmin echoMap 50s
- Engines
- Single 7.4l Mercruiser Bravo 111 Drive
Are you suggesting joining new wire with plug cut off to the existing wire that has been removed from old charger (that comes from breaker panel) just with quick connects are what would be proper.
Are you suggesting joining new wire with plug cut off to the existing wire that has been removed from old charger (that comes from breaker panel) just with quick connects are what would be proper.
Wait, you're right. I still had the ProNautic in my head when I wrote "hook it up the way the existing one is". The ProNautic uses the existing wires (from the breaker) just the way the Flyback does. Yes, you'll need to splice/combine wires.
If you're skilled at soldering, sure. But the problem with soldering is that if even just a little too much solder is used, it wicks up too far into the wire and you end up with a very tight flex spot and it breaks/fails over time and creates a sparking event. Keep in mind that boat wiring (and regulations) are different than auto and home - LOT'S more vibration and enclosed areas where gas fumes can accumulate.
Believe it or not, good 'ol butt connectors (crimp) are perfectly fine. I use adhesive-lined and insulated butt connectors - sort of a "all-in-one" thing. With that, you don't need an electrical box - actually, you don't need it regardless - even if you just used plain butt connectors with no shrink tube. Although I would at least suggest electrical tape (but it's "required" for code). Just support the connector on both sides for "best" practice (this part is VERY important for soldered connections).
EDIT: I want to add that I've never used an accessory in a bilge where I had to cut a plug off and splice. I don't "think" there's anything wrong with it, but I would feel better if you asked this question of ProMariner - just to be sure.
Last edited:
Forever Mates
Member
- Aug 3, 2014
- 56
- Boat Info
- 1996-Sea Ray 270 Sundancer 7.4l Single Garmin echoMap 50s
- Engines
- Single 7.4l Mercruiser Bravo 111 Drive
Okie Dokie Your help has been very much appreciated,I will give it my best and look forward to properly charged batteries lol Steve.
