Engaging the throttle

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Member
Apr 23, 2008
143
Oxford, CT
Boat Info
2006 Searay Sport 205 w/ Monster Tower and Kicker Amp.
Towing w/ 2018 Mercedes GLE350
Engines
Merc 4.3L MPI Alpha (220hp)
Problem or normal?

So I've noticed that my boat requires me to jerk the throttle a bit more than my buddies when engaging it.

I have a 2006 Searay Sport 205 with the 4.3MPI motor and my buddy has a 2008 Sport 205 with the 5.0. Is there a difference in the tranny's on these two? I feel that I can ease his gear in a bit slower than I can mine. If I engage the throttle slowly it tends to grind. So I find myself quickly moving the throttle past the point, until I hear the gear clunk. Then I back off a bit if needed...
 
Problem or normal?

So I've noticed that my boat requires me to jerk the throttle a bit more than my buddies when engaging it.

I have a 2006 Searay Sport 205 with the 4.3MPI motor and my buddy has a 2008 Sport 205 with the 5.0. Is there a difference in the tranny's on these two? I feel that I can ease his gear in a bit slower than I can mine. If I engage the throttle slowly it tends to grind. So I find myself quickly moving the throttle past the point, until I hear the gear clunk. Then I back off a bit if needed...

Matt, you just need a small adjustment to the shift cable. The clunk with an Alpha is normal.
 
Matt, you just need a small adjustment to the shift cable. The clunk with an Alpha is normal.

Ya? Bill's boat is an alpha too, just makes less of a clunk and seems to engage easier and you can do it slower without the grinding.

So its jsut the cable?? That would be awesome!
 
Yeah, the Alpha loves to "clunk"

Make sure your idle rpm's are correct also. That will have an affect on engaging also.

Still sounds like a simple adjustment.
 
it seems to idle low, if not too low. Any insight on how I would go about adjusting it?
 
http://www.sterndrives.com/supplies/mdtips02.html



Cable Adjustment:


Remove the dash cable from the shift plate.
Adjust the stud in the slot to the bottom of the slot.
Push the drive cable inwards while someone locks the prop.
It is VERY important to make sure the prop is fully locked.
Measure the drive cable so you have a 6" distance between the hole at the end
and the brass barrel. (center to center!)
Adjust the brass barrel so it measures 6" center to center. Don't move it!
I sure hope that prop was locked in forward (the reverse direction).

Place the drive cable onto the shift plate assembly being carefull not to move your 6" adjustment!
Now you have the drive in forward AND the shift plate is in forward too!
Adjust the plastic barrel on the dash cable to match the plate studs so the cable will go right on
without moving the shift plate or the drive cable.
Install the nuts and the cotter pins.

You can now do a static shift test.
Place the control in forward. The prop should lock in one direction and ratchet in the other.
Take a notice of the ratchet tension.
Now go into neutral. The prop should turn both ways free and no noise should be heard.

Shift into reverse and feel the ratchet tension. Also make sure you get a good "lock" in the other direction.
IF the reverse is weak in the ratcheting, then adjust the stud in the lever slide on the shift plate.

The final test is how it shifts in the water!

Just go out and have some fun.
IF you need to adjust the shift, ONLY adjust the DASH CABLE BARREL.
 

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