Engine coupler questions

[Tri County Trail]

Are all (like in the picture couplers) with the extended snout with the zerk fitting
Steel or are any aluminum?
Also anyone have a good picture of the splines looking into it from drive side.
I believe there is like a 1" recess until the splines start.
I am thinking I need to clean up some damage from an alignment bar being driven into it to far with a hammer.

 

[scoflaw]

Most are aluminum. impossible to drive the bar in too far the coupler has a sealed end. How far away from seated does the drive stop? Does it engage the splines at all?

 

[Tri County Trail]

Most are aluminum. impossible to drive the bar in too far the coupler has a sealed end. How far away from seated does the drive stop? Does it engage the splines at all?

I was driving my new gimbal bearings in with the alignment tool and the driver (that you drill and set depth I had it set for my old boat and it allowed the chamfered part of the bar to drive into the splines. The splines of the shaft are Not engaging with the coupler now when I go to install drives. Bravo 3 496 mag engine. I think I blurred up the coupler when driving in Gimbel bearing.

 

[scoflaw]

Not how I do it. I don't engage the splines seating the bearing. I use the bar and the attachment to seat bearing until it's all the way in then I align the gimble race of the bearing to the coupler.

 

[Tri County Trail]

Not how I do it. I don't engage the splines seating the bearing. I use the bar and the attachment to seat bearing until it's all the way in then I align the gimble race of the bearing to the coupler.

I do also the same BUT the hole location was off about 1/2" so the gimbel bearing was about 1/2" from fully seated and allowed the bar to contact the splines at the 60degree chamfer at the slight step up in size after the pilot is in the splines. Royal mess up believe me. I noticed the alignment bar being bounced back but a couple more wacks and burred up the splines.

 

[Tri County Trail]

Anyway I believe it is the heavy duty version 2005 496 and it is steel so it should be ok if I can clean up beginning of splines.

 

[scoflaw]

Ok so seat the bearing and clean up the splines.

 

[Nater Potater]

That style "should" be steel. Typically, the aluminum units are a big knob off the end of the crank without the obvious straight section like you see in your first picture.

 

[Scott215]

It is very possible to tape a file to a screwdriver or broom handle and file a splines I did it on mine. Very visible without gimbal bearing in the way

 

[Tri County Trail]

It is very possible to tape a file to a screwdriver or room handle and file a splines I did it on mine

Going Sat morning got a whole bag lol.
Also taking a used driveshaft with bar welded to it to check it without wrestling with the drive.

 

[Scott215]

Sound like a good plan please take you time and look very closely at the couple with a good flash light

 

[Tri County Trail]

So defiantly dinged up beginning of splines with alinement tool. Used a hacksaw blade taped to a threaded rod to clear out spline then triangle file to clean up splines with gimbal and everything still attached. Then used a old drive shaft and tapped it in untill it went in smooth. had to clean up leading edge of drive shaft also as it was dinged up also from trying to install. Got very lucky.

 

[Tri County Trail]

Finally got it all back together. All new parts except for the transom plate. Both drives ready to go except for the digital trim limits. Could set it according to instructions. Will try with rinda laptop once its in the water. First have to wash and wax it.