I've been considering taking the boat (06 185 sport) off of the trailer and supporting it on stands over the winter - fiberglass needs some attention, as does the trailer - and I'm trying to find out how this is accomplished, without heavy equipment and complicated rigging. Everything I have read so far sounds pretty sketchy. Does anyone have any experience with this?
Ever put your boat up on stands?
- Thread starter JMG
- Start date
Rusted Nut
Member
Roller or bunk trailer
Sea Ray bunk trailer.
Thornton69
Well-Known Member
- Sep 15, 2014
- 1,149
- Boat Info
- 1981 245 SDC
2021 Solar 420
- Engines
- '97 5.7 Bravo 2
'20 Merc 25 EFI Jet
Drop the trailer hitch as low as you can to raise the transom. Bock the transom at both chines. Raise the trailer hitch and you'll be half way there. You will more than likely have to support the keel in a few different positions to raise the bow as you pull the trailer out. Try a search on youtube or something. It's pretty easy. I just lift the bow with a crane from the eye and drive away once the chines are blocked.So the idea, I take it, is to place jackstands of some sort around the boat and lift it off of the blocking after the trailer is pulled out? I mean, to provide better access to the bottom.
Crane. THAT would be handy.
Crane. THAT would be handy.
Thornton69
Well-Known Member
- Sep 15, 2014
- 1,149
- Boat Info
- 1981 245 SDC
2021 Solar 420
- Engines
- '97 5.7 Bravo 2
'20 Merc 25 EFI Jet
I don't have stands. Prefer blocking as its grabs what it is supporting and is softer than the gel coat. Sorry, thought you were just interested in the getting it off the trailer part.
Oh, sorry, just noticed your pic. That's it? Is the boat stable with only one block under the bow like that? I mean, obviously it is, but it just looks like it might tip.
Rusted Nut
Member
I backed my up on a 2x6 to get the 1 1/2” rise. Blocked the transom and keel as needed. Deflated the tires to drop it on the blocking and pulled out keep three points on the trans and move blocking to allow trailer to be removed. Cut up plywood pads as shims
Thornton69
Well-Known Member
- Sep 15, 2014
- 1,149
- Boat Info
- 1981 245 SDC
2021 Solar 420
- Engines
- '97 5.7 Bravo 2
'20 Merc 25 EFI Jet
It is solid. This is an older pic and probably just shy of 7000 lbs. The drive and engine were removed and replaced while on blocks. It was originally cribbed in the back too but I had repositioned the blocking for gelcoat work.
sbw1
Well-Known Member
- Oct 10, 2006
- 8,189
- Boat Info
- This is listed in my signature
- Engines
- This is listed in my signature
Yeah, I'm getting a much clearer picture now. Actually never thought about it before, which is one of the reasons I'm on this forum. Thank you.
JVM225
Well-Known Member
For the 185 you can do it easily with a couple of jacks, an assistant and some blocking.
I’m not a huge fan of stands but if you decide to use them in the stern beware that they can tip while you are moving the trailer forward. That’s why I don’t like them back there.
Jack up the back of the boat a couple of inches off the trailer and block up both sides of the stern and release that jack so the weight of the boat is on the two stacks of blocking in the back.
Jack the boat of the trailer further forward but just behind one of the trailer cross braces.
Direct assistant to pull trailer up slowly until the next brace approaches the jack.
Jack the boat up just aft of that next brace and as soon as it is holding the weight of the boat you remove the first jack.
Repeat as necessary until there are no more braces aft of the Jack.
Put another stack of blocking centerline to support the front of the boat with the bow slightly higher than the stern so rainwater will drain.
Some would leave it on the three sets of blocking since it’s a fairly small and light boat.
But I like to support the boat side to side too.
You can either do this with a set of stands on either side of the boat that are even with the stack holding up the bow.
Or of you don’t have stands you can use two more stacks of blocking (one on each side) in place of the stands. Once all three stacks are in place you could run a 4x4 across them (shim as needed to make sure the 4x4 is level and tight under the weight of the boat and then cut two short pieces of 2x4 on an angle on one end and use them as wedges between 4x4 and each side of the hull.
Secure the 2x4 wedges in place by either nailing or screwing them in to the 4x4.
I’m not a huge fan of stands but if you decide to use them in the stern beware that they can tip while you are moving the trailer forward. That’s why I don’t like them back there.
Jack up the back of the boat a couple of inches off the trailer and block up both sides of the stern and release that jack so the weight of the boat is on the two stacks of blocking in the back.
Jack the boat of the trailer further forward but just behind one of the trailer cross braces.
Direct assistant to pull trailer up slowly until the next brace approaches the jack.
Jack the boat up just aft of that next brace and as soon as it is holding the weight of the boat you remove the first jack.
Repeat as necessary until there are no more braces aft of the Jack.
Put another stack of blocking centerline to support the front of the boat with the bow slightly higher than the stern so rainwater will drain.
Some would leave it on the three sets of blocking since it’s a fairly small and light boat.
But I like to support the boat side to side too.
You can either do this with a set of stands on either side of the boat that are even with the stack holding up the bow.
Or of you don’t have stands you can use two more stacks of blocking (one on each side) in place of the stands. Once all three stacks are in place you could run a 4x4 across them (shim as needed to make sure the 4x4 is level and tight under the weight of the boat and then cut two short pieces of 2x4 on an angle on one end and use them as wedges between 4x4 and each side of the hull.
Secure the 2x4 wedges in place by either nailing or screwing them in to the 4x4.
Every winter to answer the OP's question. Blocks under the center of the hull, and jackstands all around. They put the boat in the garage on the trailer, lower onto the blocks with jackstands (or blocks as you have in the picture) in the rear corners, lower the trailer (or for you, deflate the wheels) remove trailer, then additional stands.
hillsideshortleg
Active Member
- Feb 5, 2012
- 254
- Boat Info
- 92 Express Cruiser /89 Sea Ray 280 Sundancer
- Engines
- 489s / 350's Mercruiser drives
I bought 2 sets of landing gears or what ever you call them that support the front of a large semi trailer. I removed the wheels and welded the bases onto 4 large plates and welded a flange on the upper part that extends under the boat at the lifting points. I was able to lift our boat off the trailer. Well that's as far as I got. then I set it down and hauled them down into the successful pile!!!! in the junk yard. Reason number 10023 why I am broke.
Thanks for all the information. I said jackstands because what I have seen before, in local boatyards, was only given a cursory glance at the time. What is now apparent is that keel and transom blocks are the main support and, as has been stated, jackstands are used to provide additional stability. But, the main area of my hull that needs attention is along the keel. It turns out (total novice here, first boat and all) that two of the crossmember pads on the trailer are missing, and I surmise the previous owner got a little fast and loose coming on and off the trailer. There's some gouging of the gelcoat about half the length of the keel. Would I just reposition the keel block(s) repeatedly as each area is fixed?
You don't need keel blocks for your boat (just the bow). As a few mentioned above, just 3 points of contact are needed... each stern/chine and one under the bow keel, before it starts sloping upwards. First time I did this was with a boat about your size and I was 15. Did it just for fun while my dad was at work. He came home... looked at it, looked at me... and just said "Alright, well, put it back when you're done". If I did it when I was 15, I'm sure you'll be fine.
I don't block the bow keel till the boat is off the trailer. After blocking the stern, I use a floor jack and just keep letting the boat down onto the bunks to reposition the jack. Goes a little faster that way. Once you've done it a few times, it's a 30 minute job.
The bow keel block... yes, you can reposition that as needed. Or, just place it where you won't need to reposition it. You can add boat stands, if it makes you feel better, though. Other than your pocket book, it certainly can't hurt.
Do this on solid ground.
I don't block the bow keel till the boat is off the trailer. After blocking the stern, I use a floor jack and just keep letting the boat down onto the bunks to reposition the jack. Goes a little faster that way. Once you've done it a few times, it's a 30 minute job.
The bow keel block... yes, you can reposition that as needed. Or, just place it where you won't need to reposition it. You can add boat stands, if it makes you feel better, though. Other than your pocket book, it certainly can't hurt.
Do this on solid ground.
