Exhaust Bellow

Luckydogs

New Member
Mar 5, 2007
348
Lake Texoma, Texas
Boat Info
2003 3870 Express
Engines
Twin 8.1S (hogs)
One of my exhaust bellows popped off from the transom end and it's been a PITA trying to get it back on. Is this a job that will require the outdrive to be removed and if not, does anyone have any experience/tips to reattach it.

Thanks
 
You need to remove the sterndrive to reinstall the bellows. It's also a little easier if you remove the hinge pins so that the gimbal housing floats rather than just pivots. But you need a special tool to remove the hinge pins. I gave mine away last year.

When you reinstall the bellows, ensure that the grounding clips are in place. The ground clips are small stainless steel pieces that attach to the end of the bellows, like a paper clip. The clip ensures that the hose clamp is grounded so that it does not corrode. Also you need to use a good amount of bellows adhesive. Coat both mating surfaces, let dry, then assemble. Easier if you have small hands and can reach inside the bellows, otherwise, consider investing in the bellows expanding tool.

Best regards,
Frank
 
Thanks fc! I think I will try and reinstall w/out removing the outdrive as the gimbal side is the only one that came off and the bell housing side is still attached. I attempted yesterday and I though I adit on there until I raised the lower unit to find out it came off again' this was due to not being able to tighten the clamp tight enough. I scanned through the manual and I didn't realize that there was a easy access hole on the housing to access the clamp with a long screwdriver. I will get the required grease and clamps and try to maneuver back on.
 
Instead of a screwdriver try a 1/4" drive rachet wrench with a ling extension and the right size socket.
 
For what its worth, removing the drive is rather simple and can be done in about 15 minutes and the seal kit to re-install is fairly inexpensive.
It will make it MUCH easier
 
this was due to not being able to tighten the clamp tight enough. I scanned through the manual and I didn't realize that there was a easy access hole on the housing to access the clamp with a long screwdriver. I will get the required grease and clamps and try to maneuver back on.

Don't forget the bellows adhesive. If I remember correctly the inside of the sealing collar of the bellows has a rib which pops into a groove in the metal when the bellows is properly seated. If you've got everything positioned properly and the clamp pretty tight, it should stay. Never had one pop on my previous boats.


Instead of a screwdriver try a 1/4" drive rachet wrench with a ling extension and the right size socket.

Good idea. Hose clamp screws are generally 5/16".

Best regards,
Frank
 
Last edited:
Don't forget the bellows adhesive. If I remember correctly the inside of the sealing collar of the bellows has a rib which pops into a groove in the metal when the bellows is properly seated. If you've got everything positioned properly and the clamp pretty tight, it should stay. Never had one pop on my previous boats.




Good idea. Hose clamp screws are generally 5/16".

Best regards,
Frank

Frank, you are on the money regarding the rib, groove and the yellow bellows adhesive. All has to be right on.

Lucky Dog, do yourself a favor and pull the drive. As stated above it's not that big a task. Remember one of Murphy's Laws:

"There's never time to do it right but there's always time to do it over."
 
You do not have to remove the drive to install the exhaust bellows. I know this because I have done it twice. You do need a 1/4" drive ratchet with a 6-8" extension and a 5/16" socket as noted above. First you need to raise the drive to the trailor position and install the transom side first. There is a hole drilled on the left side of the drive (viewed from rear) for the ratchet extension to pass through. Make sure you have the stainless clamp already in position and facing the right direction. Connecting to the entering side of the drive is a bit trickier. It helps if the weather is warm to make the bellows more pliable. If not some hot water works to soften it. Start by lowering the drive down to a near perpendicular attitude. Not much room for a second pair of hands, so I take a small piece of nylon twine and and tie it around one of the valleys in the acordian shaped bellows towards the rear. Tie a piece of twine to each side of the initial piece to provide a way to stretch the bellows back to meet the oval shaped section on the drive. I've done this alone but a second person makes it easier. Once you have it butted up against the male section of the drive you need to use a screw driver to stretch the round bellows around the oval fitting. Then just tighten the clamp. Might be a good idea to use some of that bellows adhesive. This job takes a bit of patience but is doable without removing the drive.
 
Alright, I'm going to try one more time at re-installing the bellow to the bell housing w/out removing the outdrive. If this doesn't work I may replace the bellow with the exhuast tube; has anyone replaced their bellows with the tubes?
 
I had one of my bellows come loose and just decided to leave it off. I may take the other side off as well as I like the way the exhaust sounds with out it on. You can get the tube for about $35 if you decide to do that.
 
I have used the tubes on both my bravo 3 and a previous boat with an alpha 1. I have not really noticed it being that much louder especially when at the dock my outdrive is down and the tube is engaged with the outdrive. Just my experience....

Mark
 
Quick question ... what is the hose clamp size for the bravo3 exhaust bellows and are they the same size for the transom and outdrive flange?

Thanks!!
 
Do you really need the exhaust bellows?
 
??? I wouldn't ask if I didnt need them,right?? With two little kids you dont want all the extra exhaust fumes around the transom on a deck boat and there are SIGNIFICANTLY more without the bellows. Full bellows on a bow rider or deck boat is a no brainer ... unless you are a sniffer ...
 

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