Extracting a windlass motor

adamsse5225

New Member
Aug 26, 2009
11
Cheasapeake Bay
Boat Info
280 Sundancer 2004
Engines
496 Merc BravoIII
04 280 dancer - windlass motor has given me fits for awhile and finally stopped working althogether. I'm convinced I could get the motor repaired if I could just figure out how to pull it. The marina wants $2500+ to replace the whole unit. I can't find any instructions on how to disassemble the windlass but I'm assuming others have done so. Can anyone tell me how to get at that thing?
 
Adam,

Do a search on windlass and posts by me. I have posted several times on the topic with pictures.

First thing to do is to contact Imtra (imtra.com) directly by telephone. Their web store only has a partial listing of the parts inventory. They are the US importer of Lofrans and main supply of parts. Their customer service is first rate. They can help you correctly diagnose the problem.

Do this before you start removing stuff, because it is a major PITA to re-assemble, and the last thing you want to do is have to re-assemble stuff that didn't need to be removed! It is possible that the control box may of failed. That is substantially cheaper than a new motor, and on your boat is an easy fix.

Biggest issue is access. I found by tying the boat up to my dock with the bow tight against the dock, and the stern hanging out I could stand on the dock and work through the anchor locker hatch. I also took the hatch cover off which made things easier. Some folks have suggested removing the mirror above the v-berth. I looked at that but could not see how to get that panel down without having to remove the entire v-berth shelves and cushion bolsters.

Henry
 
I have taken my motor off numerous times and it is really not difficult. 2 8mm nuts is all you are going to remove on the top and bottom of the motor. Then carefully slide it out from the gears. Be careful not to lose the key. Obviously take care when removing the wiring and note how to replace them. I found that the job is much easier working on the top nut if you turn around and face the rear of your boat and use your left hand to work on it. The bottom one can be access facing the fron with the anchor locker in front/under you. Oh.. and watch that damn stainless steel hatch latch - I scraped my head multiple times in the same spot!

Call imtra first. My problem was bad brushes. Not too much money to fix and they are very good re customer service. They actually seem to want to keep sea ray owners happy...
 
when henryboyd helped me fix my windlass problem recently it turned out to be cabling. i spent hours like a contortionist working on it and i was really pleased that i didnt have to pull the motor. but if i had had to i couldve done it. you really need to have supple joints to do any work in there. good luck - let us know how it works out.
 
When I bought my 280 three years ago, my windlass was inoperative and the culprit was believed to be the motor. I bought a new motor which was an updated 500w motor. Well, as it turns out the problem was not the motor as I had it bench tested and come to find out the wiring was a jacked up. I did all the work myself and got it working with the original motor (so i have an extra if you need it) and found it rather easy with the exception of the working space. You will have to remove the control box and loosen up the bolts to the cleat to remove the motor. Also, removing the control box makes it easier to do all the wiring. let me know if you are intersted in the spare motor.
 

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